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 use of anti freeze to dry out a wet core
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Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/07/2011 :  19:41:18  Show Profile
I am doing some maintenance on my "new" old boat, and stepped the mast. The gelcoat under the mast step was cracked and when I opened it up it showed that water had penetrated the core.
I read a suggestion on line where they recommend drilling holes into the core and filling them with antifreeze. The argument is that antifreeze kills everything (mold etc) in the core. Moreover, antifreeze is hydroscopic and will pull the water out and penetrate wood ... at least so goes the argument. I assume the antifreeze will evaporate. If so, I was hoping to do this and then inject penetrating epoxy into the holes I have drilled.
Has anyone of you have experience using this method? Are there other/better suggestions to achieve the same/better results?
Thanks.
Jan

Jan Briede
Beagle
1979 TR #1242 FK
L-Dinette
Yorktown, VA
Blog -- http://vanomad.blogspot.com/


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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2011 :  22:38:33  Show Profile
Just drill a lot of holes and let it dry, then add the epoxy; ethylene glycol will take longer to evaporate than water. Molds and fungi that the destroy the wood will turn to spores when the wood is dry and remain in that state as long there is not adequate moisture, most chemicals do the same thing (kill some active cells and the rest form spores). Spores are biologically inactive and extremely difficult to destroy. Think of bleach on mold - the mold appears to be gone, but spray a little water on it a couple of days later and close it up and you will have mold again. Keep it simple and don't waste your money.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2011 :  08:36:27  Show Profile
If we're talking about RV/boat water system antifreeze, I put some in my head and sink in the fall, and the left-over drops are still there in May. I'd day it doesn't evaporate--period. On the other hand, ethylene glycol (cooling system antifreeze) might evaporate more readily, but I've read that it also might prevent epoxy from bonding to the wood fibers. Isopropyl alcohol is another method--it attracts moisture and evaporates fairly quickly--I don't know whether that will speed up the drying process. I suspect you're best off just letting the wood dry--the more holes and 24-hour heat, the better. When you think it's dry, drill one more hole into a suspected area to check for moisture, and then begin the penetrating epoxy process.

How is your compression post in the cabin? I'll suggest that before you put the mast step back on, you drill each bolt hole with a substantially oversized bit, fill with thickened epoxy, let it set, and then re-drill through the epoxy for the bolts. This will both protect the core from moisture and prevent compression between the deck and the post. (The epoxy-treated core might not be 100% as strong or dimensionally the same as the original wood.)

Best of luck!

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/08/2011 08:37:46
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Tomas Kruska
Admiral

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Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2011 :  12:48:26  Show Profile  Visit Tomas Kruska's Homepage
Filling the wet/rot core with the epoxy just makes the future repair more difficult.

It's better to rip it out and put in a new plywood instead.
This year, I'm just finished replacing rotten core from the anchor locker area (from inside), anchor hatch itself and on one of stern pulpit legs. All this places are easily accessible and also there is a really thin glass over the wood from the inside. That's why when it gets wet, its a weak spot on the deck.

There are places like sidewalks or the deck around the mast step area where the wood is only 1/3 of the overall thickness and you can easily live with that.... like me Glass is very thick there.

To get more stiffness, I plan to repair the core in the windows area, next year.

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