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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Before I get the "rent a slip and leave it in the water" answer let me remind all that I live in West Texas and the nearest lake with slips for rent is a 4 hour drive - one way. We have discussed that here before.
I would like to hear from anyone that uses a tow strap to launch and retreive their boat. I have a C25 TR/FK and currently use a steel tube extension to get my boat on and off it's trailer. I may have to move my boat to a less friendly ramp and will need to speed us this process. Thanks David B.
David B. '84 C25 TR/FK #4301 "Synchronicity" '70 18' Interlake '78 14' Dolphin Sr Lubbock, TX
I think I can pretty much guarantee that moving to a strap launch isn't going to speed up your process. I haven't used an extension, but I'd imagine that's got to be faster than the strap process (which we use every time, and it's time consuming).
David a guys got to do what a guys got to do (to keep sailing). I have a friend who launches and retrieves his fixed keel Capri 22 with a rope faster than I can launch and retrieve my C25 wing keel on a roller trailer with and without using an extension and help. He added the extra wheel as he wants to control the trailer to get it close to the dock when launching or retrieving so he can jump off and on the boat to unhook the triler strap or hook it on and winch the boat tight to the trailer when it is still floating. He can do the entire process in and out by himself very quickly. He's forty something and very agile. He's been doing this at least l0 years and has his steps down so pat that it looks like a ballet. I've watched a lot of people do rope launches/retrievals many times. I crew on a Santana 20 that is rope launched and retrieved. From what I've observed it really helps to have the extra wheel (wider) control for trailer placement. It is also very important to have a really good keel guide if you use pads. Once you get the hang of trailer depth needed to float the boat off and on, mark a visible part of the front of the trailer with bright red tape to tell you when to stop. If you stick to a trailer extension instead of a rope launch you may be able to get a longer extension by making a trailer modification. My husband did this when he re-habed our trailer and it works pretty slick. There is no lineing up holes for the extension pin to drop into like the standard Trailrite trailers. If you need pics send me a note offline at isailynn@yahhoo.com
I use the strap launch method (only once/twice per year as the boat is in slip) with a swing keel C-25 on fin keel trailer setup. The V part of the trailer frame is very close to the actuator and I'm a bit tongue light so I added a second trailer jack to the front of the trailer instead of the hub/tire carrier. The 2 jacks carry the weight easily. The process goes quickly: 1. Drive boat to ramp and stop about 6 ft from the water. 2. Chock wheels and raise tongue off of vehicle. 3. Attach strap to trailer and vehicle and pull forward to remove slack in strap. 4. Pull forward enough to remove chocks. 5. Lower boat into the water, hoping the trailer rolls in deep enough to float the boat off. Regarding chocks, I have 2 pair of rubber chocks, each pair connected with rope so I can chock all 4 wheels. After pulling them out, I can drape them over the winch stand temporarily.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.