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Mods you wish you'd never done?

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/08/2009 : 21:56:39

Building off of the Mods mods mods thread, what mods have you done that you ended up wishing you hadn't?

I can think of only one that I've done that I wish I'd done differently. When I installed our 2000 gph bilge pump, I cut a few corners running the hoses through the various panels I had to cut through. I don't regret the install at all, but I know it's going to bug me the whole time it's not right. Nothing is in danger of wearing through, but the chafing gear I put around the hoses where they went through panels is less than what I try to hold myself to, so I eventually want to fix it.

There are a couple of things I wish the PO's hadn't done. One of them installed the compass on the port side of the cockpit with a donut that looks like it's made of MDF that is starting to rot, plus the switch to illuminate it is run off of the cabin light in the head, which means that I have to turn on the cabin breaker, then turn on the switch in the head. The first time we were out at night, we had no idea where the switch for the light was, and it never occurred to us to look in the head for it. I haven't fixed this one yet, because technically it's not broken, but it is irritating to me. I eventually want to remove that compass, and replace it (on the starboard side) with a Plastimo 101 (the one you can read from both sides of the bulkhead), although I'm not sure I'll be able to now that I've mounted my VHF pretty close to where it'd be mounted and I'd be worried about magnetic interference.

Another was one of them screwing the antenna cable across the inside of the coach roof. This one was ugly, as well as dangerous, it was far too easy to snag the antenna cable. I've long since rerun the antenna coax and filled in the holes.

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor

Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --

Edited by - on

KD4AO
Navigator

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USA
202 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2009 : 07:18:43

This should be interesting. It seems like any mod that requires holes eventually winds up being second guessed. It may be helpful to include what you did to hide or patch whatever it was.

An example: when I purchased a previous 32 footer a few years ago I had the yard install an antenna at the top of the mast. The antenna was a half wave end fed verticle vhf which did not require grounding to work properly. It was mounted to the mast with an aluminum angle. The antenna was fastened to a thru wall barrel type PL-259 connector and the coax was fastened on the lower end of the barrel and through the mast down to the cabin. This antenna worked great on the 2M ham band and doubled on the Marine band as well. As time went on I was constantly having to replace shaft zincs on the prop shaft, about every month to 6 weeks. After a couple of years of trying virtually everything I could think of or that was suggested to solve the electrolisis problem, I finally got a bright idea that the engineers that designed the boat surely wouldn't have allowed such a problem in their original design. So, what had I done that messed it up, eventually it dawned on me that the antenna was grounded to the mast which resulted in battery negative being connected to the mast through the radio, something not intended in the original design. To prove it I disconnected the coax from the radio and left it that way except when sailing. BINGO no more zinc usage. I never did fix it properly because it was 50ft above the deck and I wasn't. I did make sure the new owner knew about it though.

Edited by - on

farrison
Navigator

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USA
166 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2009 : 10:11:56

A friend and I re-routed his new coax cable for his VHF on his Catalina '27. We drilled a new hole through the deck, about 3 inches from the base on the starboard side. Wouldn't you know it, with all the deck surface to drill through, we drilled right through the wires that feed the forward running lights. Not really a "bad" mod, just dumb bad luck.

Paul

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2009 : 11:26:18

Furler and Bimini. My boat was never any fun to sail after that, it was just a cruising platform.
From this

to this

I decided to sell the boat the next week.

Edited by - on

mlg3733
Navigator

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118 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2009 : 11:29:30

Yet the family looks as if they had a good time.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 11/09/2009 : 13:33:21

Ditto the comments about holes in the boat. The PO mounted the AutoHelm control head on the starboard coaming. When I removed and sold the AutoHelm it was a pain to figure out how to cover the 4" round hole.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/10/2009 : 10:56:42

One of the DPO's of my boat installed two winches...on the pop top!

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 11/10/2009 : 11:17:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I eventually want to remove that compass, and replace it (on the starboard side) with a Plastimo 101 (the one you can read from both sides of the bulkhead), although I'm not sure I'll be able to now that I've mounted my VHF pretty close to where it'd be mounted and I'd be worried about magnetic interference.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Whatever is the benefit of reading the compass from inside the cabin. It reads backwards anyway?
Ritchie makes a new compass made specifically for our sloped bulkheads up to 40 deg incline without that stupid tapered block.
It is the [url="http://www.ritchienavigation.com/catalog/product.jsp?op=pgroup&pgid=A1D272B3-1DD7-11DC-919C-86F3E007494B"]Venture SR-2[/url] and they are real nice.

Edited by - Happy D on 11/10/2009 11:18:10

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 11/10/2009 : 19:19:43

When the tide changes we swing through all kinds of variations due to tides, currents, and wind, if I can see that happening from inside the cabin I have a head's up to check the anchor. Plus I think it's cool.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 01:37:49

Interesting how hindsight can be so 20/20.

I see people with biminis and further see how little protection it can offer from the sun (depending on time of day and so on) but I'm still inclined to install one. Seems to be a nice feature when anchored for a meal or a read.

Edited by - on

Even Chance
Captain

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USA
393 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 04:36:52

OJ, the principal problem with a bimini on a stock C25 is that in order for the mainsheet to run clear, the bimini has to be pretty forward in the cockpit. Hopper's picture is a good example: the sun is obviously low, but only one person of the four in the cockpit is in the shade. His bimini is mounted on the coamings, which reduces its width. It's pretty difficult to move forward on deck with that configuration.

That's why I moved the mainsheet when I installed my bimini. After four years, I can testify it all works, especially in the dead of summer.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 07:21:38

While I agree that a bimini is not perfect I still wouldn't want to be without one. If you're further north it's not as crucial but in the south you'll fry without one. Mine has some zip-on sides that help out. It's easy to get it out of the way, just collapse it and lean it forward against the cabin. A mod I'd like to do is to put it on tracks. Brooke, would love to see a pic of your modified mainsheet.

Edited by - on

glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 07:21:59

Our bimini goes up at the start of the season, and stays up till she is pulled out in the fall. We install and remove the vinyl curtains as needed, but the top is always up. A permanent stainless steel frame instillation adds a great deal of rigidity to the bimini. This allows me to hold on to it when going forward. This is helpful because as Brook pointed out our boats are skinny on the gunwales. The lower the bimini is constructed the further aft it will be allowed to cover (this will also improve the area of sun coverage). Ours is low enough that I can look over it, but high enough to allow the pop top to rise. We also have an awning that extends from the end of the bimini aft to the stays. The awning is only put up at dock

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 11:26:56

Bought a 150 genoa for racing in light air. Turned out to be too large to efficently set and it was always backwinded by the main. I had it cut down to a 135 and added a furler the following year. Much happier now.

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 13:27:22

Not as much of a mod as a refurb - but when replacing the mainsheet, I bought a line a little larger in diameter, to make handling easier, problem, as a multiple purchase device, the line adds more weight between the blocks and it sags a bit in light winds. Of course in heavy winds we appreciate the thicker line...

Edited by - on

piseas
Former Treasurer

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USA
2017 Posts

Response Posted - 11/11/2009 : 14:58:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveR
 While I agree that a bimini is not perfect I still wouldn't want to be without one. If you're further north it's not as crucial but in the south you'll fry without one.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dave, I have to agree re the necessity to having a bimini. It took me 3 vendors to finally find the one I wanted and although not perfect, it offers me the best sun protection, especially in the cat bird seats which I can sit in and NOT bump my head on the cover.
I just removed the cover last week as it was getting a little chilly and wanted to get as much sun as I could to keep warm.
The problem with the one I have is that I can't fold it up as 2 bows are in front of the back stay. So I just unzip and remove the cover and manually place the bows behind the back stay and everything is out of the way.
You can see the pic below the Buddy and the Admiral are pretty well covered. Oh and I did move the mainsheet attachment point on the boom one foot forward. The pic shows it going straight up and not at the usual angle. The bimini is not mounted on the coamings as my preference.
Steve A

Edited by - piseas on 11/11/2009 15:05:36

Even Chance
Captain

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USA
393 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2009 : 08:15:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveR
 A mod I'd like to do is to put it on tracks. Brooke, would love to see a pic of your modified mainsheet.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Look in the C25 Tech Tips: click on the bimini.

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2009 : 09:13:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by aeckhart
 Bought a 150 genoa for racing in light air. Turned out to be too large to efficently set and it was always backwinded by the main. I had it cut down to a 135 and added a furler the following year. Much happier now.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Man that's really strange Al. I have a 150 and a 155 and rarely have any backwinding problems except with the 155 in extreeeeeamly light air and then it's because the boat is moving faster than the breeze.It must have been a weirdly cut sail. Has anyone else experienced this?

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2009 : 09:54:44

Usually the large sails backwind the main, (cause it to luff or collapse), not the other way around.

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2009 : 09:56:53

I run a light air 150% almost all the time and themain only gets backwinded if the genoa is overtrimmed when close hauled.
Al - did you check the genoa car positions each time you went out?

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2009 : 12:04:07

It's been so long I'd forgotten where my frustration lay. It was the main being back winded. The sail was made by Rolly Tasker - overseas I suspect.

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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2009 : 04:26:32

This past spring I dropped the mast and replaced the masthead sheaves, the halyards, coax cable and the anchor light...mods I had saved for over the past couple of years. Along with the coax I ran a small diameter nylon line through the conduit inside the mast in the event I ever needed to replace the electrical loom or run another cable. I used a length of stone mason's line I had in the garage - hot pink and left about a 4" tail extending from the bottom of the conduit.
<ul><li> First, after the first good rain storm, I discovered my new halyards were - you guessed it - hot pink about 1 ft in length near the bottom of the mast. Hopefully when I wash them this winter, most of that stain will wash out. </li>
<li> Second, on the very last sail of the season, the Admiral was on travel and I had the entire Lake to myself...glorious, that is until I tried to raise the jib. It became stuck about half way up and would neither raise nor lower. I fiddled with it for some time before it broke loose and I was able to raise it. Later in the day, however, I discovered I had no steaming or anchor lights. I am surmising that the tail of my messenger line entangled the jib halyard and wiring loom doing whatever damage. It appears this next spring I will be dropping my mast once again. </li></ul>

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2009 : 07:21:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by aeckhart
 Bought a 150 genoa for racing in light air. Turned out to be too large to efficently set and it was always backwinded by the main. I had it cut down to a 135 and added a furler the following year. Much happier now.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Sounds like your cars weren't back far enough, so the sail was "cupped" by too much downward pull and not enough aft pull. But 135 is a nice size on a C-25.

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2009 : 08:45:24

Dave,

I'm probably preaching to the choir here but,I have found since single handing that adjustments like the gib cars are near impossible when racing if you want to maintain any kind of boat speed. In any kind of breeze, I slacken the main sheet to use the auto pilot while going forward. The jib must then be luffed to allow adjustment of the car. When opposed by boats the size and speed in our fleet, the resulting loss in speed, even for just a few minutes, keeps you out off the prize list.

I like the 135 more than the 150 because it's easier to handle than the 150. It is certainly easier to sheet in when sailing alone. The same problem of car adjustment applies however. Since our Lake Superior races are 18-20 miles long, I have learned to plan my race a little better beforehand, particularly in regard to projected headings and average wind conditions. I select the headsail (110 or 135) and car position before getting out on the course. If I still need to change something to keep the boat moving it's generally a degree or two of heading.

This of course is not just a racing problem. It also applies to single handed cruising and day sailing. But then, sail shape & speed are not necessarily as critical so adjusting the gib car can be more readily accomplished under sail.

Edited by - aeckhart on 11/13/2009 08:50:14

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2009 : 08:52:05

Al - we never assume that our jib cars are correctly placed. We check them every time pre-race (depending upon the wind there can be as much as 4-6" difference in their placement.)
In anything but very heavy air, it is possible to move the car by standing on the jib sheet FORWARD of the car which unloads it enough to allow adjustment.

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2009 : 09:13:11

Al, a handy device for temporarily releaving pressure on a jib sheet, without loosing speed. is a "burden (burton) line". It is simply a short (10ft or so) line with a reefing hook tied into one end. When you want to re-position the a car put the hook into the jib clew tensin the line and cleat it (or tie it to the base of a stanchion) Then ease the active jib sheet and re-position the car. After re-tensioning the jib sheet remove the burden line. It's also a handy device to clear jammed sheet if you get a wrap.

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