Association Forum - Dinette table replacement

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Dinette table replacement

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
5445 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/26/2008 : 23:29:57

I have a dinette style cabin and it is great for playing cards and having a few guests in for dinner (sandwiches mostly).

The other nice thing about it is the setup accommodates a queen size air mattress when it's time for bedding down for the night. It's fabulous, however those with the settee type will argue in favor of the finer points of their setups, as you should.

The dinette table top I have is made of fibre-board (MDF?) with a cheezy formica veneer glued on top, and a strip of vinyl going all around the edge. It has a great leg support on one end, just be careful not to put too much weight on it on an angle - OOPS!

I have been thinking about buying some 6" mahogany slats and glueing a table top together with biscuits (you know, like Norm on the New Yankee Workshop?). I might shore it up with two slats at 90 degrees going across the bottom. Epoxy is probably as good as any other glue for "Glueing and Screwing" the pieces together.

This approach ought to cost me about $80-$100 for the materials

Now the other alternative is to keep the MDF Fibreboard and just get some teak or mahogany veneer and smear on some rubber cement to put it all together.

Anybody had experience with either of these approaches? Replacement or veneer?

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2008 : 17:52:40

Catalina Direct has a kit to lock the table in place to deal with the off center pressure issue and add a drawer under it.

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2008 : 19:20:07

MDF and particle board have no place on a boat. However, marine grade plywood or plywood assembled with exterior glue works just fine and is A LOT lighter. Plywood is also an excellent backing for Formica and holds screws well for attaching legs, hinges, etc. The hardest part is to figure out how to finish the edges that are exposed. I don't know what tools you have available or the level of your skills but I suspect if you are thinking about redoing the veneer, you probably have a router. In which case a slotting bit will allow you to cut a slot all around the top edge. Then you can install vinyl Tee molding which will nicely finish the edge including radiused sections, which you would want to have on the outside corners. Tee molding is available at many wood working stores like Woodworker's Supply. They'll set you up with the proper bit, the molding, and advice. You'll end up with a nicely finished top in whatever pattern you like that will look good for a long time and be alot lighter to boot. One hint, make sure to also apply some finish (paint, varnish, contact cement, etc)onto the underside of the top to exclude any moisture.

Edited by - on

Patrice C25
1st Mate

Members Avatar

78 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 08:06:04

Hi,

I had in mind of redoing mine too as a next winter project, the original table is not that nice.
As refinishing all woodwork too.

Just one note, when making your new table top, make sure finish thickness will be close to original, so when drop down for bed support, you don't have issue....

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

Members Avatar

502 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 09:53:15

Hi Bruce, I just looked up my old [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=12188"]post[/url] from over two years ago when I did this project. It is now locked and I couldn't update the photo links, so here it is below:

"I finished my new dinette table and installed it in the boat yesterday. I got a 24”x48” piece of oak plywood, some oak veneer edging, and some outdoor polyurethane. I cut the table to size, making sure I put in the slight angle on the end that is against the hull. I ironed on the edging, sanded everything smooth, and applied 5 coats of polyurethane.
Here are some photos:
The original table which was completely rotted and disintegrating:

Here is my final product:

Here is a close up of the edging:

This is the iron on self adhesive edging I used:

I reused the original hardware, but scrubbed it with a wire brush. The leg was very corroded but I was able to bring it back to looking almost new except one side. The side that faced out into the cabin was corroded, but I drilled out the rivets on the mount, drilled new holes, and reversed it so the corrosion does not show.
I originally was looking into getting some teak edging to use around the edge of the table to match the interior. When I priced it all out from a few sources, prices were always around $120 for the teak alone. That was a lot more than I hoped to spend and I wasn’t sure how I was going to finish the edge. It wasn’t until I went to Home Depot to pick up the wood that I found they made matching edging for the plywood. As you can see in the photo above, along the long sides, the wood appears to be solid oak; the veneer blends right in. Of course around the curve and short sides, the grain doesn’t run parallel, but it still looks good enough. This whole project cost me less than $30, less than I thought it would."

Two and a half years later and it still looks just as good.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 10:06:50

Yup--that table always was ugly! Here's Not Yet from the Tech Tips pages...

I'd say he set the standard.

...not that Justin's isn't a huge improvement--it looks great!

BTW, I used a couple of very small pieces of cedar shingle as wedges between the table and the hull liner to prevent that OOPS occurrence. CD's kit is probably better...

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 07/28/2008 10:15:30

Stardog
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 13:17:06

I really like the oak, I'm very fond of oak. I like the edging on Dave's, nice to keep your drinks and food on the table where they belong.

Edited by - on

Patrice C25
1st Mate

Members Avatar

78 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 14:23:09

Woaw !!

Nice job guys...
Which outdoor polyurethane did you used ? Did the finish stayed that shiny?

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 16:29:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stardog
 I like the edging on Dave's...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I just dug up the picture--I didn't make the table.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5445 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2008 : 23:27:17

Wow! Both tables sure are very nice looking. Just a comment - I don't know what the current table is made out of, but the formica is starting to lift and the core seems heavy enough to be MDF. I would never use that stuff for anything on a boat, as it would simply turn into a pile of wet sawdust!

I'm thinking about two different approaches -

(1) get some nice 5/4 Mahogany and join it, similar to the picture above, but maybe using four or five slats rather than 1" slats. Depends on how things measure up on the table saw. I would probably not put a raised edge around the table, then I'd regret not doing so after the 50th time my cup walked off the table while motoring. I've also got some 5/4 red oak, but it does not stand up well to wetness. Justin, you said yours is holding up well? Do you have to re-urethane it every year?

(2) I have some nice Birch plywood that I scored from the Home Depot a while back - it was heading for the dumpster! I could not believe it so I offered the guys a pretty good price. I'd need a good amount of birch edge veneer tape.

I could also use some standard marine plywood. I like the veneer idea, but running the router steady all around the rim to use the Tee moulding may have its ups and downs. I think this will be a winter-time project.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

Members Avatar

502 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2008 : 07:14:01

I haven't done anything to the table since I made it. A small part of the veneer edging came a little loose and discolored in one corner where water puddled from a window leak on it. Other than that, it looks great still.

Edited by - on

Stardog
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2008 : 10:06:15

I have the traditional arrangement, my table is still in great condition even though it is the original, probably because the boat has always been kept very dry inside. After seeing these pretty tables I'm inclined to make a new one, something that will improve the look of the interior.

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1520 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2008 : 12:11:20

OK, I'm definitely going to polish my 30 year old (original) table now!!! It's surprising how it's lasted.

Maybe the Nicro solar vent installed by a PO has kept the cabin relatively dry and the table from crumbling.

I'll take a picture, too!

Edited by - on

cat1951
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 07/29/2008 : 13:23:10

I got tired of having to manhandle the table in the traditional cabin. Plus it was a hassle trying to keep it in the bulkhead brackets and I was always hitting my head trying to set it up or take it down. So I shortened mine and put in a small shelf/magazine rack below. Next step will be to use the current table as a pattern for one of solid wood. I have to admit, I have never anything like this table..it weighs a ton.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

Members Avatar

921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2008 : 06:05:19

Here is a photo of the table I build. I made it from teak face plywood, glued to a piece of marine plywood to make it 7/8" thick. I made the edge from teak.

Edited by - on

cat1951
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2008 : 08:26:30

Did you have any trouble locating the teak pieces? Was it local? I am getting ready to start buying the pieces for my new table and am wondering where you located it.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

Members Avatar

921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2008 : 10:31:41

Mike,
I bought the teak locally at a lumber store. It is expensive! $20.00/bd ft. the US government outlawed the import of teak so the price is probably going up.
Search the Internet and buy exactly what you need and have it shipped might be the best way to go.
You can also find teak edge banding just like Justin did with the oak.
Teak plywood is even harder to come by. It is not a nice as teak boards, but it's good enough for me.
[url="http://www.theworkbench.com/"]Here [/url] is where I bought mine. They are in Charlotte, MI
I bought the [url="http://www.publiclumber.com/"]plywood[/url] at Public lumber in Detroit, MI
I looked at a piece of teak plywood at Johnson's and it was terrible.

Edited by - Happy D on 08/02/2008 10:38:19

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2008 : 11:03:54

Gorgeous, Dan! Yes, teak is passing the point of ridiculousness. I laugh when I look at pieces at WM. With the right stain, luan-faced plywood is a decent facimile for the surface.

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2008 : 12:12:52

Well, I can't compete with the workmanship on Not Yet, that's for sure, but here's what I did. I threw away the old table, leg and all. Made a new one, a little shorter, out of 3/4 inch birch plywood. Used some leftover white oak to make a one inch high edge banding strip, so I have sufficient fiddle for sitting around the dock, but not enough for underway. On the other hand, I can put my elbows up on the table like the slob I am.
For the leg, I glued up two pieces of 3/4" white oak to make a slab about 3" x 6" and drilled a one inch hole centered in the bottom of it. I cut a one inch oak dowel to length and glued it in the hole, then drove a screw into it from the back side just for a little more strength. Attached the whole gizmo to the bottom of the table with a good strong hinge. I bought a set of plastic closet pole hangers, threw away the one with the cut out and centered up the whole one so the leg would fit into it on the dinette sole.
I stained the whole thing then applied about five coats of standard marine varnish, nothing special.
I took the hangers from the old table and inserted them into the brackets from the factory, then shoved the table back till it wedged firmly against the side of the boat, then screwed up from the bottom to attach the brackets. Actually, it is at this point that you have to mount the closet pole hanger to get it centered up under the leg. This set up is surprisingly firm. I wouldn't want to rest my whole weight on it, but I can't figure out away to make any table that strong anyway.
One other benefit. I had just finished replacing all of my bulkheads with birch ply. I was therefore able to match the stains up so that it looks as if I planned it. HA.

Edited by - on

Deric
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2008 : 16:51:26

I didn't actually replace the dinette table; however, I made it into a charting table. I think it makes the boat look very nautical. ;-) I thought placing this information in this tread may be helpful rather than creating a new thread.

The chart is under plexiglass. I have different dry erase colored markers. When I take people on a sail, they often ask questions about the lake; I show them the map.

Deric

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

Members Avatar

921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2008 : 19:20:57

That's beautiful! Great idea Deric!

Edited by - on

PZell
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2008 : 09:10:09

Your chart table looks great. Sparky has the pedestal table (whatever you call that arrangement). We took a couple of sheets of plexiglass and hinged them with duct tape (you could get fancier). Put the chart inbetween them and clip it to the table. It's handy to the companion way. As we use various charts, it's easy to put up the one that's needed. We have it mostly so that the South Bay is on one side the Main SF Bay on the other, so only have to flip it over for most trips. Also stuck a pix of the boat on the hard in one corner so I can better visualize the keel for shallow water work.

Edited by - on

KiteKraemer
Navigator

Members Avatar

191 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 16:43:59

Nice Tables Everyone!! This is always a popular thread...

Mines a childrens table from a unfinished furniture store, I stained it cherrywood, then a danish finish. It was cheap and looks great.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.