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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the studs are male and insert into the female hub.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Those are original and should be eventually replaced. When I lost a wheel on I-75, the service man that came out said that losing a wheel was more common than you would think (Yes, I always check he torque on my lugs before hitting the road, but I don't always stop and recheck on a short trip like this one.) and definitely more common with lug bolts than nuts.
Sorry, but I just took a lug bolt to Grainger Industrial Supply and asked them to match it before I started updating the hubs - I have only replaced two so far. If you are planning on putting studs in the existing hubs, the best approach would be to over-drill the holes enough to remove the threads and then get studs with enough shoulder to be driven into the hole. Personally, I would stay with bolts to bring it home - it's not like they are continually falling out.
Sorry, I read "stud" in your post and didn't notice "bolts" in your link.
I read steel wheels should be tightened in a three stage sequence, 20-25, 50-60, then 90-120 foot-lbs. I've never done steel wheel torquing because all vehicle wheels I've touched have been alloy and lock snuggly very quick.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.