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New Stem Fitting

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/02/2010 : 17:57:04

Just finished the stem fitting upgrade. Thought I'd share the pictures of the task. Went fairly smooth. Replacing the rub rail was the hardest part. I feel more comfortable having the longer chain plate down the bow. Looking forward to using the roller too.
http://cmd.shutterfly.com/commands/pictures/slideshow?site=catalina25& page=catalina25/pictures& album=8

Mark-
'Impulse...�
1978 C25 #533 SR/DIN/FIN ~_/)~
Bakersfield, CA.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2010 : 22:34:09

Looks good and you get peace of mind. The roller is sure a good upgrade too. Nice job.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 06:48:56

Nice job. I bet the rubrail was a bear. I couldn't help but notice in one of the pics (fifth one) that a few of the bolts for the forward posts of the bow pulpit appear to be pulling through the deck. Did you address that problem while you were in there? also, the underside looks like exposed wood. Is that whole section there a wood backing plate?

Edited by - dmpilc on 11/03/2010 06:52:50

Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 07:08:08

Good eye. That's next up on the list. The wood there really isn't as bad as the picture shows but it does need to be addressed. I plan to pull the pulpit and 'drill epoxy drill' the holes. Then back each mount with kingboard plates.

I plan to do the stantions and stern rail as well

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jhinton
Navigator

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USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 14:56:25

Looks really great, nice work. Thank you for posting the pictures as I am looking to perform this upgrade over the winter! Any lessons learned or words of advice you care to pass along?

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 18:28:17

The only hole that lines up is the single bow bolt under the rub rail. Be prepared to fill all the top deck holes with epoxy. The chain plate will probably need to be bent out to match your contour. The hardest part was replacing the track and rub rail. The stock bolt is counter sunk in the plate. I used new pan head screws that did not fit as flush under the rail track. If I were to do it again I'd take the time to countersink at least that one bolt. Clean your rub rail well. Coil as much as you can into a bucket with hot water and soap (that will soften the vinyl) and work it back in the track with a new (clean) plastic mallet and a narrow putty knife. Good luck hope that helps.

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Tom Gauntt
Navigator

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204 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 20:15:52

Looks great Mark! And you did it in the water, too! What did you pay King Neptune?

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Mark Maxwell
Captain

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USA
329 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 20:20:30

Only 1 item... the forestay turnbuckle.... but I had my goggles and was able to retrive it in only 12 feet of water

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Tom Gauntt
Navigator

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204 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2010 : 20:34:02

Wow, that is amazing. If I had attempted that project on the water, I think at the very least I would've given Neptune a DeWalt screw gun, a Ryobi impact driver (after I dropped the screw gun), several hundred SS screws, the rub rail, the stem fitting (both the old AND the new), sunglasses, a putty knife, car keys, cell phone, assorted screw drivers, and a very nice Leatherman tool.

I'm impressed!

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Tomas Kruska
Admiral

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Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2010 : 03:09:04

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tom Gauntt
 Wow, that is amazing. If I had attempted that project on the water, I think at the very least I would've given Neptune a DeWalt screw gun, a Ryobi impact driver (after I dropped the screw gun), several hundred SS screws, the rub rail, the stem fitting (both the old AND the new), sunglasses, a putty knife, car keys, cell phone, assorted screw drivers, and a very nice Leatherman tool.

I'm impressed!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

muhehehe

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Tomas Kruska
Admiral

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Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2010 : 03:13:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mark Maxwell
 ...The wood there really isn't as bad as the picture shows but....
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Have the same "bad" wood as yours. I really dont get it, why CY have not added at least one layer of epoxy. Especialy when there are to much of moisture...maybe on the later models.
Exposed plywood is not only on the upper side but also on the sides of the anchor locker.... you can imagine how it looks after 30 years of 300% humidity.

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jhinton
Navigator

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USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2010 : 04:14:20

That surely will help, thank you for taking the time to write back Mark!

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2010 : 05:37:24

Hey Mark,

Thanks for taking the time to shoot and download all the pix. It's not easy when there are camera hazards to be concerned about. Sharing knowledge and information is what makes this such a great website.

As others had stated above - excellent work on the stemhead fitting!

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2010 : 07:28:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jhinton
 Looks really great, nice work. Thank you for posting the pictures as I am looking to perform this upgrade over the winter! Any lessons learned or words of advice you care to pass along?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Don't bother with the rub rail unless you have a damaged one, I used a dremel to help me get to a screw and had no trouble leaving the rub rail alone.

This a a shot from a series showing how to upgrade the anchor locker drain.

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