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 battery terminals melted !		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Capricorn
Deckhand

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Canada
12 Posts
Initially Posted - 08/03/2010 :  06:52:22  Show Profile
Bought C 25 in 08 with 12 volt marine battery attached to a solar recharger. Didn't launch in 2009.This year the voltmeter said the battery was charged, and I added a Davis photocell deck light with attachment to battery. Went away for 10 days and on return, found the battery dead with melted terminals and acid overflow.I have attached all connections according to proper polarity. Any idea why this occurred?? Wouldn't want this to happen again ! thanks
Edited by - on

HeelinPatrick
Navigator

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USA
102 Posts
Response Posted - 08/03/2010 :  10:43:56  Show Profile
Sounds like you overcharged the battery. If you over charge it, it 'cooks' the water off. By cook, I mean turning it to hydrogen and oxygen. And it will bubble the water, and thinking the acid made its way out along with the escaping gases. So, guessing either charger is too big, or didn't have charger modulator (not sure the correct name), but basically something that disconnects the solar panel when battery is full. I read somewhere that can safely, continiously charge a battery if the charge is no more than 1% of the battery's amps (can't remember if cranking amp, or amp hours, or what). But I figured at the time a decent sized battery can handle 5W, but no more than that. I have two battery's, and have a 10W charger
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts
Response Posted - 08/03/2010 :  13:19:26  Show Profile
Charge Controller. Thats why I have one even though I only have it on a 10 watt panel. If you don't have one, well .... These panels when unregulated can get as high as 17-22 volts. This is off a 12 volt panel.
Panel Specifications:
Max Power=18v
Max Current=2.5A
Open Circuit Voltage=21.6V
Short Circuit Current= 2.75A
Bypass diode
Tested at 25C
Edited by - islander on 08/03/2010 13:36:32
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts
Response Posted - 08/03/2010 :  19:56:58  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
Yup - Solar charge controller is the way to go. And not just for this problem. Ours also gives readouts of voltage and amps being drawn. You can flick circuits on and off and see how much you are drawing with different "stuff" realtime. The charge controller also prevents back-drain (forget teh word) of power through the solar panel at night, so its pretty much a winner all around.
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts
Response Posted - 08/04/2010 :  04:20:13  Show Profile
<< found the battery dead with melted terminals >>

An internet search came up with several references suggesting:

1. Poor terminal connections at the posts, saying this causes them to heat up.

You have such a small draw, with your normal use on this boat that it seems unlikely.

2. A bad ground. They said the bad ground caused the whole system to act like a filament in a bulb if it can't get to ground. Suggesting the ground is rusted out.


3. Another indicated the battery itself had grounded out, internally.


That's pretty wild, I've never seen that. I've caused a short when I was working on electrical on a boat, and the wires I shorted out sparked together and fried the wires, melted the insulation off the wires, dripping off in spots. Happened in about 3 seconds. It impressed me with the importance of fuses.

I've boiled a few batteries, charging, and they never melted down.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 08/04/2010 :  16:44:25  Show Profile
Melting requires high current and that means low resistance. My starter button shorted on my old motor and it melted the plug and receptacle that connected it to the boat; it took 10 - 15 seconds. It would be remotely possible on a flooded battery to boil electrolyte onto the top from over charging and short the terminals, but I would want to be sure there isn't a fault in the circuit between the battery and fuses as a more likely cause.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5372 Posts
Response Posted - 08/04/2010 :  20:17:35  Show Profile
They say, "never run a circuit from the battery without a fuse".

I bave three battery circuits:
(1) one that goes to the panel with a 40A fuse,
(2) one that goes to the engine starter and alternator with a 60A fusible link and a 50A circuit breaker and
(3) a solar charger/regulator with a 10A fuse.

I second the motion - "never run a circuit without a fuse"
Edited by - Voyager on 08/04/2010 20:19:56
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 08/05/2010 :  17:43:34  Show Profile
I agree, but I confess that I still don't have a fuse to the distribution panel, but the charger and motor circuit are fused. A couple of fall/winter projects include completing the protection.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5372 Posts
Response Posted - 08/05/2010 :  20:05:01  Show Profile
Dave B.
As a temporary measure, you can splice in an automotive fuse-holder with #10 AWG leads and a 30A fuse (buy a 10-pack of fuses).
Might be all of $20.00

It would be rare to pull more than 30A of power through the panel unless all the lights and radios were on and you were using an inverter.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 08/06/2010 :  13:40:54  Show Profile
Good point, and I have LED lights inside.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.