Association Forum - wood refinish

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

wood refinish

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Page: of 3

olympia marie
Deckhand

Member Avatar

2 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/27/2009 : 16:13:45

I have a '77 catalina 25. I would like to refinish the wood on the outside. Does anybody have any suggestions? I am just not sure about the teak wood. Some sites say you can sand it down and use polyurathane, then others say just to use teak oil. I need some advice.

Edited by - on

seabreeze
Deckhand

Members Avatar

18 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2009 : 16:31:29

I found that polyurethane will peel off with the sun. Teak oil is the best, and you can get it cheaper at Ace hardware than the marine stores. You can do several coats, and also clean before applying if needed.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2009 : 17:22:31

Every times this comes up Cetol is in the discussion. Do a search on "Cetol" in the general and C25 forums and you will see a lot of different options and opinions. Be prepared to be reading for a long time though. This is one of the more discussed topics in this forum.

Edited by - on

Deric
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2009 : 17:57:58

Joe,
You are correct, this topic is popular, and recurring. It almost prompts one to think about having a link on the website dedicated to the topic in and of itself.

Lot's of information in the threads here. Performing a search would be best way to research.

Good luck,
Deric

Edited by - on

Tom Gauntt
Navigator

Members Avatar

204 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2009 : 21:26:25

Do all the research you want, and then go buy a quart of Cetol.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3467 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 03:31:29

I use Cetol and it works very well for me. I just wash/scrub the wood and then put two coats on. That lasts about 6 months and then I repeat the process. Cetol is like a very light varnish. It is easy to work with, perhaps not as strong adhering as a varnish but believe it is easier for keeping up the maintenance on it and it lasts at least a season or longer. But I also keep my boat in the water all year and the Cetol works well under those conditions with little attention to it.

Teak oil is in my opinion best. It has the nicest and natural look to it. But my experience with it eons ago was that you have to be prepared to attend to it at least in mid-season or perhaps twice during the season, otherwise, teak oil starts to wither, wood turns grey and then you have to bring it back to parade-rest by bleaching it out and starting over again. If you frequently visit your boat and doing maintenance, etc is relatively easy for you time-wise, then teak oil is the way to go. I tend to mostly do maintenance during the off season and procrastinate on maintenance during the season and so that is one reason I go with Cetol as a compromise for not going with teak oil.

You can also prolong the life of whatever you treat the wood with by buying those sunbrella covers for the wood rails, etc and then covering up the wood for all times when you are not sailing. If I ever get around to going that route....then teak oil or varnish would be more palatable for me. For example, my tiller is treated with varnish and when not sailing it always has a tiller cover on it. I do not believe the PO ever revarnished the tiller and in almost the 4 years I have had the boat, I never have revarnished the tiller and it looks great !!

So....the decision on what to treat the wood has a lot to do with some other factors and how each person views them.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 06:01:57

One thing makes teak different from just about all other woods in regard to finishing... the oil in it. That oil, when sun heats it, can cause varnish or polyurethane to lift off and crack, after which you have to remove it and refinish--a big job. Cetol is slightly permeable, and allows the teak to "breathe" a little. It's also much softer, so it tends to wear away, but you can add a coat or touch up with very little preparation.

There are now three color versions (the pigments add UV protection) plus a gloss version (with no pigment) that's meant to be a top-coat over the others. I use the original Cetol Marine with no gloss topcoat, for a satin finish--tried the new Natural Teak, but decided it was more yellow than I preferred. As always, YMMV.

Edited by - on

fpill
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 06:57:41

I'm a Cetol fan. I used the Cetol natural this past spring, and it was easy to use. I leave the boat uncovered and the Cetol is holding up fine here in the North East. I like the look, and hopefully this winter, when I touch up any worn spots, will be the real reason I used it. I never want to remove polyurethane/varnish again. I tried using thinner, heat guns, thinner with methylene chloride(really bad for you), it was not fun. I hope this winter I'll just mask off the areas I want to touch up and have at it.
I did not Cetol the tiller last year, so I still have to strip it this winter. It will be a reminder why I switched.

I hope this helps.

P.S. I did not use the gloss overcoat.

Edited by - on

Peregrine
Admiral

Members Avatar

830 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 07:31:50

Armada

Is like Cetol, I just like the color better. I use "satin" not the high gloss.
Cetol has gone a long way twards getting rid of the orange tinge but Armada is IMO much closer to a "varnish" look.
It works and lasts like Cetol.

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 10:53:49

Whatever you settle on you have to resign yourself to periodic maintenance to keep your teak looking good. I for one would rather be putting my time on the boat sailing rather than maintaining. I haven't done it yet but have long considered replacing the teak handrails with "poly-fiber(?)-plastic rails or with stainless tubing. The plastic rails are more expensive than stainless but using stainless means plugging bore holes in the cabin roof. Still, a labor saving alternative for the long-haul.

Edited by - on

rustynbigd
1st Mate

Members Avatar

31 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 12:43:07

Well, I broke down and gave the Epiphane Varnish I got at West Marine a go. I put 6 coats on the companionway boards to see what it would look like and they look great. I had used Cetol previously. The work was dead hard, though. I am not a good furniture refinisher, so I really didn't know what I was doing. I sanded them down to the bare teak, then applied each coat, lightly sanding in between. It was about 95 degrees the day I was doing it so the varnish dried a tad quickly, and I also just brushed the sweat that dripped from my brow on into the coat. I plan to do the rest of the teak this fall when the cold front hits and takes us down to about 80 or so.

Edited by - on

John Pittman
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
44 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 15:54:30

Nice, I also use Epifanes.
Its alot of work some say but I think our boats are worth it.
I applied 7 or 8 coats to the outside wood work last spring and it still looks great.
It takes alot of patience, and has to be done just so, cool weather,applied in the shade,light sanding between coats, multiple tack cloths ect.
I did learn that you need to be careful with the masking tape, dont leave it on for to many days or its hard to get off. Its temping to keep applying coats because its just gets better and better but the sun can really bake the tape on in conjunction to the varnish glueing the tape down.
P.S. though its more work I dont think anyone will argue that a quality varnish finish produces the best results!!!

Edited by - John Pittman on 08/28/2009 16:49:51

olympia marie
Deckhand

Members Avatar

2 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2009 : 16:41:22

Thanks everybody for your advice!

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

Members Avatar

921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2009 : 05:36:28

If you like Ephifanes, try Interlux's Schooner 96. I think it flows on nicer.
Use a Scotch brite to scuff the surface between coats and only sand every third coat with 220 grit.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5378 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2009 : 08:36:37

to net it all out, I sanded the old stuff off, cleaned it with acetone, gave it 5 coats of Deks Oljies, gave it 5 coats of Sikkens Cetol (original recipe) and it turned out like this:

Companionway crib boards, cabintop endcap and handle

Only problem - I started the project in January and finished up in March

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2009 : 19:01:10

Concur on Cetol.

Edited by - on

michaelj
Navigator

Members Avatar

132 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2009 : 03:47:12

I just did this on my '81. I removed the wood from the boat, then cleaned it with TSP and a synthetic fiber bristle brush. After drying, I applied three coats of Sikkens Cetol (your choice of color) at 24 hr. intervals. It looks great! The only thing you will have a problem with is the cabin trim. The vertical pieces on my boat were glued in place and had to be done on the boat. The horizontal pieces above them have wooden plugs covering the screws which have to be drilled out. Be careful about spills; Cetol will instantly stain the fiberglass and is very hard to get out.

Edited by - on

Even Chance
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
393 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2009 : 15:51:03

Interesting article in this month's "Good Old Boat" about Bristol Finish. I've seen it advertised, and wondered.

I used to use Armada, but went to varnish. I'm considering the Bristol Finish, given what the article says. Cetol looks to "plasticky" for me.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/31/2009 : 18:32:35

See the following threads...

http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19829&SearchTerms=Bristol

http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17561&SearchTerms=Bristol

http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19208&SearchTerms=Bristol

I think you'll conclude that Frank Gloss won't be featured in Bristol Finish ads.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/01/2009 : 18:23:13

I put on 3 coats of Watco teak oil from Lowe's (I think Frank mentioned it when he still had a C-25) in January in Florida to cover me until I could Cetol everything, but it lasted until June when I put on 2 refresher coats. Paint it on generously, let it sit for 15 min., and wipe it off. It's incredibly easy and has proven so durable that I have forgotten about Cetol

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

Members Avatar

921 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2009 : 05:48:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">..... I have forgotten about Cetol<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I couldn't agree more

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2009 : 06:39:19

I was waiting for the oilers!!

Edited by - on

Delilah
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 10:17:48

I just about have all of my interior teak refinished. Started over the summer taking a hand full home after our day of sailing. Varnish it over the next week or so and then bring back down and install. I am down to a couple of the bulkheads, the forward sink area and the galley counter trim.....It has been fun and looks great! I am not sure who had the right idea to stain teak with cherry coloring but I am glad to be rid of it![img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1df28b3127ccefc471490391c00000030O00AatW7lwzbtGYPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400//img]

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 10:48:15

Pssst--change //img ] to [ /img ] (without the spaces).

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/09/2011 10:48:56

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 11:31:47

It is really pretty simple, read Practical Sailor's ongoing tests, decide how much work you are willing to do to get and maintain the finish, and go. Varnish is very labor intensive in initial application, requires annual maintenance, and needs to be stripped and redone from scratch every few years, but it is the only option if your really want the gold-plater wet look. Cetol and equivalents are less labor intensive initially and a lot less work to touch up and re-coat every year or two with a different look. Oils are minimal labor initially, require nothing but a wash to re-coat, but must be reapplied from every couple of weeks to every season, depending on the product

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 12:23:29

And then there's [url="http://www.semcoteakproducts.com/semco_products.htm"]Semco[/url]... sort of a hybrid between teak oil and finishes like Cetol and Armada. The look is more like oil (or, if you prefer, weathered teak), but the weather, sun and mildew protection is apparently more like Cetol. Friends use it on their classic cutter, and I'm thinking about stripping my Cetol and going with Semco this winter--still undecided.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/09/2011 12:25:05

Page: of 3

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.