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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Lower Unit lube
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/11/2008 :  17:00:10  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
Since its time to put th eboat away for winter, I'm getting ready to winterize the OB this weekend.
This is our first time winterizing an outboard... what follows is reflective of that.

Sadly, I cannot find any reference to what is supposed to be put in the lower unit to lube it. I know that there are 2 slot headed screws I undo to dran the lower unit, and that you refill it from the bottom, forcing the lube upwards (this from various websites), but I cannot find any reference to what the lube is called.

Any tips (links, etc would be great! Especially if the product is at Canadian Tire!) Also, some sites recommend flushing the lower unit out and then putting the new lube in, while others say to just drain it and refill. A third school of thought is to fog the cylinders now and deal with the lower unit in the spring. Is there any consensus on this out there?

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
http://frosthaus.blogspot.com/

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  17:16:21  Show Profile
The generic term is "hypoid gear oil"--I think 90W is standard--you should be able to find it in a plastic tube with a tip that fits nicely into the hole.

Flushing would be a good idea after the initial break-in oil, but I think it's unnecessary thereafter. As for timing--if any salt water has gotten into the oil, you'd want to get rid of it (and know about it) earlier rather than later. That said, I've usually "gotten a round tuit" in the spring.

BTW, I drain the old oil into a plastic grocery bag that I hang around the lower unit--letting it drip for a few hours.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/11/2008 17:24:57
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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  17:27:58  Show Profile
The [url="http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS8A3_98A3.pdf"]Tohatsu Manual[/url] Page 43 says to:

"Use genuine oil or the recommended one (API GL-5: SAE #80 to #90) Required voleume approximately 320mL."

So, if you have a Tohatsu............

Edited by - John Russell on 11/11/2008 17:28:42
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  18:42:18  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
Thanks guys. I have an Evinrude. By the sounds of it I need SAE 90 gear oil. I'll try to find that. Since we are in fresh water, I don't see an advantage to flushing.

Should I be concerned that there was bit of oil on the flat plates at the bottom of the OB the other day when I went out to think about doing this? Maybe tomorrow I'll take a pic to post here.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  19:12:39  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i>
<br />Thanks guys. I have an Evinrude. By the sounds of it I need SAE 90 gear oil. I'll try to find that. Since we are in fresh water, I don't see an advantage to flushing.

Should I be concerned that there was bit of oil on the flat plates at the bottom of the OB the other day when I went out to think about doing this? Maybe tomorrow I'll take a pic to post here.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Could be seepage from the gear case screws... When you drain the oil, if it looks milky, that suggests the same thing (in reverse). You should then change the fiber washers on both screws--it's not a bad idea every few years in any case.

In your initial post, you mentioned flushing the gear case (which should be done with a solvent, but probably only after the break-in)... Powerboats run that gear oil to higher temperatures, so their requirements are different.

Then you apparently mentioned flushing the cooling system, and I agree that in fresh water that's not an issue--you <i>run</i> in the stuff we <i>flush</i> with.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/11/2008 19:17:49
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  19:22:58  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
Now I'm confused. I thought they were talking about flushing out the lower unit. Should I be doing that? If so then solvent makes more sense to flush out the grease than water would. I don't see any value in flushing out anything else on the engine.

Looks like a trip to the local evinrude dealer may be a good idea if now I'm looking a lower unit grease, washers, and a sparkplug. Not an expensive trip, but a worthwhile one. Maybe while I'm there I'll get some real fogging oil as well. I have seen folks reccomending everything from cooking oil to WD-40 online and I'm not sure I trust all that I've seen.

Incidentally, the enging is not new. I believe it is the original 1989 engine, and it caused us much grief all summer, so I want to treat it really well before putting it to bed for the winter so it has no excuses next season.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  19:27:39  Show Profile
Walmart has "Lower Unit Oil" $1.87 a tube and you will need 2 tubes.

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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2008 :  20:13:36  Show Profile
I bought fogging spray for about $4 at a local auto supplier.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2008 :  05:27:16  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i>
<br />Should I be concerned that there was bit of oil on the flat plates at the bottom of the OB...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If you have a two-stroke, its possibly just unburnt oil from the exhaust.

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DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2008 :  07:39:34  Show Profile  Visit DaveR's Homepage
Exactly what I was thinking Don. And If you're flushing the lower unit do it with solvent <b>not</b> water. Although I generally agree with Dave B. it might not be a terrible idea (flushing the lower unit) for a motor that old.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2008 :  08:18:10  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i>
<br />Now I'm confused...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Me to. But I don't think you need to flush either with anything.

WD-40 is fine for fogging--I wouldn't use cooking oil. "Fogging oil" is sorta like "Marine Quality" WD-40.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2008 :  08:52:51  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
OK Thanks Guys. So at lunch today I will go to Canadian Tire and get:[url="http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396673437&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443290398&bmUID=1226501277729&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true"]Fogging Oil & Fuel Stabilizer[/url] and a bottle of [url="http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443298087&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396676762&bmUID=1226501425284&OmniCrossSell=0281774%20Nautilus+Premium+Marine+Gear+Oil++1L"]Outboard Gear Oil[/url].

Then this weekend we'll see if everything works when I try winterizing this thing. I still can't figure out why this is so daunting!

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