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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Capri 25 Specific Forum

Bulkhead board

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kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/06/2011 : 23:02:19

Does anyone have any experience replacing the bulkhead board on the port side of the compression post? Mine seems to be rotting in the lower left corner, but the rest of it seems to be okay. Should this be replaced by marine-grade plywood or what? I would assume that this helps prevent hull flex; correct me if I'm wrong. Suggestions welcome.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2011 : 06:36:42

Hi Ken,
I'm a KSC member also, racing "No Brakes". I replaced my port bulkhead when I got the boat 5 years ago.
It is not too big a task and yes I think the bulkhead is structural and you DO want it installed in the boat. As I recall it is notched into the compression post also and you have to remove the compression post to get the bulkhead out. I did not use a teak plywood as the original wood was. The shipping cost was a killer. I bought the best piece of marine plywood I could find from a little wood supplier in Greenville. I can't remember their name right now, but they are on Laurens road and have been in business a very long time. I put polyurethane on the board before installing it and it matches the interior wood pretty good and is plenty strong enough. I'll be happy to show you the results, I should be at the club in two weeks for the next race. I only used one end of the board and still have the other half if you are interested in purchasing it.

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kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2011 : 21:43:45

Thanks, Joe. Remove the compression post? I didn't want to hear that...sounds daunting. Do you have a pattern for the bulkhead or did you just trace the old one? I need to check the wood rot a little closer to see how far it extends from the edge where the rot is. If it's not too extensive, I may just Dremel out the bad stuff and leave as is, at least until I drop the mast again. I'd be interested in the other half of that board if mine needs replacing. I'll see you around the club.

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abraxis
1st Mate

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USA
49 Posts

Response Posted - 03/17/2011 : 06:46:58

Hi Ken,

I replaced both starboard and port bulkheads six or so yeare ago as mine too were rotted due to water leaking down fron shroud plates.
Removing post is not as daunting as it sounds. Look back in the archives for info on this project. There is alot there.
In my opinion, mast should be down when you do this.

I'm replaceing aft bulkheads this year for the same reason, much easier than fwds.

Just Do-It,

Mike

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 03/18/2011 : 06:01:35

Hi Ken,

I agree with Mike, take down the mast and the compression post comes out easily. There are some screws that need to be removed and they are hidden by plugs. Good luck getting the plugs out so you can re-use them (I couldn't). Come see me on my boat and I'll show you how it is fastened in place. I made a template from the old piece of wood as the rot was not so extensive that I could not pattern from it. It wasn't a perfect fit and I had to do a little fine tuning but I'm satisfied with the end results. I tried and I don't think you stand a chance of getting the port bulkhead out WITHOUT removing the post unless you cut it out and then a new one is not going in except in pieces. Since the shrouds attach to this board I think it is critical that it be one piece and attached at all original attachment points to the hull.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2011 : 21:50:04

If the rot is just getting started try using some Rid Rot to harden it up. It comes with a syringe and you just inject it into the soft wood where it's rotten.

I used it on the transom of my SeaRay about 20 years ago and it's still as hard a rock and structurally sound. I did an area about 4 x 4 inches around the drain plug.

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kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2011 : 22:30:14

This weekend, I finally got a chance to check the extent of the bulkhead rot. It seems that on both port and starboard bulkheads, the rot extends up about 1-2" from the bottom edge. Way too far gone for RidRot. It seems that the rest of the bulkhead is in good shape and the rot hasn't come anywhere near the anchor bolts.

After looking at the method of anchoring the bulkhead to the hull/liner, it appears that the only structural aspect of the bulkhead is to transfer shroud tension almost straight down into the hull/liner with through-bolts. I think the starboard bulkhead describes how the port bulkhead actually functions. It does not appear that there is a compression element to the bulkheads. As designed, it seems that these bulkheads don't accomplish much in controlling hull flex as these bolts provide the only attachment point to the hull/liner.

So, does the inner half of the port bulkhead have any function other privacy for those using the head. If this is the case, would a two-piece replacement bulkhead suffice and eliminate the need for dropping the mast for replacement? I'm thinking that the shrouds could be loosened (while keeping sufficient tension on the fore/aft shrouds) to replace the current bulkheads.

Your thoughts, please...other than telling me I'm lazy for not wanting to drop the mast.

Edited by - on

joearcht
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2011 : 05:15:37

I think your logic is probably correct.
As another option you might consider just putting the port bulkhead back "without" the notch into the compression post (if you can get it to fit). Instead of the notch into the compression post you could use a small piece of alum angle to attach the bulkhead to the compression post. I considered an option like this when I replaced mine, but after I determined that the compression post came out fairly easily I went with the original design.

Edited by - on

kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2011 : 06:19:22

Thanks, Joe. Still mulling it over. I'm usually a big proponent of staying with the original design (purist, at heart); however, many design aspects of the Capri 25 lead me to question the initial construction.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2011 : 20:23:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by kglasgow
 This weekend, I finally got a chance to check the extent of the bulkhead rot. It seems that on both port and starboard bulkheads, the rot extends up about 1-2" from the bottom edge. Way too far gone for RidRot. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I disagree. RidRot should be able to firm up an area that size. As I mentioned above, I did an area on my SeaRay that was at least 4 X 4 inches and it's still rock solid.

I'd at least try it rather than spend hours removing and replacing the bulkheads. It took me less than 30 minutes to repair the SeaRay.

Edited by - on

kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2011 : 21:55:12

Thanks for your input. I think I'll go ahead and replace the bulkheads. I'm not 100% sure that all the rot is limited to the lower 1-2" of the bulkhead. I've used RidRot before to repair a wooden gate, but I don't have enough confidence in it to withstand the tensile forces generated by the main shroud. I do have other areas of rot or softening that I plan to use RidRot on.

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GrapeTX
1st Mate

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28 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2012 : 11:48:27

I am in the process of replacing all the bulkheads in the Capri 25 I just bought. I made it easily to the port side but the compression post is giving me some problems.

The mast is down, I removed 2 screwws from the bottom of the post and two screws from the top that are in the middle of the additional block. There are two plugs to the top and bottom of the screws I removed from the top and my question is did I remove the correct screws.

The post moves some (about and 1/8") but someting is holding it still. I read where someone used a jack to free the post but I prefer not to go that route if possible because the boat is in the water.

Edited by - GrapeTX on 05/08/2012 11:51:36

kglasgow
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2012 : 14:26:37

Sorry, but I haven't replaced my bulkheads yet. Regarding jacking the post loose, are you concerned about damage or hull breach due to point loading from the jack? If so, have you thought about distributing the load across a 2x4 and some 1/2" or 3/4" plywood underneath (maybe a 2'x2' piece)? It shouldn't require a lot of force if the mast is down already. Ken G

Edited by - kglasgow on 05/08/2012 14:27:59

joearcht
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2012 : 19:40:56

It has been six years since I replaced my bulkheads and I can't really remember and did not take pictures (my bad) of the process, but I do know that the compression post has to come out if you are going to re-install as originally constructed. I do remember using a jack to relieve the pressure when removing, but it did NOT take a lot of movement. When I put the post back in I just used my back to heave against the cabin top. What I'm thinking is that there are screws from the top down thru the mast base plate. I had to repair the fiberglass under the mast base plate on my boat and had disassembled that part of the boat at the same time I was replacing the bulkheads. I'm not absolutely certain of my memory, so maybe someone else can confirm or contradict that aspect of the post installation. I'd hate for you to take something apart that you don't have to, but if you continue to have removal issues I'd look to that area before using too much force and splintering something! Better to re-bed the mast base plate than replace that compression post. Good Luck

Edited by - on

GrapeTX
1st Mate

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28 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2012 : 07:18:57

I got the post out but it took more effort than I had expected. There was a hidden screw in the top that would only be accessible if I took off the additional block attached. On top of that the post is extremely tight to where I jacked the deck up carefully to a point I could hear the fiberglass crackling (maybe about 1/2") and the post still required force to pull it out.

From the interior it looks like the ceiling may have a pocket created around the post that makes it difficult to slide out. I am thinking the PO may have had the shroud tension cranked down too tight and over time it created this problem.

When I learn how to post pictures I will post pictures of the screw in the top in case other have the same problem.

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