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Replacement Cabin Tables

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/20/2008 : 05:41:30

I am starting to consider my future mod for my cabin table. I like keeping my bunk extension most times in position , though, I can easily store it. But with the bunk extension up, I lose the space for the support leg to sit on the wood bilge cover. I also do not like the long table and the fact that you have to raise it off it's stored position and then put it into the metal supports on the bulkhead wall. So, I am considering a replacement table and do not want to modify the original table in case I ever want to reinstall it. I want to utilize a shorter table that is permanently hinged on the bulkhead (a swing down one which I can construct from a duplicate OEM table or a similar one.)

So, where do you get a replacement table or.....potential similar constructed ones other than making one from scratch ...which I may do anyway ? (By the way...building from ground zero....Frank H has a nice one - His latest wood table mod.)

By the way...I am considering NO support leg but possibly supporting the far end of the table with a wire to the side of the cabin top...there is a way I can do that. Okay...probably will get criticism on this idea...but that is nothing new. I survived the comments on the bunk extension...and I like to consider some things out of the box (but still in the cabin) !

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 05/20/2008 05:43:16

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 07:36:12

Larry,

Before committing to the cable, you might want to consider a folding leg, similar to the type on the dinette model. It folds up and locks out of the way.

Edited by - on

cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 07:41:01

I am just finishing up the modification to my cabin table. I have a traditional cabin and also got tired having to lift it in/out of the brackets. I did cut the table down, however, by taking off about 14 inches. To mount it to the bulkhead, I built a magazine rack/shelf as the support. I should have it finished this weekend and am planning to post pictures.

Since you want to not use the original table, I would suggest using it for a template and you can trace around it, then cut it to length. I did keep the fold down leg, but had to shorten it a little because I also wanted to lower the table in the cabin. I always felt like it was too high anyway.

Edited by - cat1951 on 05/20/2008 07:41:28

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 08:19:40

This support is very strong

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 18:32:31

Don, Mike, Frank:

I will take a look at the dinette model folding leg if I can find a good photo of it and see if it is workable for me. My thought was that I would forgo a support leg to the floor because I wanted a table that would be functional if I decided to leave my extended bunk installed or not. Since the extended bunk is flush with the mast column, it means a support leg would not be under the table but have to be on the side of it to clear the bunk and that would mean the support leg would be sticking out into the passage-way. It's doable....but thought if I could work the support another way. I did favor Mike's approach which basically is to keep the original table and cut it down so it can still be stored on the bulkhead and be a hinged swing down style. Frank's latest table version looks great. But the support angled from the bulkhead wall...may interfere with my extended bunk and especially if I had a slightly larger table sort of like what Mike described by shaving off ~14" from the existing table.

I figured I would mull this over during the spring/summer and then take a stab at it as my Fall/Winter project if I nail down what I want to do. Somewhere on the web (ie. DIY, Gold Old Boat, etc) about a year or so ago, I saw a table mod that utilized a cable attached to the cabin top. I looked over the main cabin top (not the pop top but the cabin top directly adjacent where the gasket is located) and there is a way that I could experiment with a cable. So, I am also considering this approach because it would eliminate a support leg which removes an interference from under or alongside the table.

I guess my question is: If I wanted to experiment with an OEM Table but not use mine, then where do you get a spare/replacement table ? Catalina Direct does not seem to sell them. I could make one but the OEM has a fomica type top and has the right width for the table and flipped over extension.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 19:41:11

I never cut mine down because then I would end up with a shorter ugly heavy table. My newest table is the top of a $35 end table on ebay, go for nice wood.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4312 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 21:21:22

Larry,

What about some sort of light weight aluminum tubes similar to the braces used on powerboats to brace the windshield? Mount a clip to the roof of the cabin and the top of the table top. With the correct type of fitting on the end of the tube you could just snap them into the clips top and bottom. Light weight and easily removed yet very sturdy.

Maybe something like this with different ends -->> WM Part #'s 277676, #424319, #199598, or #4235164 with longer tubing?

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2008 : 22:34:44

Gary,

Yep...a tube would work ! Though, a tube would probably work best if only directly vertical which means attaching it to the undersise of the pop top. Most times, I do not open the pop top. Then again, it is just those times when you sleep overnight that their is temptation to open the pop top and then ...well I think a tube would only work well with the pop top closed. The other thing is that the attachment point on the pop top when not using the table, may be a spot where if you grazed the fitting/attachment point with your head it may get scraped.

Frank,

I did not realize you used another table to construct your table. I assumed you built it from scratch ! Real wood is appealing. The OEM table has the extension for those sitting on the opposite seat cushion...but buying a a table similar or exact to the OEM table is likely to cost a lot if even able to find one.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2008 : 06:41:11

Larry,

If you like the tube idea, put a telescoping piece inside it with a pin. Pop-top down, tube collapsed and pin in lower position. Pop-top up, tube extended, pin in upper position. This is just an idea, but I don't see it as being all that difficult to do.

(Personally I like my big heavy ugly table, just not th eway it attaches to the wall, and I haven't built up a long enough laundry list to put in another order to CD...

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4312 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2008 : 21:44:21

Larry,

What Prospector said OR two different length tubes. One up, one down.

A piece of tape or maybe a tennis ball cut in half with a pin through it would eliminate the scratched head issue.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4312 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2008 : 19:21:15

Larry,

Looking at the picture of your solar panel in the General section of this forum I noticed a tube that appears to be holding up the outboard end of your panel. That looks similar to what I was suggesting for your table support to the cabin overhead.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2008 : 23:32:07

I would say that there are a number of methods to potentially support the table - A cable or telescopic tube to the cabin top or possibly a support leg to the cabin floor. My thought is that for now, I am going to first look into the replacement table before I lock into a support method. I may wind up trying a number of support mock-ups before deciding on which one works best for the table.

As far as a replacement table, it would be easiest for me to just use the original...and then cut it down to size/length. But in case I botch the job or decide later that I want to re-install the original table, I am going to keep the original table intact and store it so it can be re-used if ever I want to go back to it. Options for a replacement table:
1) Obtain an exact duplicate to the original table - But from who ? Catalina Direct does not sell it. Benefit of using a duplicate is that it already has the fold out extension with the long hinge, so only have to cut down the length and table work pretty much done.
2) Check out other sailboat Mfr tables and see if they have one that is workable and can be obtained - That is hard to check out for one that is appropriately sized and obtainable.
3) Buy an end table, etc and modify for use on the boat. Maybe...but right now want to incorporate the fold out extension and that then complicates finding a suitable donor table. Also, some of these tables are very thick.
4) Possibly buy a teak marine table and cut to size, buy a long hinge and make the fold out extension. Possible...and expensive.
5) Possibly buy a teak grate kit or make a teak grate table from teak wood (or out of oak). Still need to make a fold-out extension. Teak/grate table is nautical style but grate allows potential for food to fall through...still...sounds interesting, nautical, lighter but....a lot of woodworking involved. Hmmm...challenging project to work on ---That is both a positive and negative consideration depending on what you think about projects.

Edited by - OLarryR on 05/24/2008 23:34:16

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 07:37:09

Although not a Traditional model, I made a new table out of 1/2" teak plywood and a epoxied that to a piece of 3/8" okoume I had lying around. That gave me 7/8" thick table. I edged it with teak strips and curved the end. It's hard to see the curve in the end of this picture.
The table is very light compared to the original table. The original table was that fake teak laminate stuff on 1" thick particle board.
Nobody needs a teak table, but they sure look nice.
If it were me, I'd make a new table in a pair of seconds. Either teak veneer or I'd use the new Wilsonart High Definition laminates. They are really beautiful. They have some stone looking laminates that are really nice. You could also buy a box of laminate flooring and build a table.
I would use okoume because it's light and strong. Epoxy a few pieces together to get the thickness you want and edge band it and it will look great.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 08:31:21

Dan (Happy D),

Okay...you got my interest ! I would add something like you are suggesting to my list of ways to go with the table. Where do you go to look/consider Teak Plywood, the teak strips and/or the teak laminates ?

I like the wood look...going with teak plywood maybe okay. What do you think about attaching the fold-out extension to plywood ? The way that long hinged bracket is attached on the original table is on the edge sides of the wood - That is generally not a strong area for plywood. I could eliminate the foldout extension and reduce my work effort considerably but then those sitting on the other seat cushion have a longer way to reach to the table - That is why I was considering still going with a fold-out extension and a solid wood edge would probably be best to attach that hinge....I may get away with attaching the hinge to the plywood... By the way...do they have the teak plywood in greater than 1/2" thickness ?

You know...come to think of it...I have bedroom furniture all out of teak....but it must be teak plywood as well. Looks great ! Got it many , many years ago at SCAN Furniture - Scandanavian furniture. In fact, I have a dining room table out of the stuff as well ! Maybe I should cut up my dining room table ! It's for a worthwhile cause !!

I like your idea of using the plywood...other than searching the web for considering it...do you have suggested websites/mfrs to consider ?

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 09:29:50

Dan,

What you are talking about ...similar to this:
http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/teak_veneer_marine_plywood.htm#3/4%20Teak%20Veneer%20Plywood%202%20Sides%20-%20Square%20Foot%20Prices

I will check out this further....like your suggestion !

Do you have a photo of your installed table ? Like to see how it looks.
By the way....I checked out my dining room table - Yes ! I want that finish for a boat table......Now can I just get that dining room table into the garage and up onto my radial arm saw without my wife seeing.....then how do I explain the missing section in the dining room table ? Maybe if I just use the leaf extension...she won't notice that ? LOL

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 09:31:08

I bought my Teak Plywood from Public Limber in Detroit. Pricey stuff. I made my mew bulkheads out of the plywood and bought enough to make the table.
As far as attaching a hinge, are you talking about a piano hinge?
If that's the case, I would build that table out of plywood and glue a 1" wide edge where the hinge would screw to. That provides good holding power for the screws and provides a sturdier edge. I would veneer the top with teak veneer and that would cover the edges.
Okoume would provide a very flat and smooth surface for the veneer.
I would glue two pieces of 9mm okoume together and that would finish at just under 3/4" thick. Add some pieces of oak or maple to the edges for strength and screw holding power and then band the edges and veneer the top.
[url="http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8681"]Here is a source for veneer[/url] but I hate paper backed veneers. You can find real wood veneer teak online and glue it on using contact cement. I can walk you through a perfect veneer job if you go that route.
I buy my teak boards at [url="http://www.theworkbench.com/"]Johnson's Work Bench[/url] and also there is a marine store by my house that has piles of teak. Johnson's has real teak veneer in 36" long pieces.

Edited by - Happy D on 05/25/2008 10:35:00

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 09:39:09

Yes larry, that's the stuff, but you want to look at it first. I ordered a piece of teak plywood and when it arrived it was terrible. The way the grain looked it was very amteurish and I hated it. I felt bad telling them to take it back so there is some junk out there.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 09:40:26

What does your dining room table look like? Send me a photo

Edited by - on

Jefffriday
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 13:28:32

I have been reading this thread with much interest, I too have been noodling on a few ideas for a new table. I will probably go with the veneer plywood route, but right now I am trying some different size blanks out of cardboard. I would like a table with a hinge or possible two that could also go outside (with the tiller up) as a cockpit table. nothing seems too good right now, and I have moved to the short list before launch. I am hoping a cold fat tire (beer) and a gentle warm breeze will inspire a solution.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 20:19:49

Jefferiday, that sounds like an excellent idea if you can get it to work.

Edited by - on

KiteKraemer
Navigator

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191 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 21:23:55

Luckily I have the dinette and it was easy to modify.
I purchased the table at a unfinished furn. store.
http://www.eclipsefilms.com/saloon.jpg

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 21:32:06

That Dinette interior doesn't look like my Dinette at all. Totally different. I like it.
Can you post more pictures?

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 22:25:53

That's because it is an L-dinette, I agree it is a nice config.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2008 : 23:36:24

Real nice dinette table !

I also have been using cardboard to get an idea of the length of the new table to be made.

As far as the teak furniture in my house and what it looks like (ie. Dining Room Table), too late tonight to take photos and tomorrow...I may not get a chance till late in the day...but I will try when I get a chance to snap some photos.

Edited by - on

Frank Law
Navigator

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USA
159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2008 : 11:06:11

Off the wall here!!!! How about a cable attached to the bulk head
down to the table top. No legs,pipes,easily stored . Just an ugly
cable attached to your table top....

Frank Law

"About Time" # 3519

83 SR, SWK

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2008 : 22:19:47

Frank,

Well this posting series started off with getting replacement table suggestions but in that first post, I did mention using a cable. I had seen it in a magazine, etc on the web but cannot recall the details. My thought is that looking over the main cabin part that is adjacent to the pop top, that is where there is a fiberglass lip and the rubber gasket. I believe I can attach a mounting bracket onto that lip. The cable would hang down somewhat vertical (not at a severe angle if it was mounted to the bulkhead). When the table is folded up, the cable would be along the cabin top or I would detach it if it detracted from the cabin appearance.

A lot of good ideas materialized for how to support the table if not by a vertical support leg. Right now, I think I will go with Dan's recommendation to use Teak Plywood. I actually have quite a bit of teak furniture that utilizes teak plywood (must be teak plywood since teak normally does not come in wide boards). Here is a partial photo showing some details of my dining room table. It is a full sized table with an extension leaf and chairs. I also have teak funriture in the master bedroom (Platform bed and 2 dressers).

Edited by - on

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