Association Forum - Old Evinrude engine maintenance

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Old Evinrude engine maintenance

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Page: of 2

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/01/2012 : 10:51:34

Put a new fuel pump on it..

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/01/2012 : 11:36:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 Looks like your lower foot is leaking at the junction where the foot bolts on... I really could not tell from one shot. IF so I'd look at dropping the foot and putting some liquid gasket on that junction, after I read the manual. I don't know.. I've never seen that before. Is it coming from the exhaust? You could drain the foot, clean it up and put some sodium fluorescein in the gear oil, put it back together and see if it leaks. Put a crappy light ( blacklight ) on it and if it glows you know it is coming from the foot.

OR ... Put it on Craigslist and let someone else figure it out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The oil isn't supposed to be anyplace near that junction in the first place. Even if he drops the lower unit (which I did) and has the lower oil seal replaced at the driveshaft (Which I did - it takes a special tool only a registered shop has access to, and is no longer in production) the sludge will continue to flow.

Of course there is no guarantee that teh shop did a crackerjack job on mine, and it may be that the new seal isn't sitting right.

My solution has been to top up the oil at the start of the season. So far no issues with that approach.

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2012 : 03:40:48

Degunked the engine. Removed the stat. Replaced the water line from the head to the plastic outlet opening. Replaced the starter rope. Cleaned the plugs. Tighten a bolt holding the incoming fuel line connection. Tightened the headbolts.

Cranked her up and she purrs like a new engine.

Found a black switch that locks the engine down so she will not pop up in reverse... never knew it was there... funny what you find out when you actually do some maintenance.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 05/07/2012 : 21:38:03

If you Johnson/Evinrude guys ever need parts contact Stone and Sons here in Houston. They've got parts for almost any year model and HP.

Check out their website -->> www.outboard-parts.com/

BTW... I have no affiliation with these people. Just know they are very reputable and have been around forever.

Edited by - GaryB on 05/07/2012 21:38:29

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3477 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2012 : 07:50:30

Thanks Gary.. I've got a mechanic with parts close to home. Dekalb Marine... they are really great and they are really funny.. A strange ( an welcomed )combination at a normally tense kind of shop..

Their "Logo" and byline is a boat model they have in the shop with 20 feet glued to the bottom of it with their motto..

"We'll keep you running."

Part of the reason I'm still running 4 evinrudes.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2012 : 07:38:26

Well, I finally got some time and replaced the water pump in my 1981 9.9 SailMaster. It all went really well, no issues with breaking bolts loose. The impeller looked fine and was quite pliable, but I did find piece of the previous one (before the one I pulled out).

I have two questions for the group:

The kit came with a base plate for the pump. When I pulled out the old one, there was no plate so I didn't use one. Is that correct?

The instructions in the Clymer manual said to use some OMC blah,blah adhesive to seal the bottom of the pump housing where it meets the gearcase. There seemed to be no sealant on the one I took out and no sealant came with the rebuild kit. I re-assembled without sealant. Was that the right way to go?

I haven't bolted the lower unit back on, so it's not too late.

I've been impressed so far at how good this 30+ year old engine looks.

Ken

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3477 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2012 : 08:09:23

I've had several suppliers ask me over the years if I wanted the "base" plate and seen the diagram in the manual showing the plate on the bottom under the impeller..

It was implied there was no need to replace the plate but I've never heard a good discussion either way. Haven't opened up mine yet, the last replacement was done at a repair shop about 5 years ago.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2012 : 07:44:20

I finished the rebuild of the carb (I can't believe how easy it was) and found 2 issues:

1. The orifice with the needle valve (lo-speed?) is supposed to have a gasket; the other orifice (hi-speed?) should not. This motor had them reversed. I think this would change the height of both orifices and mess everything up. I put it back together the way the Clymers manual showed.

2. The rebuild kit had 4 parts that I don't see on the carb and aren't mentioned in the book:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79804738@N02/7725445464/

There is an opening on the face of the carb that looks like it should have something in it (upper left of the air intake):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79804738@N02/7725455956/

The part number on the bag is 0398453 and it also has the retainer for the low speed needle valve, which is right next to the empty port.

Does anyone know what these parts are and where they belong?

Thanks! Ken

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3477 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2012 : 08:50:01

I really have never done my carbs...I think those parts are just for tradition.. You know.. the ones left over after every mechanical job

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 : 10:44:08

I learned new things this week!

1. I have issues with counting; the pic clearly shows 5 extra parts.

2. The 3 metal disks are for 3 permanently sealed ports on the carb body. They shouldn't need to be replaced; if they start to leak, there are the parts to fix them.

3. The black plastic thing that looks like a nail is the same sort of thing. There is a small opening on the carb where you can see the top of the existing one. Again, it shouldn't need to be replaced.

I'm still stumped by the round white plastic piece. I'll hang onto all of them and see how well the engine runs.

Here's what I have left:
Install the rebuilt carb.
Replace the rectifier.
Put together a wiring harness with my new starting button*.
Motor off into the sunset.

Ken

*The original button is toast, the only replacement comes as part of a $150 cable assembly. I bought a $13 button from Defender and I'll make my own cable.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 08/21/2012 : 13:46:49

It Lives!!

All of the info is here:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/90894-1981-evinrude-9-9hp-2str-starts-but-wont-run.html

It's on the stern of Zen Again and I'm ready to go upriver.

And I learned so much from this project that having a working engine is almost secondary. I'm not saying I'll always be able to get an engine running, but no longer will I look at it with the cover off and have no clue what's going on.

BTW - I worked on it in my back yard; as I pulled each tool out of my shop toolbox, I made sure that I had a tool to do that job onboard the boat.

Edited by - on

Page: of 2

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.