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Rainwater leak

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Sam Plummer
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/10/2011 : 10:25:26

Water leaks swim ladder thru bolts in transom and stbd jib car rail thru bolts. Brown goop/water! I am recaulking, but what is the brown stain?

I forgot to mention--2001 C250WB on Tn lake.
(edited by admin:)

Sam Plummer
2001 250WB
Tellico Lake (TN river)

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2011 : 12:48:15

Sam, I suggest that you update your Profile so that your signature describes your boat (look at others for examples) Year, Model, Location etc.

Goop is probably just dirty old water

unless it's corrosion. The Cabin top jib car bolts are easily done, but the swim ladder bolts have to be a beast!

Paul

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2011 : 14:14:53

I'd wonder about core damage if I saw brown goop. When you pull the ladder to re-bed it, check the core for water damamge.

Edited by - on

Sam Plummer
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 10:12:58

I removed the cabin top track and the swim ladder. The transom is solid glass. Two cabin top holes are still oozing brown water. Transom holes are not. Cored cabin top? Has anyone had this problem?

Edited by - on

Sam Plummer
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2011 : 08:09:19

I called Catalina tech service in CA--the cabin top and transom are cored with marine plywood--I was advised that there should be no damage to the plywood, dry thru holes and rebed car track and swim ladder. Thanks all for your help.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2011 : 17:38:53

Thanks for updating us - that's useful info. I always know the decks were cored, but did not know it was marine plywood.

I'm getting ready to re-bed a few things myself. I plan to try butyl tape instead of the stuff in a tube. I stongly suggest that you never use 3M 5200. This guy has very good instructions on how to re-bed hardware. He's very opinionated on everything, but on this topic he's right on:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Edited by - TakeFive on 04/16/2011 17:39:16

vholmstrom
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2011 : 06:57:17

I had a local sailboat rigger help me install my deck organizers and clutches. He beveled all of the holes before sealing and mounting the hardware. At the time I was not convinced that beveling the holes added any value. I am now. Great article.

Thanks Rick.

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2011 : 07:22:16

Thanks for posting that link Rick. Seen it before, but well worth the re-read.

Paul

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2011 : 13:59:54

Very nice read. I found this part, concerning the tighten twice method, particularly interesting as it's something I learned to do from these forums. Might have to rethink that whole process and the use of butyl tape. Thanks for posting.

#2 TIGHTEN ONCE - Whether you use butyl or a tube type sealant Please DO NOT listen to that old wives tale about letting sealant cure and then tightening it a second time. While in "theory" this sounds all warm and fuzzy but the raw reality is this is a disaster waiting to happen.

_

Countersink the deck hole and tighten it ONCE! This "let cure, tighten twice" advice is perhaps the absolute worst advice ever foisted upon the unsuspecting boating community. It has perhaps been the cause of more deck leaks than if you were to use Swiss cheese to bed your fittings and I strongly suspect Swiss cheese might actually work better. I have had my moisture meter on LOTS of DIY and "professionally" done "tighten twice" boats and there is huge correlation to "tighten twice" and wet decks, HUGE.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2011 : 14:07:36

As I said, he is certainly opinionated. A crusty old salt, indeed.

I think the major problem with tightening a second time is that after the material has cured, turning the screws breaks the seal around them so that they become a point of intrusion. OTOH, countersinking the screws provides enough void space for the butyl rubber to fill, so that a seal is maintained even if the screws flex a bit, since the non-curing butyl always keeps its flexibility.

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

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USA
531 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2011 : 16:53:41

Where can one find butyl tape? My plans today were to rebed the swim ladder and gudgeons, stopped by Home Depot to get the tape but no one in the store had heard of it and I couldn't locate it. Sure would have been easier and neater with the tape but I got the job done, I did find a countersink at HD and used that on the job. In the water tomorrow, finally.

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2011 : 07:29:25

Found a lot of suppliers on google.
here's [url="http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=403311"]one[/url]

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mobile-Lastic-Butyl-Tape-Seal-RV-Camper-Gray-/220112783994?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item333fbe8a7a#ht_500wt_922"]e-Bay[/url]

Paul

Edited by - britinusa on 04/19/2011 07:34:34

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2011 : 08:00:16

Grainger was ordering some in for me, but then I found some at a local RV dealer. It's often called "putty tape," but they're not all created equal. Be sure to get the butyl based stuff for superior properties. Some have a shim built in to prevent squeezing it all out - good for bedding windows, but not good for hardware.

This is the type of item that I'd suggest buying locally so you can inspect it first. It could be very hit-and-miss online.

Edited by - on

Sam Plummer
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2011 : 08:08:59

While I was talking to Catalina Tech about the water leaks they advised me to use 3M4200. 5200 is great if you never want to remove anything!!
(I also know from experience)

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

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USA
531 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2011 : 17:51:01

I used 3M 4000.

Edited by - on

vholmstrom
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 04/20/2011 : 13:13:10

I also used 3M 4000. I was told by West Marine that it is the same as 4200, but with UV inhibitors.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2011 : 09:45:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by vholmstrom
 I also used 3M 4000. I was told by West Marine that it is the same as 4200, but with UV inhibitors.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If they could get the same performance properties and the UV resistance, they would not make 4200. When they add UV inhibitors to make 4000, they lose some adhesion and elongation to break. It's a tradeoff, so they make both 4000 and 4200.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.