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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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Still working out the bugs in "We Too" and now getting to the cast iron keel. I got the dimensions from Catalina and am starting to make patterns to check the fairing of the keel.
First thing I am noticing is that the keel has lost almost 1/2" from it's original thickness at the trunk.
What's the best method to restore the original dimensions, and what are your opinions on these suggestions?
Build up with fiberglass and poly resin? Build up with Cheep Bondo? Poly Resin and Cabosil?
Any other ideas? As always cost is important too, so cheaper the better.
"We Two" 1982 Catalina 25 - SR - SK - Traditional Interior - Hull #2940 "High Voltage" 1976 Catalina 27 - Tall Rig - Dinette Interior - Hull #2247 - John Lange - Port Charlotte, Florida Association Member - http://www.Stuff4Toys.com/ - Christmas Day 2010
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">First thing I am noticing is that the keel has lost almost 1/2" from it's original thickness at the trunk.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That's interesting. I wonder if there has been a loss of weight as well?
I don't think I would try to recreate the original dimensions. Just get the thing smooth and fill rust holes.
To control keel wobble, CD sells a spacer kit, 2 discs that are bonded to the sides of the keel at the front with the keel up. I had them put on our boat when I bought it and had the bottom done. Works well.
I sleeved the keel pivot hole with a part from CD and posted the process on the forum. A worn and enlarged hole is the root cause of keel wobble and should be addressed. Many who have posted after installing the spacer pads have reported losing them by the end of the season. My solution also included a nylon washer on the pivot pin on each side of the keel and a stainless washer outboard. The nylon washer is held stationary by the rough surface of the keel and slides on the polished stainless, providing more bearing surface than fitting a replacement pivot assembly and grinding it to a snug fit against the keel and reducing wear on the expensive parts. I have had no issues for several years.
edit: I also had the keel filled, smoothed and barrier coated, but not actually faired.
There are always inconsistencies from one-boat-to-another, one-year- to-another. My 1989 C25 has a pre '89 backstay. Weights can also vary. As crude as the process is for making keels, I'm not too suprised by the variance you've uncovered. The question might be - is the variance within the acceptable tolerance? A question for Kent Nelson perhaps . . .
We did sleeve the pivot hole, the hole was egg shaped, so I had a machine shop machine it out and welded a plug in it, then fit the CD sleeve in a hole drilled in the plug. $300 well spent I think.
Just wanting to keep the keel from drifting 1" back and forth in the trunk.
Thorough repair! I would still recommend the nylon and stainless washers on the pivot pin. I thought about the spacers from CD, but also drilling and tapping the keel so I could drill and countersink the pads for flat head screws to prevent them from coming off as many reported. The pads have proven to be unnecessary since I can replace the nylon washers in a 1/2 hour or so if I need to in the future.
edit: I don't know if Catalina sent you thicknesses at different points, but the keel is thicker at the bottom to lower it's CG.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.