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checking to see how if galley counter top was replaced. Please let me know...
Capt Sam, USCG Master Near Coastal Isle of Hope, GA. Charleston,SC. Lake Murray, SC. Aboard Bobbin - 1982 Standard Rig-Swing Keel #2963 Dinette Model "On a powerboat you are going somewhere....On a Sailboat you are Already There!" Capt Sam
I've been wanting to know the same thing.. my counter top needs to be replaced and I have no clue how to get it out. I've yet to see any pic of how to remove it.
I just removed my counter top as I am in the middle of an extensive refit. I just started pulling screws. The panel that houses the electrical panel must be removed first, as well as the sink and some additional trim pieces. I haven't decided what to use as a replacement top yet, but anything will be an improvement to what was there. I do not think I will reuse the vinyl trim pieces between the counter top and the hull, maybe caulk. Sorry I do not have any pics, I'll try to post some later.
I just finished a complete refit ....stripped the interior bare...on a Cat 25 that had been abandoned for five years. Am trying to remember the removal sequence for the galley top. Sink does come out first or there isn't enough clearance to get top out......then the bulkhead behind the sink (good time to move the elec panel to better location) l think there were. Some blocks on the counter top that fastened it to the fiberglass superstructure..but can't remember for sure. I do remember pulling both drawer units out before taking the counter top out. Can give you better info on the new top......making an accurate template from the old top is a bit of a challenge due to the beveled edges to match The hull curvature....better to cut a bit oversize and dry fit before laminating. Sink, reefer and faucet cutouts are no problem. I made some major changes in layout so my counter top is a bit bigger than the original. used 5/8 AC plywood.....bottom surface primed with an oil base primer and 3 coats of oil base paint applied to seal......I did edge band the ply with pine (1/2 by 5/8) gorilla glued to the ply to seal the edges of the ply. Finished surface is laminate, standard application process....do not use the water based contact cement......it may be safer and smell better, but it doesn't bond very well. I reused the original teak edge trim and added new where needed. A lot of work but worth it. When you reinstall you may have to shim a bit to get the counter' boat level'----
We installed all new bulkheads....and you are right..throw the old stiff vinyl edging away...it is available.....I think from defender.......we caulked then applied 1/2 inch manilla rope aroun d edges of all bulkheads.......sounds funky but looks great. A lot of work, but was one of the easier parts of the whole project.......and the new galley has made the lady of the Admiralty happy. Hope some of this helps.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by irishsailor321</i> <br />I just finished a complete refit ....stripped the interior bare...on a Cat 25 that had been abandoned for five years. Am trying to remember the removal sequence for the galley top. Sink does come out first or there isn't enough clearance to get top out......then the bulkhead behind the sink (good time to move the elec panel to better location) l think there were. Some blocks on the counter top that fastened it to the fiberglass superstructure..but can't remember for sure. I do remember pulling both drawer units out before taking the counter top out. Can give you better info on the new top......making an accurate template from the old top is a bit of a challenge due to the beveled edges to match The hull curvature....better to cut a bit oversize and dry fit before laminating. Sink, reefer and faucet cutouts are no problem. I made some major changes in layout so my counter top is a bit bigger than the original. used 5/8 AC plywood.....bottom surface primed with an oil base primer and 3 coats of oil base paint applied to seal......I did edge band the ply with pine (1/2 by 5/8) gorilla glued to the ply to seal the edges of the ply. Finished surface is laminate, standard application process....do not use the water based contact cement......it may be safer and smell better, but it doesn't bond very well. I reused the original teak edge trim and added new where needed. A lot of work but worth it. When you reinstall you may have to shim a bit to get the counter' boat level'----
We installed all new bulkheads....and you are right..throw the old stiff vinyl edging away...it is available.....I think from defender.......we caulked then applied 1/2 inch manilla rope aroun d edges of all bulkheads.......sounds funky but looks great. A lot of work, but was one of the easier parts of the whole project.......and the new galley has made the lady of the Admiralty happy. Hope some of this helps.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by irishsailor321</i> <br />I just finished a complete refit ....stripped the interior bare...on a Cat 25 that had been abandoned for five years. Am trying to remember the removal sequence for the galley top. Sink does come out first or there isn't enough clearance to get top out......then the bulkhead behind the sink (good time to move the elec panel to better location) l think there were. Some blocks on the counter top that fastened it to the fiberglass superstructure..but can't remember for sure. I do remember pulling both drawer units out before taking the counter top out. Can give you better info on the new top......making an accurate template from the old top is a bit of a challenge due to the beveled edges to match The hull curvature....better to cut a bit oversize and dry fit before laminating. Sink, reefer and faucet cutouts are no problem. I made some major changes in layout so my counter top is a bit bigger than the original. used 5/8 AC plywood.....bottom surface primed with an oil base primer and 3 coats of oil base paint applied to seal......I did edge band the ply with pine (1/2 by 5/8) gorilla glued to the ply to seal the edges of the ply. Finished surface is laminate, standard application process....do not use the water based contact cement......it may be safer and smell better, but it doesn't bond very well. I reused the original teak edge trim and added new where needed. A lot of work but worth it. When you reinstall you may have to shim a bit to get the counter' boat level'----
We installed all new bulkheads....and you are right..throw the old stiff vinyl edging away...it is available.....I think from defender.......we caulked then applied 1/2 inch manilla rope aroun d edges of all bulkheads.......sounds funky but looks great. A lot of work, but was one of the easier parts of the whole project.......and the new galley has made the lady of the Admiralty happy. Hope some of this helps. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I did basically the same thing as irishsailor did except I used 1/2" exterior plywood. I used the new high definition laminates, and installed the tesk edge. I repalced the back bulkhead also and re-located the electrical panel. Here are a few pics.
After thinking about this, you can cut 1/2" or so off the old countertop. Then use a small piece of wood as a spacer to trace the hull shape onto the old countertop. Then transfer the line to the new piece of wood using the same spacer. Doing that will let you fit the counter top very tight so no trim is used at all. I did use some white vinyl piping to trim up the edge.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.