Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Removing the Plexiglas hatch cover and placing it leaning against the coaming just for a minute nearly always resulted in the darn thing slip sliding flat and sometimes chipping fiberglass as it landed in the bottom or worse yet stepping and slipping on the cover. Now we've found a simple solution by clamping a slit open pressure hose on the bottom.
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
That looks like a good idea, do you just pop it on and off when you move the hatch cover? I'm assuming that it won't fit into the tracks, I know it wouldn't on mine. We certainly run into the same thing with ours.
We cut the hose short to fit roughly between the tracks enabling to close the hatch without removal... It will raise the position of the hatch cover somewhat which may create for some closing the top slider a bit tight. Perhaps there is a better solution?
Henk, Different strokes for different folks. My C250 still has the two cabin top winches. My hatch cover will fit between one of those winches and the lifeline stancion. Not a permanent deal but it serves the purpose while getting down inside and then putting it in its holder on the side of the companionway.
Yoiks, that sounds like a good way to lose your hatch cover over the side! I might do that while the boat's on the trailer, but I don't think I would if were in the water.
At least with ours, it's difficult to do so. Ours is all HPDE plastic, so not only is it kinda heavy, it's slippery. It takes two hands to seat it in the holder, which isn't always practical if the boat's pitching around. I know you've got handles on yours, and one of my projects for the winter is to add a handle to ours to make that easier to do.
Our boat has two hatch boards: The white standard HPDE plastic is used for locking up. It is heavy & slippery and as mentioned it needs two hands to bring it down. Number two, a homemade 3/8" clear Plexiglas board, is used when underway, at night, during rainy, stormy, colder days and of course star watching...
Both need to fit in the, (made slightly wider) standard holder below. Using a recessed handle would allow the hatch to be carried down with one hand and still fit snugly, at random, next to each other in the holder
I like the idea of the clear hatch board to be able to see out from inside, and hadn't thought about making a larger tray to capture two different hatch boards.
My plan for a handle would be to find the balance point of the HDPE board such that when you're holding it with one hand, it'll rotate to the correct angle to allow you to easily insert it into the holder below without needing a second hand to do so. Similarly you could pick up it from the holder one handed and drop it into the slots on either side with minor difficulty.
Balancing and sliding/picking it down/up using one hand sounds like an excellent idea... when ready please inform us...
Here is the holder with a slightly wider base accommodating both hatch covers. Note the small tapered teak wood insert added on the bottom of the holder...
Plexiglas hatch with removable teak closure strip. The wood is inserted mainly during cold or rainy weather and removed, as required, to allow for more ventilation... only problem you can't lock up the boat with this hatch... any suggestions??
I still have the standard white plastic hatch board. Two handles, one on the top back portion of the hatch half way accross and the other on the right hand side about half way up. One handed operation and fairly good balance. I only set the hatch between the winch and leaning on the stanchion when sliding the forward hatch open or closing. No problem
The handles make a big difference in handling the hatch. I guess I got lucky with the placement of the handles. I can lower the hatch into its holder using one handle (port handle) from the cockpit.
I like the idea of a clear hatch cover. In addition to letting in more light it would also serve as a safety item. A person in the cabin will be able to see the helmsman.
Henk, why can't you lock the boat with the shorter plexi hatch with the wood on top? Could you put the hasp on the wood?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I like the idea of a clear hatch cover. In addition to letting in more light it would also serve as a safety item. A person in the cabin will be able to see the helmsman. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
... and by facing equipment (depth sounder, GPS and other electronics you may have) aft toward the helmsman and mounted on the cabin side of the Plexiglas, during stormy, cold or rainy weather all will be usable, dry and protected. Note our Garmin depth sounder, with GPS suspended below, mounted on a swing arm just inside the Plexiglas.
Since the Plexiglas teak top rail is removable to allow for an approximately 2" ventilation opening, I suppose an extra long hasp could be fabricated, shaped and bolted to the clear hatch cover.
If thinking of making a Plexiglas hatch you may wish to consider 3/8" rather than 1/4" thick material. It can be cut by power saw, and edges smoothed by wood plane. Make sure you have eye protection!!
Henk, Here's an idea that supposes you wanted to make a new hatch cover. You could cut a section away from a full sized hatch so that you'd get ventilation, but leave a section on the starboard side full height to attach your hasp to. That way you'd get (most) of the ventilation, and the ability to lock the boat unless it was a very skinny thief.
You could probably do something similar by cutting down your teak rail, and drill & bolt a six inch piece in place to hold the hasp, you could still remove the other couple of feet for ventilation with the boat relatively securely locked. If you blind bolted the teak to the plastic, they couldn't just take a wrench to your bolts to remove it.
When I lock up the boat and closing the padlock I often think how stupid this is. I really dont think that the hasp and padlock are any match for a crowbar....But I still lock it anyway...
Totally agree that if someone seriously wants to get inside regardless of locks... they will.. probably even without tools! But... it feels better and perhaps may even deter someone. Anybody any suggestions?? A full size clip-on fabric hatch cover is in my opinion a better deterrent.
At one point, some winters ago, I experimented with trying to make a "hinging hatch", but almost straightaway gave up on that idea. Not sure it even can be done...
The way we see the teak strip on top of the Plexiglas hatch function is;
1) When the teak strip is not installed the small approx. 2" top slit opening will provide needed and welcome ventilation
2) Without the teak strip installed the rainwater from the fully closed sliding horizontal hatch above will still run/drip on the outside of the Plexiglas hatch without entering the cabin under normal condition... things stay dry. (Make the teak strip opening wider, say 3 inches, and rain water from the top, due to the slight slope of the Plexiglas hatch, will for sure pour down the hatch and inside the cabin).
3) You do want to install the teak strip when wind and rain are blowing from abaft or
4) To preserve heat inside the cabin and have that snug warm and cozy feeling with a good book and coffee brewing while having a great 360 degree view.
5) As was mentioned by Randy being able to see could provide safety & security when underway, on the hook or in port.
6) We continue to use the Plexiglas hatch mod. extensively and is, in our opinion, one of the best and most used!!
Suggestions by David and Scott for consideration: 1) One sided larger vent opening perhaps with sliding hatch rain (gutter) extension above?? 2) Better way of locking things...
Just to add a note of security for our boats I installed the smallest lock for least amount of damage it boat is broken into and added a RS personal alarm. The alarm is secured inside with a line to the hatch. The alarm plug with the line attached when pulled sets off a 80 dec sound and strobe light which might work to stop the breakin, like insurance it makes me feel better. A Portland boat that was broken into had the hatch kicked in and the lock was never touched. I've given away the surprise.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.