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wood refinish

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DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 12:42:46

Wow Any, that's some pretty stuff!

Edited by - on

Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 18:07:34

Thanks for fixing my picture link Dave. We had a Hans Christian for years that was VERY teak heavy and some of the boats I have captained had lots of teak so I have lots of practice! Now it is kind of fun! I will get some better pics other than phone pics soon....

Edited by - on

Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2011 : 20:31:49

Kind of off topic but did anyone else decorate for Christmas?

Edited by - on

skybird
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2011 : 22:33:43

makes mine look pretty anemic--i just outlined the sailplan with lights and it looked like a 40' tall Christmas tree on the trailer in front of the house See 2nd picture link on my signature

Edited by - skybird on 01/12/2011 22:35:02

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2011 : 09:47:09

Kind of off topic, but My friend with the C-27 took his hand rails off the top of the cabin house and installed them through the same holes on the interior of the cabin where you end up actually using them when down below and the boat is heeling. It looks good and is way more functional IMHO.

He gave me his old rail covers, the rails are the exact same size on both boats. I don't know about you, but with the exception of looping a halyard or two around the hand rails, I never use them.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2011 : 16:42:27

Peter, I wouldn't be without them above decks - especially after last years race season that saw 3 races in over 25 knots and one over 40 kts. You need grab rails in those conditions.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2011 : 18:21:17

It is possible to install hand-rails inside and out with the same bolts, although you'll likely want them in different locations--more toward the centerline down below.

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Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2011 : 18:57:10

That is what I thought about doing shortly after we bought Leela but after a little time on board and being just over 6'4" I thought better of it. It is actually the wife that hits her head more than me...I guess I am used to ducking.
I would think you could do that though line them up directly below the deck ones. I am with Prospector and would not ditch them on deck.....

Edited by - Delilah on 01/13/2011 19:03:18

Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2011 : 19:01:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by skybird
 makes mine look pretty anemic--i just outlined the sailplan with lights and it looked like a 40' tall Christmas tree on the trailer in front of the house See 2nd picture link on my signature
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It was a fair bit of work but looked nice! It won us First Place out of 28 boats. Got a nice little trophy. I actually had one more 8' length of cane to go up but due to rope angles and stability issues it was abandoned.....much to the dismay of the first mate but relief of the captain!

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2011 : 07:38:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 It is possible to install hand-rails inside and out with the same bolts, although you'll likely want them in different locations--more toward the centerline down below.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yup - you just replace the bolts with threaded rod, cut to appropriate lengeth for each location, but it is definately a 2-person installation. Not something I have done, or would want to do on my boat, but it works. I find our cabin small enough that most guests have little trouble grabbing on eof the pop top legs or any of the other appendages already there while underway.

Ferenc Mate suggests grab ropes - simply a line with a Monkey's fist at teh end hanging from the rafters as an alternative to grab Rails inside - kinda like the straps on a city bus. Sounds interesting, but again, not for me. At least they wouldn't hurt when you hit your head on them.

Edited by - on

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1778 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2011 : 12:31:19

Semco looks interesting. I have natural teak (no varnish/surface finish) on exterior teak that I clean and oil at the beginning of the season and touch up mid-season (the end of July as in New England the seasons are only 5-6 months). Would love to find a finish that lasts longer, requires less deep cleaning before application and holds it's looks -- and avoids the annual varnish ritual.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2011 : 18:59:59

Ahhh, the perfect finish. Looks like varnish, requires no stripping, lasts 5 years, goes on like oil. Call me when you find it

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2011 : 09:55:44

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 Ahhh, the perfect finish. Looks like varnish, requires no stripping, lasts 5 years, goes on like oil. Call me when you find it
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">[url="http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1_79&osCsid=46efa284053422889cd6875832f61e7f"]PlasTeak[/url]. ...except it looks more like freshly oiled teak (from a distance), lasts way more than five years, and goes on like wood.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/16/2011 09:59:13

ckroll
1st Mate

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50 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2011 : 11:26:08

Closing in on a restore with my first C25 (80') and opted for the teak oil route. Pretty easy job with "satisfactory" results. We are not going for a show winner but do want something easy to maintain and respectable in appearance. I think with the teak oil route we made a pretty good decision and accomplished both goals. Came out a little darker than I was expecting but still looks sharp IMO.

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2011 : 12:48:53

I've heard great things about Teaqua

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Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2011 : 22:23:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PCP777
 I've heard great things about Teaqua
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Not me!!! I always have a heck of a hangover the next day when I drink the stuff.....!

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BernieM
1st Mate

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29 Posts

Response Posted - 01/31/2011 : 13:12:57

I'm currently in the process of refinishing my tiller while the weather is still ugly...looks like 6-8 more inches of snow in the next couple days.

I've already stripped the old varnish off and given it a rough sand to smooth out the nicks and scratches. I am at the point where I'm trying to bleach the gray spots where the varnish was chipped off from a few years of weather. I'm using pure oxalic acid wood bleach to try and lighten the spots. I've applied the acid/water mixture a couple of times using a scotchbrite pad and even let it sit overnight, but I don't seem to be making much progress in making the spots any lighter. Is there any specific bleaching method I should be using that might make it more effective?

Here is a picture of the sanded tiller after I wiped it down with some mineral spirits. The mineral spirits make the gray spots turn much darker, which I assume is probably similar to what the varnish will do once I try to apply it-not exactly the finish I'm looking for.

Edited by - on

Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 01/31/2011 : 14:31:28

I have never heard of bleaching to get the sun/weather penetrations out. I was taught by Antiguans that varnished for a living and they said you had to sand down until you had all the gray out and were down to pure clean wood. They called it getting the sun out.

I did my companionway boards this summer and cut corners just a bit and did not quite get all the gray out and even with just oil it did not last and started breaking through at those spots....

Just my thoughts...

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 01/31/2011 : 14:46:37

Andy, My understanding of Cetol is that it eliminates the need to sand as deeply. I may be wrong though. I have also heard of using oxalic acid to lift the colour in teh darkened wood. When we did our wood last season we sanded lightly then used teh cetol and were happy with teh outcome. I will be hitting a few more boards this summer.

Edited by - on

BernieM
1st Mate

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29 Posts

Response Posted - 01/31/2011 : 15:52:53

Not sure why my image above didn't work...it looked ok in the preview.

Edited by - on

skybird
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 01/31/2011 : 21:07:16

I just redid my step pads on the coaming yesterday to see how it would go. They had previously been varnished. I had to do a little light sanding to finish lifting the varnish that was left and then scrubbed with a sponge/scrubbee thing and Starbrite non-acidic teak cleaner. Let it dry and sealed with 3 coats of Semco Natural. Reinstalled they are dry and still have the look of clean wet teak.

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Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 02/02/2011 : 14:12:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by BernieM
 Not sure why my image above didn't work...it looked ok in the preview.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That does look pretty bad......Just have to sand the heck out of it. Obviously evenly, not spot sanding, or it will end up like a golf ball! On most of the trim pieces that I have sanded I started with 80 then 100 then 220 and a scruffy between coats. I have even gone to 500 before on some things I have varnished but not on this boat.

I guess this is assuming you are varnishing and not cetoling......I am not a fan of cetol and have never used it......just worked on getting it off the wood and everything else where others have used it.

You will be pleased with the outcome if you go with varnish. It is all in the prep and if done correctly is not that bad to do really.

Edited by - on

BernieM
1st Mate

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29 Posts

Response Posted - 02/02/2011 : 17:10:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">[i]Originally posted by Delilah

That does look pretty bad......Just have to sand the heck out of it. Obviously evenly, not spot sanding, or it will end up like a golf ball! On most of the trim pieces that I have sanded I started with 80 then 100 then 220 and a scruffy between coats. I have even gone to 500 before on some things I have varnished but not on this boat.

I guess this is assuming you are varnishing and not cetoling......I am not a fan of cetol and have never used it......just worked on getting it off the wood and everything else where others have used it.

You will be pleased with the outcome if you go with varnish. It is all in the prep and if done correctly is not that bad to do really.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I am indeed going to varnish, but I was a little afraid of doing too much sanding and ruining the shape. How far down do you usually have to sand? I've been using 100 grit and it doesn't look like I've made much progress on getting the spots out. I suppose I'll go get some 80 and see how that works.

Edited by - on

Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 02/02/2011 : 17:45:50

I even got a couple sheets of 40 for the companionway steps when I did them. The lower you go in grit you just have to follow the steps back up to 220 or so. How far you take it is up to you. I had some pretty good gouges and dings and I got most of them faired out. Like I said above though if you do not get that black/grey out I am just afraid it will not last.....when you do get the tiller varnished up have the wife or you throw together a cover to protect it! As far as how far down...you got to try and get all that grey out....I would move to 40 grit.
My tiller is the last piece that has the cetol on it....the problem is I have been able to sail with all the other pieces in and out of Leela still in the garage but I haven't figured out how I am gonna get around with the tiller in the garage! We use her almost every weekend......I am gonna have to pick a weekend and just do it I am afraid....:(

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Delilah
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 02/03/2011 : 18:10:44

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