Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The PO had installed a water "bag" in place of the tank that came with the boat. The bag is a mess. I've tried to clean it out but I just can't get to some of the black crap that has found a warm moist home in the bag. I'd like to put a fixed tank back in. I noticed that the tanks from catalina direct dome with a vent hole. I don't have a vent on the my 1980 catalina 25 on the water side. I've also seen references in older posts about the original water tanks not being vented. So, when i install this thing, should I cap the vent hole or install a vent on the deck?
I've seen other posts about doing away with the tank altogether. We've tried that for a while and we'd like a tank. One thing I plan to do is install a 6 inch port in the top of the tank to serve as a clean out.
My tank is vented through the deck fitting; the vent line runs parallel to the fill line. Without a vent fitting, pumping water out will create negative pressure and the flow will stop or the tank will collapse. Filling would also be a slow and wet process.
The vent on my '82 is quite simple. The tank has three connection points: one for the fill line, one for the supply line to the boat, and one for the vent. The vent line is simply a single line that comes off the top of the water tank and blindly terminates behind the back of the starboard settee. No real magic - as we say in aviation "works great, lasts a long time."
I think a vent line would really make the system work better, in my opinion. It would make it easier to fill and much easier to empty (think running your outboard without the vent open on the tank). I like your idea of adding the cleanout port. The tank in "Lil" (factory from Catalina) has a large port on top for cleaning. Over last winter, I completely replaced all the water lines, removed and cleaned the tank, and rebuilt the "flipper" faucets. What was in there was pretty gross, the faucets being the worst culprits. A little bleach and a tincture of soaking time had the tank looking and smelling like new. The cleanout port really helped.
One thing I plan to do is install a 6 inch port in the top of the tank to serve as a clean out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> This is a very good thing to do and is an easy project. In addition to providing easy cleanout, you can get every last drop of water out of the tank for winter storage.
Follow-up question: How is the tank held in place? I don't have the benefit of seeing how the old one was installed. I plan to build a platform to set it. Do I just use some webbed straps?
On "Lil", the water tank is custom fit for the void. It's kind of a weird trapezoid looking thing that fits right in place. The plywood top is then screwed down securing everything.
If you go with a standard size tank, you'll probably want to build some kind of base to secure it to. The other thing you could do is search the "Swap Meet" here on the forum for someone looking to rid themselves of a tank. Craigslist and eBay searches might prove useful too. If you go to "Swap Meet", txbigfoot is parting out a 1980 C25. I don't know if he still has a tank, but it might be worth asking him.
The vent behind the settee is a great idea. My tank vents up on deck, but I cannot find a vent fitting that has enough threads to go through the deck. The vent should really go through the cabin sides above the deck but on the C25, the coach sides are just as thick. I am going to have to buy a piece of stainless and make my own on the lathe.
I have an original equipment Catalina 25 fresh water tank I'd be happy to sell! You can contact me at <SailinCat at Yahoo dot com> if interested.
For mounting I suggest an epoxy coated plywood shelf. For hold downs, either web straps, or design the shelf so the tank is tight up against the underside of the settee.
Rigid tanks require vents. The end of the vent needs to be higher than the deck filler. Interior vents can make a mess if they overflow during filling. Exterior vents are subject to contamination, and usually require another hole in the boat. A cool alternative would be to route the vent up inside a lifeline stanchion with a filter on the end.
A Beckson style clean out port large enough for your arm is essential.
Re: "<i>If I remove the wood covering the settee will it lift out through the top of the settee or would I have to cut a larger opening?</i>"
Can't say for sure about your '89, but in my '79 C-25 I was able to wiggle the stock tank out through the stock openings after removing the wooden factory support brackets. They didn't plan on it coming out easily, but they did install it after mating the hull and liner. I suggest before removing your tank, mark on top where you could add a large clean out access, such as a Beckson plate.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />Here's what I did on my '77
Your site will be great resource for this project. I'd love to look at some of your other project pages as well, but the links didn't work for me. You have several projects that I am considering or have done and would love to check out your efforts.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />I have an original equipment Catalina 25 fresh water tank I'd be happy to sell! You can contact me at <SailinCat at Yahoo dot com> if interested.
For mounting I suggest an epoxy coated plywood shelf. For hold downs, either web straps, or design the shelf so the tank is tight up against the underside of the settee.
Rigid tanks require vents. The end of the vent needs to be higher than the deck filler. Interior vents can make a mess if they overflow during filling. Exterior vents are subject to contamination, and usually require another hole in the boat. A cool alternative would be to route the vent up inside a lifeline stanchion with a filter on the end.
A Beckson style clean out port large enough for your arm is essential.
Thanks for the info and the offer. I'm going to go with a new tank, though. The vent in the stanchion idea is pretty interesting. I don't know if I'll do it but it is very clever.
I looked into doing that on my '77 but there is not a stancion available without cutting a hole in a bulkhead. It would work if there was a stancion in the head area but there isn't. I'll fix the links as soon as I acn.
I think some of us might be making this vent thing harder than it need be.
First of all, it's just fresh water, not black water, or gasoline, or rum. The reason to have the vent line exit by the fill hole is to know when the tank is full. I would be cautious about having the vent line inside a stanchion... if the tank were filled fast enough, our old friends Bernoulli and Venturi tell us that the decrease in pressure at the vent line connection would cause the water to increase its velocity out of the top of the vent line, thus filling up the inside of your stanchion with water. Having a little water in bilge is no biggie. Having a water-logged stanchion might lead to problems such as leaks, core damage, and delamination.
Secondly, the stock water tank holds over fifteen gallons of water. That's a lot of water (and ballast) to come out of a little manual flipper pump. Remember, it's all gonna come out at the end of the season eventually.
Third, what are your "real" water needs on any trip? We use it to wash hands and a few dishes/utensils, but I wouldn't drink it unless I really, really, had to. It's too easy to get sick from dirty water and too easy to bring bottles or jugs with you for potable water.
I keep the tank about half full and put a gallon or two in depending on how much water we use.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The reason to have the vent line exit by the fill hole is to know when the tank is full.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Agreed, but again, the deck is too thick for an off the shelf vent to fit. I put mine on deck just like the waste tank vent, then I pulled the waste tank out and found it wasn't threaded on at all, it just looked like it. It's not always that simple. I cannot find any vent fitting that will fit through our deck. I will have to make mine on the lathe. If you can find them for us, please do and post the results. If you need a vent and can't find one. I'll make you one. Buck Algonquin makes about the longest vents and it isn't long enough.
When I had my C-25, I replaced all the hoses and rebuilt the pumps. My vent line was a simple piece of hose going up behind the starboard settee like others mentioned. This is simple and prevents contamination of water entering a deck vent. So, maybe when heeling way over, a little bit leaks into the bilge, no big deal. For filling the tank, I didn't even use the deck fill. I just opened the 6" opening on the top and would drain my collapsible 5 gallon jugs into the tank. I always brought water from my home because the water at my marina was murky at times.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Agreed, but again, the deck is too thick for an off the shelf vent to fit. I put mine on deck just like the waste tank vent, then I pulled the waste tank out and found it wasn't threaded on at all, it just looked like it. It's not always that simple. I cannot find any vent fitting that will fit through our deck. I will have to make mine on the lathe. If you can find them for us, please do and post the results. If you need a vent and can't find one. I'll make you one.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Just an idea, but if you really wanted a vent to exit to the outside, I'd put it through the hull just below the rubrail rather than on the deck. It would still vent, you could tell when the tank was full, and it would be more protected from contamination. On big boats that use lots of water (shower, transom rinse down, anchor rinse down, heads, etc.) topping off the tank(s) is not a bad idea. Keeping a full tank on a C25 (especially with the batteries and outboard all on the starboard side) seems unnecessary. Now if you've installed a high-capacity ice maker for your margarita machine, I can see where you're coming from. And I like what you're thinking....
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Now if you've installed a high-capacity ice maker for your margarita machine, I can see where you're coming from. And I like what you're thinking<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That would require the vent going up to the top of the mast.
Have used the large port on the tank to keep it clean and use it for fill and end of the season water removal. Did move it forward so that both batteries could fit together on same side. The vent is a cap with a small hole which has never leaked. Got rid of the fill hose when I found it grew green plants and I use a filter on a hose when adding water. I learned to never trust water directly from anysource. Most parks and marina's have wooden water tanks that are not tested regularly if at all. I have been a water board member for years and good water takes good efforts.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.