Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
There's an '06 model just listed by Heritage Yachts, Alamitos Bay Marina, Long Beach, CA, asking 28 thou, including an '06 8 horse, electric start, standard shaft length Yamaha. Two user unfriendly mods compared to earlier models, my '01 included: only one starboard clutch and the fuel locker hinges on the front, so you open it in your face and have to raise the tiller up; very awkward to refill the gas tank. And they've moved the jib sheet tracks a couple inches more outboard. Why? I be happy with PRETTY PENNY
Frank, hinges on the front of the fuel locker are good when you're pulling the boat at 59mpg on the highway. But you are correct, it does make tank filling difficult, but then, it can't be that easy either way.
Didn't know that earlier models had double clutches on stbd side, our 2005 has single on port and stbd side.
The Jib sheet tracks allow full travel with the sheets outside of the shrouds and lifelines.
There are several boats around that price and year... that's good news too!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Frank, hinges on the front of the fuel locker are good when you're pulling the boat at <b>59mpg</b> on the highway.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I wish I could get 59mpg while towing, what's your secret?
"...hinges on the front of the fuel locker are good when you're pulling the boat at 59mpg on the highway."
Even at 65 or 70 a simple hasp and lock would prevent the lid from flying open. If or when I trade in my '01 for a later model, first mod will be shifting the hinges to the back of the box and installing a hasp and lock, which Catalina should have done in the first place. Duh. Better it should have stayed bungee'd.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by delliottg</i> I wish I could get 59mpg while towing, what's your secret? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Long Downhill with the wind behind me, foot off the pedal, press the mpg reset button
Frank, I believe this is the same C250 that was across from my boat in Newport Beach. They moved it after listing it several months ago and no takers. Obviously, slip fees cheaper in north. I do remember some mods on it I liked. Its probably not a great time to sell a boat these days. And I don't believe he has a trailer. I wish him luck. Steve A
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AADIVER</i> <br />"Sucks to be old"
Old-er, boss, NEVER that dirty three letter word
Can't understand why Catalina eliminated the starboard double clutch and replaced it with a single. Gotta be a reason...that reason knows not of.
As to aging, you've got many a moon to catch up with me: 76 in September! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'm guessing it's because of the roller furler. The second clutch on my starboard side never gets used. In fact, I broke the lever on the very first outing with my boat. (mental note, don't step on 'em) I'd bet the original design was for the main and jib halyards to starboard and the jiffy reef to port. With the CDI furler, the jib halyard is just an extra line so why bother to run it aft?
FWIW, my port clutch is for my boom vang line, inboard starboard clutch is for my mainsail luff reefing line, and the outboard for my main halyard. I greatly improved mainsail reefing by 86ing the thru boom bad idea and replaced it with a luff line and a leech line. (pics on my reefing posts)
I kept the leach line throught the boom for the first reef but put a reefing horn on the boom where the luff attaches to the boom. That keeps the luff tight when I reef and gives much better sail shape. For the second reef I use a leach line and the second reef cringle on the reefing horn. The reefing horn allows the luff to be really tight.
I just eliminated the single line reefing and went to a two line setup. It sets much better. I use the in-boom reef line to pull down the reef clew and it goes to the port clutch. The reef tack line goes to the starboard clutch. The tack line starts at the old cheek block on the port side of the mast, goes up through the reef tack and down to a block on the mast plate and then to the organizer and starboard clutch. Easy set up and gives an excellent reefed sail shape.
I like the idea of a second reef using a clew line that runs along the boom to another block and then to a port clutch. Second reef tack to a block and starboard clutch. Would need two more clutches, one on each side. I believe that the safest setup for reefing calls for the lines to be led to the cockpit.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.