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Keel Cable Replacement

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waterbaby
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/08/2012 : 04:00:32

We're hauling our boat out this weekend so that we can finally replace the keel cable that was damaged in Irene. We ordered the replacement kit from CD and they provide some instructions which I'm hoping will make this project a straight forward affair. But after reading some of the older threads on this I'm a little concerned that it may not be.

Has anyone done this replacement recently using the CD kit? Any gotcha's or other tips that you can share to make my life easier? I'm especially concerned about how to make sure we get the cable wound in such a way that the 'birdsnest' issue that I've read about is minimized.

Also, while we're at it I'd like to see if we can install some of those spacing shims to keep the keel from banging around. It looks pretty straight forward in the tech tip but since it was written quite awhile ago I'd be interested in hearing how these shims hold up over time.

1986 TR/SK #5250 Sunshine

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 : 05:40:51

I've replaced my keel cable a couple of times with the CD hardware. I don't remember any problems with a "birdnest". You just need to keep tension on the cable as you wrap it up. The only tip I can think of, is to have a device to hold the turning ball while you install it. I used a coat hanger bent into a J shape. When I replaced mine, the boat was on my power boat lift, over the water, so I positioned a dinghy under the boat in case I dropped anything.

Edited by - on

Sam001
Vice Commodore

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USA
441 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 : 07:26:44

I like the dinghy net idea!

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Sam001
Vice Commodore

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USA
441 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 : 07:27:33

And Karen, have fun and do a good job on the cable! Sam

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 : 09:36:16

A frequent comment from those that have installed the spacers is that they are not there at the next haulout. I over-drilled and sleeved the pivot hole in the keel, added nylon and polished stainless washers over the pivot pin and solved the problem at the source. I would suggest that you drill and tap the keel and countersink the spacers so that you can use flathead machine screws to supplement the epoxy bond if you use the spacers.

edit: If you are in saltwater, I would also suggest adding zincs while you have the drill and tap handy.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 03/08/2012 09:38:52

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2012 : 11:48:33

We've faithfully replaced the lifting cable every 2 years while on the hard. The aircraft cable (similarly to stranded line) has a 'lay' to it, and needs to feed onto the drum with out any twisting about it's core. While you can do the process alone, it's easiest with one assistant below and you in the cabin. First replace the turning ball, then uncoil the cable, allowing it to lay out straight, then feed up into the cabin and connect to the winch. Put slight tension onto the cable from below as you wind up the slack, once the fitting reaches the connection point to the keel, it's a simple pin with cotter to secure to the keel and you are set

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2012 : 18:55:23

I inspect regularly, but I usually go about 4 years between replacements and only spend about 2 1/2 months in saltwater. The turning ball seems to need replacement by then anyway. Change it as often as you need to feel secure, but I definitely wouldn't go over 2 years in continuous salt or 5 years in fresh water and more often never hurts.

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waterbaby
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2012 : 07:19:37

The cable has been replaced!!! Yea! Here's what we learned.

First we're really, really glad we did it because we found the upper part of the cable was kinked and pinched in a not so nice way that maybe could have caused a problem in the near future. We had a build up of gunk (pine needles, sludge, and who knows what else) around the turning ball and it was tricky to get out. Hubby banged on it a little and finally got it free. The pin the CD kit provided to attach the cable to the keel was not long enough to attach it to the hanger that was bolted onto the keel so we had to use the old one. It looked like it was in good shape so it should be ok until the next time. We didn't get any hardware in the kit to replace the hanger itself so I'm adding that to the 'next time' list. There is a right side and a wrong side to feeding the cable up past the turning ball (remember, on another post I said if there was a wrong way to do something I'd find it). If you feed it up the wrong side the cable will rub against the housing which didn't seem to be a good idea. Luckily we were able to just pull the turning ball back out and put it back in on the other side and didn't have to undo everything else. The new cable came with a rubber wrapper on the cut end which is nice because it keeps all the little wires together and yes it will fit through the hole in the winch with the rubber intact.

The boat yard was not able to block the boat up high enough to lower the keel all the way so as hubby cranked the keel up onto the winch I stood on the slack below to keep tension on it. It worked out pretty good and the new cable is wound on nice and neet.

Here's the part we don't understand. The winch is hung from the underside of the stairs really? That's all? As in the stairs are supporting my keel? We started this project thinking we'd take the stairs out so we could see things better. When it wouldn't budge despite having removed all of the bolts that appeared to be connected it to the boat we took off the panel that was covering the winch (see my note above about how we approach projects). That would have been interesting if we'd have been successful since at that point we didn't have the keel lowered all the way to the block. We were just removing the stairs after all, so that we could see better what needed to be done. Whew!!!

Jerlim, you're note was exactly spot on for the process.

Maybe someday this will help someone else out.

With the boat out we've found quite a bit of rust on the keel and apparently our newly repaired rudder has taken another hit and has water in it. We drilled some pilot holes in the bottom hoping it will drain out and purchased some epoxy. Neither of these items were on my list for 'this time' but as they say it is a 'BOAT' and we all know what that means....

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2012 : 08:36:55

In reality, the stairs are only hoilding up half the weight of the keel. So it's only holding up 750# or so.
Good job changing out the cable!

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jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2012 : 10:31:56

Good point re:the pin at the keel...yes, the provided pin is too short, and we've been using the old pin for 6 years...

Edited by - jerlim on 03/11/2012 15:27:40

Sam001
Vice Commodore

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USA
441 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2012 : 12:09:14

congrats on the good job.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.