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Replacing the Anchor light

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5377 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/15/2010 : 19:47:50

Well, I went for my vessel safety check today with my US Power Squadron buddies, and wouldn't you know it? I flunked! Eeek!

I had my flares, life jackets, MarPol stickers, first aid kit, fire extinguishers the whole kit and kaboodle, but when I went to check my anchor light - NG.

Absolutely out of commission. I checked the fuse - good, I checked the deck connector - good, I checked the switch and the cable - good and good.

Then I got my ohmmeter and checked the other end of the deck connector. The steaming / bow light worked fine, but not a beep from the meter on the anchor light circuit! DANG!

I had bought a Dr LED anchor light some time ago, thinking that one of these days I'd replace it. Well, now's my chance.

But I'm also thinking - what if it's the mast-top receptacle that's bad - the light bulb socket? What about the wire running up the mast - what if it's that? Holy crap!

Catalina direct sells the all around anchor light, and the anchor light mast mount.

For those who have replaced them before, which bulb type is it? A Festoon bulb, or a twin contact bayonet bulb (or something else)?

Also, does it pay to replace the fixture and the mast mount at the same time?

They're cheap, so it's probably a good idea to have the yard master replace them while he's up the pole.

HELP - I think that this is going to be expensive!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

Voyager
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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2010 : 19:49:54

Oh - do members get a discount from CD? Where do you find the numbers or check the box?

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 06:13:45

I'm not sure why you would need to replace the mount???

The bulb type is festoon. You'll need this one for LED:
http://www.doctorled.com/f16.htm

Remember, it only goes in one way. So check that it works before you button it up and climb down the mast (if that's how you're doing it).

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 08:00:08

Thanks for that Jonathan
I put one of the Dr LED bulbs in the aft nav light. It works great.
I know what you mean about the polarity - I checked when I mounted it.

Reason I mentioned the mounting bracket because I only want to make one trip up the mast.

Edited by - Voyager on 05/16/2010 08:01:03

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 08:35:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 ...I only want to make one trip up the mast.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Where you're docked on the outside, with boats cruising up and down the river, I wouldn't make any trips up.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 18:26:40

It is nearly always corrosion in the fixture, and that can range from a little on the contacts to totally funky insides. It is less often a wiring issue, but will require dropping the mast if it is. If you are considering paying for yard staff to go up the mast, you should seriously consider spending $10 - $15 to build an A-frame and drop the mast or see what the yard would charge to drop it. If you choose to have it done, labor will be the biggest expense and it would probably be wise to replace the whole assembly

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 20:15:16

I would not go to the top of the mast myself at 200+ pounds. You see, I've calculated the moment my weight would create at 28 feet and it exceeds the keel's moment. Three years ago, the yard staff used a cherry picker to replace the current bulb. Since I've only used that bulb a total of maybe 40 hours in the past three years, I was surprised to find that it has failed. That's why I suspect the fixture and am planning to replace it along with the bulb.

Last year I did climb the mast using a ladder, but only to change the steaming/bow light and fixture which is only half-way up. But I will not be going to the top of the mast myself.

I have entertained the notion of dropping the mast, and I would have no compunction doing so if it were not for the head sail furler foil.

If I were to bend or dent the foil in any way, the replacement cost would probably far exceed the $100 - $150 fee for the yard guy and his cherry picker.

I would not be pleased however if the yard guy got up there and replaced the fixture & bulb, and the light STILL did not work. But let's take one step at a time . . .

Edited by - Voyager on 05/16/2010 20:19:17

Prospector
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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 04:47:47

I've been up there a couple times (I'm 160 lbs).

Find someone you really trust to stand on the dock and handle the halyards and stop foot traffic from going on deck to "help", tie things off like your life depends on it, and its not so bad.

Make sure its a calm day with little boat traffic.

On the way up, you can take a break at the spreaders to check that the sockets are in good shape, cotter pins are OK, and steaming light is in good shape.

What I find difficult is that up at the top, there is noplace to set down anything, and a tool belt can get hung up on stuff on the way up and down. A bucket on a second halyard can help with this, but have your person down below send it up after you are up there, otherwise it could get in the way of your ascent.

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 10:52:50

I'd rather take down the mast. Done it twice within my first year of ownership, and 3 guys make it a cakewalk.

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 14:53:02

If all you need to do is pass the inspection, and even for the occasional anchoring, why not just hoist an oil lantern up a halyard and call it a day? Doesn't HAVE to be an electronic light and I don't think the same 1 or 2 NM limit applies either.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 15:05:47

Visibility requirements are established and mandatory. However, portable all around lights for small are inexpensive and widely available; they are basically LED flashlights with a horizontal diffuser and vertical mount. Attach that to a halyard so that it extends above the mast to make it visible through 360º and you are legal and visible.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 16:09:49

I have a 360 degree Dr LED light in a two contact receptacle that I can hoist up the mast on a halyard. I use it to illuminate the cockpit at night, but it has a 40 foot cable on it. I also have an oil lantern.

While I can make the argument with the Coasties that I am legal, I'd rather have a gizmo up there that I can flip on and off, and make it really easy.

So, I plan to let the yard guy do it this weekend after the parts come in. But, as I asked before, as members, do we receive a discount at CD? Is there a code or coupon I can use??????

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 16:37:14

No discounts there, but nice ones other places. I didn't realize until my last Boat/US renewal that that had a discount.

Edited by - on

triley
Captain

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USA
251 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2010 : 20:00:43

You can use one of these as I do if I need to. It can be hauled 3/4ths the way up the forestay and at 30 watts shines out more than the 2nm required. 4 Batteries.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=196421

Edited by - on

Voyager
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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2010 : 15:52:50

The LED version is really nice, and I'll bet its pretty rugged too. I have the GE Steelbeam lantern, and it works great inside the cabin. No reason I could not hoist it up the mast....

http://www.rei.com/product/776518

Fluorescent lantern uses four rechargeable D batteries

Edited by - on

aeckhart
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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2010 : 10:37:29

Had the same problem. Bought an LED anchor light fixture and mounted it on the original anchor light mast. The LED I bought has a photocell. On at dusk, off at dawn. Neat.

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triley
Captain

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USA
251 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2010 : 18:19:38

Both of those seems like good bets. I am just on a lake, though. Outside of a somewhat scary 4th of July weekend when we fly all our lights and skedaddle back to the marina after fireworks are over, we generally play a defensive game at night, with a sandbar or on our port or starboard side and the anchor light for those boats that might be skirting the lake's shore.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2010 : 20:02:32

I just got an Aquasignal 360 degree Nav anchor light fixture. Along with a Dr LED festoon LED bulb.

Now all I have to do is shimmy up the mast and connect them up!

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 08:33:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 Now all I have to do is shimmy up the mast...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Let me know when so I stop by and watch--from the parking lot!

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Voyager
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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 18:31:59

Dave - our yard manager was up on someone else's mast in the cherry picker last week, but the mast was just 4 feet too tall, so I saw him jump out of the platform onto a waiting bosun's chair, swing around the damn mast and his guys hoisted him up the rest of the way.

My heart was in my mouth the whole time. I just wish I had my camera!

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 19:37:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 ...our yard manager was up on someone else's mast in the cherry picker last week, but the mast was just 4 feet too tall, so I saw him jump out of the platform onto a waiting bosun's chair, swing around the damn mast and his guys hoisted him up the rest of the way...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> ESTUPIDO GRANDE! If owned the yard and heard about that, I'd get another manager--immediately.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 06:20:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Three years ago, the yard staff used a cherry picker to replace the current bulb. Since I've only used that bulb a total of maybe 40 hours in the past three years, I was surprised to find that it has failed. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bruce, I wouldn't be surprised at all. More than likely the guy popped out the old bulb and inserted a new one and the light came on. Mission accomplished as far as he was concerned. Did he bother to clean up the brass tabs? Did he look at and clean up the wire connections? Did he coat the ends of the festoon bulb and the contacts with Dielectric Grease? If not then It wont take very long for it to again stop working.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 09:49:04

You know it. In the most recent episode, as I watched him hanging on up there, he tightened the nut on the windex, switched out the bulb, had the crew check the switch down below - light came on -check, looked at the shroud swages and cotter pins, and was back in the bucket in under 3 minutes.

I plan to supply them with:
- a new fixture,
- a pre-installed new LED bulb,
- several MIL-spec crimp connectors,
- new mounting bolts,
- a roll of black electrical tape
- and a set of instructions.
I've even pre-greased the connections.

I only expect them to have a philips (+) and flathead (-) screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a set of crimpers and know how to follow directions.

But then there's the rub - polarity! If the bulb is installed such that the positive and negative terminals are inverted with respect to the wiring (a 50-50 random variable), the bulb won't light.

Yard guy potential response?: "Your bulb was dead, so we replaced it with a regular bulb - $10.00, and we got rid of that no-good LED."

I've got to foolproof that possibility somehow because I don't believe I can change things down below at the connector. Maybe I can color code the connections on the fixture?

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 11:29:39

50-50 is pretty bad odds... Can't you add a step or two in the instructions to test the connections before crimping, heat-shrinking, etc.? Or, aren't the wires (+ and g) different colors (I hope)? If so, couldn't you figure out the right polarity from down below and then send them up with instructions to connect red here and black there, or whatever? If they can switch the circuit on to test the installation (and then replace the LED and throw it away), it would seem they could do the same before they crimp things together.

Edited by - on

islander
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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 13:08:48

I was going to suggest the same thing as Dave said. Use the deck socket to find out which way the wires have to be hooked up and label them for the guy.

Edited by - islander on 05/23/2010 14:25:35

Voyager
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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 21:34:31

Yep - I tried it out tonight - worked fine, except for one thing!
When they attach the socket to the wires, they have to remove the bulb.
When they replace the bulb, they may reinstall the bulb upside down!

I got a piece of masking tape and labeled everything:
(+) = green put it here on this screw.
(-) = white put it here on this screw.
I put a piece of masking tape on the bulb that says:
"this side up" on the top and
"this side down - turn it over" on the bottom.

Let's hope this does the trick....

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