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PoliGlow

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Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/01/2009 : 07:43:52

Has anyone ever uses Poli Glow to re-finish their hull?

S/V Prima Donna
1986, 15 HP Universal Inboard Diesel, Fixed keel, Hull # 5362

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 08:37:47

Many folks have and love it. I'd do a search on it. My hull wasn't that bad, I used Nu Finish on it and it worked well for me.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 09:01:47

The fresh water lake where I sail is very blue collar therefore lots of old boats. Two things have become very common, VC17 and Poly Glow (or VertGlass from Lovettmarine.com). Like most things it is all about preparation and following directions. You will be dazzled by the results and thrilled with the ease of use.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 09:30:46

One more yes vote... Great for older boats--very easy to apply and looks good for a long time. The initial four coats take a couple of hours to wipe on, and an annual dress-coat takes almost no time at all. I think Vertglas is the about the same stuff. (I'm sure both co.s would disagree.)

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3321 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 11:11:32

I think that Vertglas is a 3 part application and PolyGlow a 2 part. Being inherently lazy I went with PolyGlow and put on 5 coats. 3 years later I still get compliments on the shiny hull.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 15:13:43

We used Poliglo on our 1986 C22 and loved it. Put on six coats the first time andthen 1 new coat each spring and fall. Like Dave said, it is best for older boats. A great product.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3462 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2009 : 17:22:14

I'm a Poliglow user as well. 6 coats to start with and then 2 coats every 6 months. This past year, I'm making it a 2 coat annual affair. I just washed one side to get it ready and it appears that 2 coats a year will be an okay maintenance schedule for me. Poliglow works great since I do all this while my boat is in the water. It's in the water all year and so this seems like easiest way to do the hull and get a nice glossy finish.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2009 : 15:52:31

Last year I scrubbed and buffed. I thought this was just part of the spring routine. I have heard good and bad reviews of Poliglow. I don't know if I'm ready to go there yet.

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StSimon
Captain

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USA
298 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2009 : 20:32:31

I liked the PoliGlow look when it was first applied. A year and a half later, on the hard and in the sun, it still looks decent but it seems to have discolored a bit. The stripe tape I put over the factory stripe is mottled white and the bottom paint looks different at the top where the PoliGlow has seeped down onto it.

Anyone else have similar or other problems? I'm not discounting PoliGlow but questioning why I have these issues. Maybe it was my application process or something else. Any thoughts?

Edited by - on

Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2009 : 21:44:24

I am planning on using Poly Glow for the first time this year on the 1978 Catalina. I am unaware of the side of the hull was ever waxed. I got the boat two years ago, and didn't wax or do anything with the hull myself.

I didn't realize that I may need to apply 6 coats. The white hull is like chalk on the boat; it does need attention. I spent more time bottom painting last year.

I hope to start Poly Glowing the boat next week sometime. I'll post my first impression of the product herein afterwards.

By the way, Poly does mean many; so is the product called Poly Glow because you have to put many coats of the product on the boat in order to make it glow?

or

maybe one must spend many dollars for the product in order to make the boat glow?

I'd like to see a product named something like Easy-One-Application-Lowcost Glow and truly be it.

Deric

Edited by - on

StSimon
Captain

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298 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 07:41:37

Right on Deric!

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Turk
Admiral

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736 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 08:27:41

After spending 4 or 5 days removing poly glow from my boat, I thought I would chime in on this thread. I got started with Poly glow after meeting the owner of the company in Annapolis 3 years ago. I always thought that the product was used to "renew" the finish of old fiberglass boats. My conversation with the owner swayed me to believe that even newer boats could be enhanced with poly glow's properties as a wax free finish.

I bought a kit and proceeded to add the finish. 4 or 5 coats later (the whole quart) I had finished the hull and the smooth areas of the deck and cockpit. It looked quite beautiful and I was convinced it was the right choice.

There is one property about poly glow I did not realize. It slowly has the ability to attract and hold dirt. It slowly discolors and becomes noticeable as the applicators streaks become apparent. The hull looked the best, but the areas above on the deck and cockpit began looking "dirty". You cannot clean poly glow. You have to remove it.

The finish remained on my boat for 3 years until the admiral said, "You gotta get rid of this stuff". Removing poly glow is done with Poly glow prep. It softens the poly glow and it has to be wiped off with a rag several times. It also softens the hands, wear gloves. I removed all the poly glow above the hull. The hull still looks decent and I'm guessing on a 250, the gelcoat is different than the top decks. It has not streaked at all. It still attracts dirt, but that may be because I haven't kept up the regiment of reapplying the finish each year.

The worst part about the application is the process. You spread the finish on as if you where varnishing with a chamois covered applicator. It promoted dirt getting into the finish and drips and streaks if not careful. It must be cleaned often to keep it from picking up dirt. Drips and runs will harden and ruin the finish. It dries literally in seconds. It is easy to overlook the drips or "pools" of poly glow only to curse yourself later for your carelessness.

My conclusion is actually more positive than I've lead on. Poly glow on older boats with chalky finishes is perfect for the hull especially to bring back color or to give it a shine that wax could not possible accomplish. Deck areas is another story and I would be careful if you are looking for a "clean" finish. The sun may participate in its deterioration and proneness to streaking. Applying or removing poly glow is a much more demanding process as opposed to waxing your boat. As a time saver for a newer finish boat, I'm not sure it accomplishes this. If it improves the look of an older hull, then it has value.

Next year I will remove the poly glow from the hull. The company says it is an alternative to waxing. I still had to wax it every year. The finish by itself is not as smooth as wax. Again that means that poly glows inherent value is to improve the look of an older hull, and it rightfully claims this in it's ads.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3462 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 09:25:35

Turk brings up some good points to be aware of when applying Poliglow and then what to expect. Deric indicated he was going to try Poliglow in a week. So a few things I thought I would comment on:

I am almost positive that the marketing literature for Poliglow indicates it should not be used for new boats. Itt should be used for boats that are at least 5 years old. If the marketing does not say that, then it is probably what I have heard or read on this Forum. The reason for this is that while Poliglow is clear, it actually has a barely perceptible tint to it and if you had a completely white clean new hull, then the applying Poliglow is bound to be a bit disappointing. As our boats age, that is where the Poliglow or Vertiglas works best.

The second thing: The most important thing to keep in mind whether applying Poliglow, wax or whatever: The surface must be clean. All dirt, stains, oxidation must be removed. Anything that you may have left behind..perhaps small speck that you did not notice. Once you put the Poliglow on, that speck is locked into the gloss and typically once the boat does start to shine, that speck becomes even more noticeable. If the hull is chalky - Has significant oxidation, then you are in for a lot of prep work. This would be the case even if you were just going to rewax your boat. The oxidation must be removed. You can remove it with oxidation cleaners but the Polyprep would have to be used anyway before applying the Poliglow. Best to read the mfrs website and/or directions on the side of the POliglow carefully before you apply the Poliglow. Make sure you are ready for the final step. Then the application is easy and continued re-applications are made easier. When it comes time after 6 mos or a year to reapply Poliglow, you first do a decent washing of the hull. Then recmd use black streak cleaner to help remove any ...black streaks. Carefully look over the hull for any dirt, stain, etc and then remove those few stubborn areas with either a cleaner or the polyprep. There should not be all that many areas to effected and that is what minimizes the prep work during re-applications. But as Turk indicated, the dirt, etc can become embedded in the Poliglow and reapplying Poliglow over it will lock it in. It can easily be removed in those isolated areas effected by using the poliprep but you want to minimize this issue and that is why careful inspection of the washed/cleaned surface is necessary before reapplying Poliglow.

Third point: When applying the Poliglow, you will see that it goes on so fast and easy that you will tend to speed thru the job. Go at it a little slower and make sure that you stay in one place long enough to observe any drips that formed on the surface from excess Poliglow that was applied. It is important to do this right at time of application...like the first 15 seconds after applying it. This is because Poliglow will dry in perhaps less than a minute or so and then any drips will be semi-permanent drips. If you see the POliglow causing a drip or a little steak/stream, then just wipe it with the applicator/pad and it is gone. If dried, they can actually be easily removed if you take care of each one and do not let them build up year after year. At time of a dried drip, you simply rub it out with a little bit of the Poliprep and then after that dries and drip removed, then reapply the Poliglow in that area or ...maybe enough Poliglow on there that you don't even have to do that.

I only use Poliglow on the sides. I do not use it in the cockpit. I was not happy for whatever reason using it there and besides, the cockpit area is very easy to get to all thru the year. I use wax in that area and by keeping after it every 2-3 months or so, I have very little prep work. If I let it go for a year, then I would have to dig out the polishing or oxidation agents forst before re-waxing but if I do it every 2-3 months, I just wash and re-apply wax. I'm happy going it that way.

Anyway,,,that may help for anyone venturing into this for first time.

Edited by - OLarryR on 04/04/2009 09:36:41

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 10:52:28

Excellent points from Larry... I'll add just a few:

- I agree on using it for the hull only, and I've said for years not to use it on a newer boat, like most C-250s. It does great things for aging gelcoat--it'll probably diminish shiny gelcoat.

- Oxidation can be sufficiently removed with a light-duty 3-M pad. The hull doesn't have to be shiny--just uniform and not overly chalky before you put on Poly Glow. The Poly Prep cleaner is overkill for this purpose, although it's very good for removing marks and stains. Wear gloves or it'll remove your skin, too. It's real purpose is removing Poly Glow, which is almost impervious to ordinary soaps and detergents.

- When applying, do the thinest possible coats. Don't dip the applicator in the stuff--just squeeze a little bit out of the bottle onto the damp applicator. The first coat will virtually disappear... the next few coats will create a streaky look... the fourth coat will probably look pretty good, and you can add one or two after that until you have the uniform shine you want. Each coat takes 10-15 minutes per side without rushing. Don't keep adding until it looks like buffed paste wax--you'll never quite get there...

- Turk: If you used the whole quart for 4-5 coats, I think you put it on too thickly, which may have caused the issues you speak of. I don't remember how much I used the first time, but it was considerably less than the full quart. How about anybody else?

- I found that one dress-coat each spring kept Passage looking great. In spots where fenders wore through, I'd touch up with a few coats. As Larry says, this material adds a tiny tint so the hull isn't snow-white from a close-up view (particularly compared to the chalky look), but it's white and has a nice, medium shine. This is why I agree it's not really for the cockpit area, where it's up-close and personal.

- After five years or more, you may decide to remove the PG and restart the process. It's not a big deal.

Hope this helps...

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 10:57:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Deric
 By the way, Poly does mean many; so is the product called Poly Glow because you have to put many coats of the product on the boat in order to make it glow?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It's because it's a POLYmer (plastic-like) finish instead of a wax.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3462 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 14:17:42

This is turning out to be a great post ! No controversial issues ! No one calling for extracating someone for bad-mouthing another ! I love it !

I will just add to Dave's comments two things:

Agree..wear gloves when applying the poly prep or it could take off your skin. If it does take some skin off (well it never happened to me), then do not put Polyglow on your hands where skin was removed...for protection !! LOL

As to how much of the bottle you use when applying Polyglow...I seem to recall whe I first applied the 5-6 coats on each side, that I still had stuff left in the bottle. I think there was enough for 2 coats refresh the next time I did it. Once the initial applications are completed, the 1-2 coats you do after that every 6-12 months later, do not use all that much. Probably have enough for a few periodic applications. Just that the bottle is then sitting around for a long time with a lot of air in it. Still...it's not quite like paint and does not gel up after the bottle when the bottle is half full. But if I was on the last 25% of it and saving if for a re-application 6 months later, then I would go ahead and re-order another bottle.

Edited by - OLarryR on 04/04/2009 14:20:04

Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 19:27:40

I checked out the video on the PoliGlow web Site: http://www.poliglow-int.com/

The person demonstrating the technique on how to clean the boat and then apply the product mentions that PG bottle is intended to cover 4-5 applications for a 30 foot boat.

The site also mentions how important it is clean the boat so as to not seal in stains and dirt -- as mentioned by our very own experts above within this thread. Good information folks.

Deric

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 20:02:36

Dave, I checked my basement stock and I did have 1/3 of a quart left in the bottle. I just put it away and forgot about it.

Your point to "take it slow" is critical especially after reading the instructions to put 5-6 coats on. One begins to speed through the process and get careless. Take your time.

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bren737
Captain

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291 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 20:54:53

Having just put on my two 'maintenance coats' today, I can attest to the 'wonders of Poli-Glow'. However, the comments in regards to older hulls and preparatory cleaning are key. I think the PG site and their literature do specify that it works best at restoring older hulls which have oxidized, not as a protectant for newer ones.

Another point is the periodic use of Poli Prep to remove it every 3-5 years and then rebuild the layers of PG. After 3-5 years it tends to break down and yellow just a tad. Using PP to strip it and then relay 4-6 new coats seems to work pretty good. Another key point is to wash the boat THOROUGHLY every 6-9 months (depending on locale) and put on another quick two maintenance coats.

The big point (as they point out) is to make sure all streaks, stains, etc. are removed before applying PG, as it simply seals them in.

Having an older boat now, I highly recommend it. I don't think I would have used it on my 250. BTW, with a hull of 40 ft, I used one quart and just a tad of the second to do a strip and four coats of 'rebuild'. The two maintenance coats took about 1/3 of a quart.

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 21:00:20

I put on 5-6 coats the first time I used Poli Glow. I had enough left over to put a couple of coats all around the cockpit - only to have the same experience as Turk. It looks great on the hull, but on deck it's a dirt magnet.

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PJohnston
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2009 : 22:16:57

I just finished putting 5 coats down the sides of my hull today. I still need to do the transom, and I would like to add one to two more coats to finish out the job. I think it has made a tremendous improvement to my good old boat!

Regards,
Pete

Edited by - on

Jefffriday
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2009 : 11:13:08

I used Polyglow on the topsides (hull) when I first got my boat and was fairly happy with the results (all above warnings of drips, dirt, and frequent rinseing of the applicator taken) After the first year I decided to remove it and polish out the finish. It was a real bear to get off. I did not get as much of the oxidation off as I should have initially. It was especially obvious on the maroon boot-stripe. I ended up starting with 220 wet-dry and sanding the topsides, the 400, then, 600, 1200, then 3M's Compound, then 3M's Finesse it. I got it back to a really good Gloss with rich color. Now I wax it when it comes out in the fall, and in the spring before it goes back in. I think it is a great product for badly oxidized hulls without enough gelcoat left to polish, but, if you have enough of the gelcoat remaining (you can tel quickly by lightly sanding a small area) polishing really looks better. (Initially more work)

I also used it on some badly oxidized aircraft paint. It worked really well there, I wax it about every 6 months with mequires cleaner wax and it cleans up well

After Polishing

at purchase

Lear with poli-glow over 10 year old paint, 2 years after initial application with waxing every 6 months or so...

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2009 : 19:55:16

Jeff,

Your boat looks really nice. Let me know the next time you're down in the Houston area and I'll let you do mine just to keep in practice!

The Lear looks nice too! I wonder if Poli-Glow would work on an old car?

What kind of plane is that in the background with the bubble canopy?

Edited by - GaryB on 04/05/2009 19:56:48

Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 19:16:48

Update:
Poliglow kit arrived today in mail.

Contents:
Poliglow
Poli Prep
Sponge
Applicator
Gloves

No rush to apply it. We expect snow tomorrow. I have to do a better job of cleaning the hull.

I'll update again later when I make better progress.

Deric

Edited by - on

Jefffriday
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 08:30:48

Gary, It's an optical illusion, the silver verticle stab is conquest (c-441) with the rudder removed, there are 3 Challengers behind that, I don't know what it is appearing to be a canopy...

Derek, keep a bucket of water handy to rinse the applicator often, it helps when it starts to get sticky. I found some light wet sanding with 400 or 600 nessacary on the worst of my oxidation, then polyglow right over that... good luck, it goes really quick, I put on 6 coats in a little over an hour...

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 10:57:43

The VertGlass kit comes with oxidation remover, PH balanced wash, VertGlass Restorer, and remover. I removed all of my oxidation with Softscrub with Bleach rather than the chemical provided by VertGlass. Then washed the boat with the ph balanced wash and applied VertGlass. After the wash there was no oxidation. I always worked an area between stanchions to keep track of my progress, working top to bottom then moving to the next section. I began on the transom to develop technique as for how much should be on the applicator and such.
I have always used Softscrub on my decks and cockpits, I never want shine on a deck or cockpit. I do not want the glare nor the reflected UV on my skin. I like the matt results of Softscrub.

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