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Replacing seacocks

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Alan Clark
Captain

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406 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/25/2010 : 19:10:58

On Leprechaun the seacock underneath the gally stove is not opening.

So after trying to release it, using mineral oil, WD 40 and Tri-flow,I have run out of options. Luckily the Seacock is Closed!

As long as we do not run water in from the gally sink we are OK until we haul the boat. Has anyone else replaced the seacocks and if so did you Catalina direct it or Catalina yachts it or Plumbing from store it? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Many Thanks..

Alan & Eileen
2001 Catalina 310 Hull #155
"Anam Cara"
ex-1987 C25 TR/SK #5612
"LEPRECHAUN"
Troy Ohio USA / Lake Erie-Catawba Island
ASA 101 103 104

"The clink of an anchor - chain, the 'Yo-Ho!' of a well time crew, the flapping of huge sails - I love all these sounds."

John 'Rob Roy' MacGregor

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edited by - on

JAB
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2010 : 20:09:29

Is it the three-quarter inch ball valve http://catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display& product_ID=338 made of Marelon reinforced nylon from Forespar and sold by Catalina Direct?

If so, the ball with the through-hole within it is held captive between two halves of the valve housing, which screw apart. Once you haul the boat (don't do this in the water

), you can partially unscrew the two halves, and the ball will rotate more easily.

A little waterproof grease is always a good idea, too.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 03:25:29

I have no suggestions on how to free it but can share my own experiences. My seacok near the main sink was very tight when I purchased my boat. It would turn but felt that with continued use, it eventually would break the handle or worse. Since my boat is in the water year-round, what I do during the annual pressure washing when they just lift the boat onto the land for about 20 minutes is to shove some synthetic grease up the seacock port and then when I get back into my finger slip, I cycle the valve a few times. Both my seacocks now are easy to open and close ever since I started doing this preventative maintenance annually.

I doubt this will work but I don't think there is any harm in trying it - If you have access to a heat gun, perhaps try heating up the valve a bit and see if that helps make the seating surfaces more pliable - If you can turn the valve, then I would leave it shut and next time boat is out for mtn, try the synthetic grease up the port opening to help lubricate the seating surfaces when the valve is then cycled.

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 06:29:49

I'm about to change out one of mine and I've decided to use the bronze Perko product from http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do.

I'm gonna have the other ones glassed over, or do it myself.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 07:59:52

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls&page=1

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 08:40:37

I really like the round 4 hole flange on the perko seacock. That way I'm sure I won't be able to get to one of the holes.

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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 08:45:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OJ
 http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls&page=1
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The only thing I might add to the installation sequence that OJ links to is this. When I replaced my thruhull and seacock I followed an idea posted by another contributor that suggested putting the mounting bolts through the backing plate before glassing the plate in place. This eliminates three holes going through the hull and their potential leaks etc while maintaining a solid attachment for the seacock. This process worked really well and I would recommend it to anyone.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2010 : 10:47:54

One hole through the hull is enough for me. Personally plastic works fine for me when the bottom all around me is sand ( and even better if the boat is docked in 6 feet of water. )

I'd say it depends on the specific application.

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Alan Clark
Captain

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406 Posts

Response Posted - 05/28/2010 : 07:36:53

Thanks everyone for the advice, Luckily the seacock is closed! Sooo, when I haul it out in the fall I can deal with it.. or if it loosens up, I am not sure I will mess with it too much, there is no need at this point.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/29/2010 : 05:05:31

The hardest one to change is the one under the galley sink.
I installed Forespar Marelon sea-cocks. They are indestructible. They were installed with 5200 because they can be serviced without removing them from the hull.
I think it would be hard to beat these off the hull with a sledge hammer.
No corrosion to worry about. They even come with a plug in the handle so you can plug the through hull to service the valve. Nice setup.
I installed mushroom heads, not flush heads.

[url="http://www.forespar.com/MarelonPlumbing/marelon93Series-OEM.shtml"]Forespar Series 93[/url]

Edited by - Happy D on 05/29/2010 05:06:49

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2010 : 07:38:41

[url="http://members.csinet.net/dhapp/th/through.hull.html"]Check this out[/url]

I replaced mine and here's the info.

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jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2010 : 06:03:56

my word of caution...PROTECT YOUR EYES...I was all OSHA approved w/ goggles and a particle mask while doing the work...then, just as I was finishing cleaning up the dust created by sanding down the 'volcano' - and had removed my goggles due to their getting steamed...a gust of wind blew through the hull opening and the remaining dust went right into my face, and both eyes...no permanent harm done, our optometrist had to manually clean out both eyes and a week of drops took care of things...but glass particles in the eyes is a bit scary...

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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2010 : 12:07:53

Agreed! I run a shop vac as close to the grinder as I can. I've actually cut through the end of the hose trying to keep it as close as possible. Hoses are cheap.
You have to watch the dust that lays on top of the goggles and in your eyebrows also.

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Alan Clark
Captain

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406 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2010 : 12:43:27

I am hoping to be able to UNSCREW the seacock and just screw the replacment back on. True or untrue?

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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2010 : 08:57:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Alan Clark
 I am hoping to be able to UNSCREW the seacock and just screw the replacment back on. True or untrue?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Untrue. If the seacock is installed as a seacock should be with the flange bolted to the hull, you would also need to unbolt it somehow. Otherwise it's not really a seacock. Its a ball valve on a thru hull which doesn't provide the same protection against breakage.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2010 : 06:33:01

That's one of the best features of the seacocks I used. You can service them without unbolting them. In fact they can be completely rebuilt without removing the king nut. Marelon so they will never corrode. And they can be through bolted to the hull, or not.
You are correct, a valve screwed onto the pipe is not a proper seacock or a proper way to do anything below the water line.

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