Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello 25 Fans, Good News Paul, I hope the new Tohatsu works out, mine is on back order, so I probably wont see it for 2-3 weeks. I have always heard or read that a electric start/alternator supplied outboard needs to be attached to a battery, otherwise the diodes for the charging system will be damaged. Anyone had this experience or replaced these diodes, or anyone in the know that could elaborate on this would be appreciated. I cannot understand the reasoning behind suggesting disconnecting from the battery after a few days. I have installed a quick disconnect in my cockpit, the same type for trolling motors with two conductors, and as long as I use the connector "grease" I dont have any corrosion issues from salt water. If a switch is used and then you hand start your engine I assume would cause diode damage. Thanks Jesse Camp
Jesse, I've been on both sides of this connected and unconnected motor to battery thing. When I bought Bamboo in 06 it came with my 01 2 stroke Tohatsu 8 but the PO never connected the alternator to the battery, the wire was just hanging off the motor for several years. A month later I ran the wire and it SEEMS to be charging just fine. Haven't put a tester to it but have noticed a nice charge to the battery at the end of the day. Also I've (I know this is terrible) not sailed my boat for a month and a half with wires connected and haven't noticed any problem whatsoever. So who knows????
The new engine flashed up this evening without any issues! I drained out some of the oil as the dipstick showed the level above the hatchmarks
BTW, I don't have ear muffs for the engine and previously just used a rag to reduce flow of water from the vents in the lower unit when running the engine attached to a garden hose. Today I found a medical sling (left over from a past injury) that is about 2" wide and about 2' long with a velcro tip that allows it to be adjusted to any size. Makes a great earmuff! It's a keeper!
We're putting the boat in the water saturday pulling it sunday. We'll motor around a bit and also try out the new 150%jib.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jesse camp</i> <br /> I have installed a quick disconnect in my cockpit, the same type for trolling motors. Jesse Camp <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Jesse, where did you get quick disconnect? What is brand/model #. I have been looking w/o sucess. Steve A
My contribution to trivia for the day: regarding oil for the 9.8 hp Nissan/Tohatsu engines, 800 cc equals just a hair under .85 qt. or 27 oz., or to put it another way, .75 qt plus 3 oz.
I appreciate all the advice I got on here. I listened carefully and then did things my own way. Sorry, it just is my typical way. A friend and I took the motor out today abord his big deck boat. We tied up with his bow even with my stern and my stern even with his bow. Took the old engine off, using the main halyard as a lanyard just in case. no problems. Moved the new motor from his boat to mine and then I was able to put it on with no issues again using the main halyard as a safety lanyard. Sure looks good. Tilts up just fine. Mine doesn't swing fully to port or starboard though. Paul did I get you correctly that yours does swivel both directions fully? The handle hits on the starboard side and the handle on the port side. I would figure I have about 20 degrees of movement in each direction at best. I am headed back out tomorrow so I will see what can be done. Now I have to feed the cable through the rounded-down.
We broke the engine in this weekend and yes, you are correct, the engine has enough room to swivel fully port and stbd (although with wheel steering it actually never goes that far with the hard link installed.) However, this is with the engine tiller vertical!!!!! The hard link makes it unessacary to direct the engine, we just turn the wheel!
It looks as if I used my grinder and cut off part of the handle I would be able to mount the motor far enough to starboard to be able to turn to port and I would also be able to turn to starboard but man it is so shiny I don't want to use my grinder...
Thanks David. I will try and get pictures of the peoblems I have at the moment but I think the solution is something along the lines of what you did. Very odd that the same motor fits fine on Pauls boat. They must have different transom cut outs. It seems if I could just get it to sit back an inch or two it would clear everything ok.
That's exactly what I thought, but short of fiberglass work beyond my paygrade, I didn't see how I could get those extra inches, so I opted for the Garelick.
FYI, the transom cut out on our 2005 model is 17.5" at it's widest point. The Nissan/Tohatsu engine measures 12.5" from the outside of the tiller knuckle to the outside of the gear tab.
David, the narrowest point is at the bottom ie. the top of the transom sill is 17.5" It widens slightly going up from the top of the sill as the roundown gets thinner higher up.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.