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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
It doesn't take long to do a basic rebuild with gaskets and O rings and that will likely solve it. If it is anything more, I would replace the head. WM even had an electric really cheap.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JudOWNED</i> <br />Well, more bad news, re: the head. I tried making sure the forward sink was plugged. No difference. I added some water to the bowl and the pump was barely able to empty it. It seemed like it emptied mostly through gravity. What’s worse is that I noticed some of the water leaking out near the bottom of the pump. I’m pretty sure the pump’s dead. Very frustrating. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I think you want to read up on "Joker valve" and then decide to replace. Not 100% sure though.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JudOWNED</i> <br />Well, more bad news, re: the head. I tried making sure the forward sink was plugged. No difference. I added some water to the bowl and the pump was barely able to empty it. It seemed like it emptied mostly through gravity. What’s worse is that I noticed some of the water leaking out near the bottom of the pump. I’m pretty sure the pump’s dead. Very frustrating. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That's exactly why I had to replace mine this past fall. Mine was the original head and I figured it was time for it to go.
I think mine was the original head as well. Does anyone know who the maker of that head was, or what other brand heads would fit without any (or many) modifications? We decided that we do want to replace it.
Good decision on the replacement...a few years ago I purchased the rebuild kit...almost half the price of a new head. With a rebuild you also need to be very careful when re-assembling..the plastic is very brittle. Hindsight says I should have invested in a new head. With regards to the water supply..When I purchased my boat I found a situation such as yours..no water being pumped into the bowl. I jumped over the side and located the thru hull that supplied the head...using a small screwdriver, I cleaned out the area which had become a home to several barnacles. Water flowed fine after that.
Is there a trcik to getting the water to drain from the sinks and icebox aside from openeing the through-hull valve? Because I tried that and it didn't drain.
Try a plunger in the sink with the ice box drain off, then plug the sink and plunge the icebox (with a little water in it) with the drain open. If that doesn't clear it, try passing a wire through the drain to loosen crud. Disconnect at the thru-hull and see if they will drain into a bucket to localize the obstruction. If you are in the water, secure a length of clear plastic tubing to the seacock long enough to be above the waterline and open the seacock to verify backflow. The problem is most commonly in the backflow valve in the icebox drain or foul growth in the thru-hull.
First, the leak may just be a loose hose clamp underneith the head or, most likely, a dry-rotted hose.
Secondly, the pump may not be pumping because there is a "flapper valve" inside the pump housing which may be stuck open or closed. This happened to mine once. The "flapper is rubber with a metal disk attached and activates when the flush-fill nob is opened or closed. Carefully remove the handle from the housing. Mine has six screws. The valve is plainly visible on top. It's most likely crudded up. Lift it up, clean it, and put some lubricant on it. I used a dab of vasoline.
Replace the handle but be very careful tightening the screws. They strip easily. I do this every season and have only stripped one screw so far. The holes can be repaired, after a fasion, with an epoxy filler.
Al gives sage advice. When I got my boat, one of the many things needing attention was the head. I tried everything I could think of short of rebuilding the dang thing and nothing worked. When I finally got around to pulling the head out and rebuilding it, I found a stainless steel screw stuck in the flapper valve of the pump! No telling how long it had been in there or how it got there. The screw most certainly screwed things up, by not allowing the valve to fully seat, there was no way to draw water in from outside. With the head all apart, it was easy to replace the various valves and gaskets (albeit a "Mike Rowe Dirty Job"). Now the head works like a champ!
Cool. I'll try taking it apart before purchasing a new one. But I have to say, my wife seems awfully partial to a nice new, white and clean head regardless.
Matt, Given that tidbit of information, give yourself an early birthday present and tell your wife it's HER early birthday present! Buy a new head and make her happy!
<< There's no connection between the sinks and the head. Each sink drain has a thru-hull. >>
Mine has no Thru-hull under the strbrd sink. The sink drain connects to the head thru-hull, which is kinda cool cause you can close the thru-hull and pump out the sink with the head.
It is fun to see the differences in the build out from boat to boat. I usually notice things in the pictures I see posted.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.