Association Forum - Stuck anchor

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Stuck anchor

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
4593 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/03/2011 : 08:26:03

Interesting idea in the attached article:

http://sailmagazine.com/cruising/tips-techniques/june_2010_cruising_tips/

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2011 : 18:24:12

Looks like it's just for a Danforth-style anchor... I don't see how it would work with my Delta. But it gives me an idea--put a ring in the trip-line hole on the shank of the Delta so I can hook it with something--even a boat-hook in shallow enough water. Then rig a large triple- or quad-gang hook on a length of small chain. It seems that both techniques make an assumption that's dubious around here--that you can see the anchor.

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1520 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2011 : 06:08:23

It seems like it should always work for a Danforth-style, and likely for a Lewmar claw anchor, for a Rocna anchor, for a CQR or a Delta anchor. Nothing on the shank of these anchors would block the chain loop. The question is how well pulling opposite the flukes, plow, or claw would work to release the anchor at any pull angle? You may need very long recovery lines to do this. But it's similar to pulling straight up or sideways on a trip line - what angle can release a fouled anchor?

Lowering an 18" loop of chain down the rode to the anchor should be able to give leverage opposite the dug-in flukes, if you can get the chain loop all the way past the chain rode to the anchor. It would be hard to know if the chain loop is resting on the head of the anchor, or is just hung up on the anchor chain.

Here's what I would try:
<ul><li> Raise as much chain as possible over the anchor </li><li> Slide the recovery chain loop down the rode until there is slack in the rescue line </li><li> Set the anchor rode adrift with the bitter end floating on a fender </li><li>Slowly motor upwind to apply gentle pressure with the recovery line </li><li> Pull the anchor out backwards</li></ul>
Perhaps we need some wisdom from the Association Forum's ground-tackle-wizard, Redviking! You must have done this somewhere in your travels, Sten!

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2011 : 09:21:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JohnP
 Perhaps we need some wisdom from the Association Forum's ground-tackle-wizard, Redviking! You must have done this somewhere in your travels, Sten!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Uh sure, thought I hear someone calling.

This is an old trick, as was pretty much everything else on that SailMag page. Yes, saltwater heads do need vinegar and oil from time to time - got anything interesting to write about? Which is why I no longer subscribe, I've read it all at least 13 times...

OK, back on topic - The chain pictured in the article is a joke. If you want this to work the chain must slide over the swivel or shackle and drop all the way down over the shank. This means pony up for a foot or more of 3/8ths or something you didn't find attached to your Mom's swag lamp in the basement.

Depending on the conditions, you can position the bow directly over the hook, but if you are single handing, you may find this difficult.

Also, if your hook gets stuck, typically you want to get the freak out of there in a hurry for some reason, usually it's blowing snot for me, so have this set up in advance if possible or at least know how to put it together quickly.

Extraction. You got it John, BUT you really don't have to do it that way. No need to attach the rode to a float. After the line goes slack, fall back and play out more line. Then let out a few more feet of rode AFTER attaching line to a cleat. Now just simply drive forward. The line is shorter and will grab the hook before the main rode/chain starts working against you. It should pull free and if your line snaps all you lost was a foot of chain. Then just haul it in as usual.

This method will work on any hook. They all have shanks and some sort of fluke and once you get it on, it will stay. Pulls out CQR's, Danny's, and Delta's - no worries.

Angle - try to remember how you set the hook. If the wind was from the North when you dropped the hook, and has now switched around to the east, you are still going to have to drive over your hook going North. Always try to visualize where your hook is. Some cruisers attach bleach bottles or expensive floats on trip lines on their hooks for this reason, FYI. Not a big fan depending on how crouded the anchorage is, and some have had them chopped off by powerboats going thru, but it is a good idea to try that method once to help give you an idea of where your anchor is under different situations, depth's, etc...

Now - all that been said, we have pulled up a shopping cart, a huge electric trolling motor, a couple of beach towels, and a couple of anchors attached to rodes and chain in our travels. So, what you are hooked on is also relevant. Pray it is a rock or something. Or not. If your chain gets wrapped around a rock and hardens up during the night, you might have to try something from the dink. Absent a swim mask, a clear gallon jug of water with the top cut off will help you see what you are doing. BUT, you do not need to see the hook to retrieve it. Just think about how it went in, what might be down there, and keep trying.

On our C25 - sans big ass windlass with cockpit remote button

- While single handing, I used all of the above techniques AND in a tricky anchorage with windage and not wanting to leave to cockpit, I used the same techique to break the line, BUT winched in the anchor from the cockpit using the tripline. It gouged the paint for a second until I realized it was up and amidships, so I lowered it a foot, cleated off and started making my way to open water clear of everyone else where I could retrieve the hook and stow the rode and tripline.

How much do they pay for articles at Sail anyway?

sten

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.