Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Would someone who still has access to their boat email me the measurement of the channel that the hatch boards fit into. I am trying to make a new entry hatch and that was the one measurement that I forgot to take before I put the boat in storage 200 miles away!
Newell, This ain't what you want to hear, but I made new drop boards for my 1977. The grove on the port side was 1/2" wide and the groove on the starboard side was 5/8". I think 1/2" is the standard. I made new rails and made the groove 1/2", to accept 1/2" thick boards. My boards are 3/4" thick and relieved to 1/2" on the edges. Dan
Newell, I would wait until some other people chime in here. I don't know what your plan is, but a 1/2" board is pretty bendy. That's why I went with 3/4" and relieved it on the sides. Also, mine are solid boards, only horizontal glue joint, no verticle joints.
Newell, I don't have the measurements handy but I know my hatch-boards are thicker then the slot and relieved at the edges to the width of the slot. If I had to guess I would say they are a standard 1" (3/4" after planing) thick board and relieved to about 1/2". I'll be down there Saturday and can get you some measurement then. Mine is a 78 and it may vary by year.
I had to replace the "sliders" - the companionway trim boards that the hatch boards fit into. when I did, I found that the groove the hatch boards fit into is made by the L shaped companionway boards and another piece of teak trim. Depending on the thickness of the bedding compound used on your boat and whether your companionway trim has ever been replaced, you may have even more variability.
I would suggest doing a relief as suggested by Joe above - just use a router or plane to skinny up th eedged of the hatch boards, then call it a custom fit.
I don't know the exact thickness (probably 3/4") but I do know my boards weren't "relieved" on the sides. Perhaps Catalina changed the trim configuration some time before 1985.
I re-made the side trim also and made it to be 1/2" groove. This way as it wears, and the groove gets bigger, and I can always add to the trim pieces to tighten the groove back up. Making new trim pieces and a new sill piece took a lot of time and a lot of hand scraping and planing. It took me 12 hours of hand fitting each trim piece and 3 days to make a new sill. But it sure looks great now.
I'll measure mine tomorrow. I intended to do it today, but the admiral thought returning the renewed kitchen to a fully functional state was a higher priority - go figure.
I just remembered, when mine split I did an ACAD version of an idea I had to re-make them out of the existing bits left over and some Aluminium. While the idea was nixed, here are the drawings with measurements. The measurements were to match the existing trim pieces, plus 1/8" to allow for warpage of the boards or other movement.
Looks like Prospector's is like mine, and the '70s vintages are different (thinner at the edges)... We need a reply from a 1980 owner--are your boards routed down on the sides, tongue-and-groove style, or flat?
The companionway boards on mine are about 1/2 thick and flat.
My boards are out in the car. I'm working on changing mine right now. ?starboard or a hardwood and all the other questions so I'm following the thread. I'm about to go to a rare woods store to get the stock.
I found my boards to be irregular in height, so it looks like it was a custom fit. I'll probably do the same, cut the boards from the bottom piece up and mount the "guide" pieces on the side when the boards are placed in, and then cut the top board at the top when it is marked in place.
Probably use 1 inch stock and route it out on the sides.
When I would look around our marina, I'd see differences on the size and fitting of the boards and guides on the catalina 25s. My board measurements were as follows. I made some boards out of pine to remove the boards on the boat to work on them.
OK.. I can see from my drawings that my board must be more than 1/2 thick. So hey... a picture ( and a measured drawing ) is certainly worth more than my word.
For th ethickness of th eboards... CD's "Type A" boards are "tapered to be 3/4" thick at the edge" to fit the groove in the track. YMMV - there are types A-d for the crib boards on the website, and only the type A boards come with dimensions.
A bit more bad news... boats aren't quite 'symmetrical'.
I used a bevel gage to get the mitre angle on one side of the companionway, transferred to the table saw, then flopped the board over to cut the other side. I took the boards down to the boat and... oops.
The companionway opening was a slightly different angle on port and starboard.
This was something I'd already learned (and forgot) from working on my other boats... prototype (with scrap) or template (with cardboard) everything... you can't take a shortcut and assume symmetry. There's literally nothing plumb, level, true or square on a boat. (Well, at least not any of mine)
That is what was going on on my boat also. It looks like you make the boards and then position the trim to fit the boards. If appears they were not machine made but hand made and custom fit, so each one is different.
It took me a while to get my head around what was going on.. I also was trying to measure and draw up the plans and the dimensions were coming out "almost" square.
A carpenter did the work, not some autocad machine in China.
Yes I did make plans in CAD, but the custom fit on my boat was a reality as well. BTW, I'm a long way from China. Maybe next time I won't be so quick to toss an idea out there.
Just to add to the confusion, my guide slot is 1" and the boards are flat 11/16". That seems like a lot of play, but they don't rattle around. Since they are oil finished, they may a little thicker in the hot humid summer.
I can easily imagine losing 1/16" to weathering and sanding after 25 years... and if the original boards were 3/4", it might make sense to make the "slots" 1" to allow for some offset where the boards overlap each other with "steps" that might not be that precise. In my recollection, the boards didn't fit tightly in the slots--there's no particular reason for them to do so.
Dave, I suspect that you are correct, 11/16 is an odd size and the boards are worn a little thinner where the edges ride in the slot. I also think that generous spacing is necessary to prevent binding.
Dave - the crib boards on Passage fit nicely, but not snugly, in the tracks since I re-stained/painted them with several base coats of Dek Oljes and a bunch of finish coats of Sikkens Cetol.
I spent much of last winter applying coat after coat of the stains both on the boards and the slots. So the materials may have built up sufficiently to fill the gaps.
Ray, looks like your boards are in decent shape. Take a pressure washer to them first, then sanding, followed by teak oil. I bet they'll look great when you are finished.
The local experts at Carltons Rare Woods said to: Bleach Sand Put in Superglue ( Highland Hardware sells a big bottle of Superglue ) and Oil.
My guides ( the side trim ) are broken so I hafta replace them so I'm using this as a learning experience in carpentry. I have a pretty good shop, might as well use it. Also Trying to learn a bit about Starboard.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.