Association Forum - Halyards Replaced Today

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Halyards Replaced Today

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
3478 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/19/2010 : 21:09:09

I decided to change the halyards today. I know this has been discussed before but wanted to share my experience.
My advice for those changing out halyards where the halyards are internal to the mast, recommend attach the new line to the old line and pull UP thru the bottom sheave and out over the sheave on top of the mast. Reason for this is that I found that the tightest fit was getting the new/old line joint thru the bottom sheave but pulling it up thru that block means that you have the benefit of working it thru the sheave from the outside of the mast and if necessary can remove duct tape, etc that you may have used in securing that joint.

I first used a needle and whipping to attach the two lines together running the whipping thru the center of each line between 1/4-1/2" from the end of each line and then alternately attaching it to the other line - Did this about 4-6 times. I then whipped the ends of each line to cover the lines sewed thru each line end to the other joint. I then used duct tape to cover the whipping. I found that the duct tape was an overkill and besides the block at the bottom has tight clearances which did not allow the joint to pass thru. I removed the duct tape and then working the line a bit, finally got it thru the block at the bottom. Then it was a piece of cake - pulled the new line up and over the block at the top of the mast and never really felt any resistance - Joint went thru the block smoothly and pulled it over and down. Then connected the shackle and was done. Did same for the other halyard (minus the duct tape) and that went smoothly as well.
I have an IDC furling rig and I do not use the jib halyard but still wanted to replace the line. I used Sampson XLS Extra T which is same line I have also used for my main and genoa sheets. For my main halyard, I used Sampson Warpspeed. Both are low stretch but the Warpspeed is about half the stretch of the XLS Extra T line (but it's also about double the cost). Both bought mail-order via Defender accessed via the Association's advertiser links.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2010 : 21:40:42

seems like the smart way to do it!

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3478 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2010 : 04:12:16

Anyone have any hints for removing the sheave/in-mast block that's just above the block ? While I was succesful in working the old and new halyard line joint past the block, I did try at first to remove the block first but did not want to force the screws and risk stripping them. I ask this because I also purchased from CD the replacement sheaves for the main and jib and so will probably tackle that job again during this next week or so. For starters, i am going to see if I have a better phillips head scrw bit to match the screw. But those screws having probably never been removed are awfully tight. Heating it up probably would only make it expand a bit and make it tighter. Perhaps spraying it with something (WD-40 ?) in case there is some oxidation at work in there ?

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2010 : 11:40:33

Larry,
PB Blaster probably works best for a chemical solution. Since the mast is aluminum, and the screws are steel, heating them will cause the two metals to expand at different rates. If the heat caused the joint to tighten further it should contract when it cools. Either way the different expansion rates are what allows the oxidation to break free.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3478 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2010 : 15:09:43

I think I will try the various options and see if either or both work.

Edited by - on

skybird
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2010 : 20:03:21

I will eagerly watch for results as i have the same project waiting. My old white ones are pretty "snaggletoothed" and i haven't yet tried to get the old ones loose.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4029 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 07:02:31

Larry, I suggest that you get an Impact screwdriver set. It is an invaluable tool for working on boats that will always have stubborn screws and such. Harbor freight has it for $8. I've had one for years. When replacing the screws, Put a dab of Silicone on the threads. This will slow/prevent future corrosion and the screw won't come loose.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

Edited by - islander on 12/21/2010 07:32:26

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3478 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 16:46:03

I have an impact screwdriver. I recall having used it for loosening the oil drain screws on my outboard. Those screws were a bit robust. The screws on that mast block are pretty small and I am a bit concerned about shearing off the screw heads. Though, it is an idea that I had not thought about and may try it.

Today, I tried heating the screws up with my micro-torch but the flame kept getting blown out by the wind. Anyway, no luck on the one screw I was trying it on. I then used liquid wrench (which is probably similar to the PB Blaster that Joe suggested. I tried loosening the screw(s) several times after using the liquid wrench a couple of times and waiting a few minutes in-between attempts. Screws did not budge.

I am concerned that if I try to apply more pressure and torquing on the screwdriver or use an impact screwdriver, I will shear off the screw heads. I could definitely remove the screws with my Dremel by drilling the screws through but weighing the remaining options - Apply more torque, use an impact screwdriver, drill out the screws or continue using the existing blocks, I am thinking that continuing to use the existing blocks may be the way to go for now. The existing blocks are a bit ragged looking but functionally work. The old halyards did not seem that bad off from running through the blocks. Perhaps best to just keep an eye on the new halyards for any signs of chafing or unusual wear. I can always try one of the above options some other time.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 19:35:37

Larry,

When you decide to try again I'd wait for a calm day and use the torch to rapidly heat just the aluminum for a few seconds. It should loosen the screws.

I had an old Honda Prelude and didn't change the spark plugs until the car had 112,000 miles on it. After soaking the plugs in 3 in 1 oil and letting them sit for a day I tried loosening the plugs. I could hear it tearing up the threads so I stopped. Started the car for about 30 seconds and tried again. Plugs came right out. The aluminum head heated up just enough to release from the steel spark plug.

If the torch doesn't work, hit it with the impact driver. If you shear off the head of the screws it shouldn't be that hard to drill out the remaining piece.

Edited by - on

skybird
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 20:32:00

Gary- if it still started, why change plugs? (That's the way my father -in-law rolled)

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3478 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 21:14:08

Gary - Thanks ! I'll give it another shot with the micro-torch on a calm day.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2010 : 21:29:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 Gary - Thanks ! I'll give it another shot with the micro-torch on a calm day.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I wouldn't heat it more than 20 - 30 seconds and make sure you keep the torch moving. It wouldn't take long in one spot to soften the aluminum or damage it permanently.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.