Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The tiller on my new-to-me boat was so badly delaminated that I had decided to throw it away. I read a post where someone mentioned that a new tiller was not expensive, so if a first fix attempt didn't work, just buy a new one.
The PO had suggested that I just gorilla-glue the handle back together. Having never used gorilla glue, I thought it would be worth a shot. But having never used gorilla glue, I didn't totally trust it either.
So I decided to strengthen the regluing by inserting 3/8" dowels at opposing 45 degree angles into the handle every 4 - 6 inches along its length. This way, the opposing angles of the dowels would provide extra holding power against mother nature's desire to delaminate my tiller again.
Geez I wonder if I could repair my pfd with bubble gum and fishing line? The answer is it might work cosmetically, but far from reliable when I needed it to get me out of a jam.
Looks like you've done a nice job on that tiller. Having been victimized by a broken tiller that I 'fixed' - though admitedly not as well as you have - I still think it would be a good idea to have a spare, new tiller.
Laminated tillers require regular maintenance. When my boat was new, the new tiller de-laminated within one year. The best solution is to take it home each winter and give it a fresh coat of varnish. Your repair, using dowels, is a great idea, and, if you worked glue into all the separated places, as it appears you did, the tiller should be as strong as new.
I finally solved the maintenance problem with my laminated tiller by fabricating a replacement out of solid mahogany. I made it somewhat thicker than the original, assuming that it wouldn't have the strength of a laminated tiller, and selected a piece of mahogany that had the grain running in a curve at the point where the tiller curved, to ensure strength at that point. That tiller lasted without any problems until I sold the boat.
I was down at the marina last night checking on my anchor lines after a recent storm, and completely forgot to take a picture of the finished tiller handle to post here. This weekend I won't forget. Anyway, thanks for your responses everyone. I guess time will be the judge of whether the repair is as good (or better) than new - or not! I'd like to see a picture of Steve's mahogany tiller and see how the grain runs along the curve - that sounds fascinating. For mine, I could see that each of the wood strips were solid and had not been damaged by water - the delamination was simply due to failure of the glue. New glue was eas to apply, the varnish will keep the water out, and the dowels provide a physical barrier to further separation. As cat30 mentioned, I am hoping that the turks heads and cockscombing will add additional strength to the tiller handle. I need to get that picture up - and then remember to post an update at end of summer so we all know if the whole thing even worked! Thanks again everyone. This is a GREAT community.
I think it was pointed out on another forum that wheelbarrow handles are often made of Mahoghany, and come in pairs which can be laminated into a large enough block to cut a tiller from with only a single lamination. Not sure if this would make a better or worse tiller - would it split/check and fail earlier, or be less prone to failure than a traditional tiller with multiple laminations.
There are some advantages to laminated wood such as strength, weight, durability, and aesthetics. I've read some great articles on laminates vs solids, steaming versus thin strip laminating, etc in several carpentry magazines and canoe building forums.
Laminated wood is typtically stronger than solid wood especially when the wood grains are run at different angles to each other. This also increases the durability of the tiller because a solid piece of wood is more susceptible to warping over time due to grain patterns in any single piece of wood (unless as mentioned above, a piece with ideal grain patterns is selected.) A good glue between the layers of wood will also often have more bonding strength than a piece of solid wood the same thickness and usually be lighter. Thin strip laminates can also be made into curved shapes without steaming. But my favorite benefit of laminated wood is the varying wood colors (teak, mahogany, white ash, etc) which really look great varnished.
One down side of laminates is that they are less wasteful. Thin laminate strips allow more of the wood to be used. Ok - that's great from an environmental perspective - but opens the possibility of some inferior scraps being used somewhere in your tiller.
Hmm, this makes me want to build my own tiller handle...
I would also like to see the how the tiller came out. It's great you were able to work this project. Nothing like appreciating/using the finished product and you use it every time you go sailing.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.