Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Swabbie Dave in his Tilley, arms so tired he can hardly hold the phone-camera up... Ready to launch!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
My boat needs to be polished but I can't ever force myself to do it. I haul the supplies down to the boat every week. Once I get there I decide I'd rather sail than have arms so hard I can barely hold a phone/camera!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br />...My boat needs to be polished but I can't ever force myself to do it. I haul the supplies down to the boat every week. Once I get there I decide I'd rather sail than have arms so hard I can barely hold a phone/camera! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I guess it's different when your boat sits on the hard every winter--kinda makes it a natural ritual.
Actually, it's not looking as good as I'd have liked... I started with 3M Restorer-Wax on a power buffer, and then overcoated that with WM's (Starbrite's) PTFE polish (without the buffer). The 3M wasn't up to the fading issues this year--next year I'll start with compound. I knew when I had the boat built that getting dark green gelcoat was masochistic, but...... well... it's hard to explain.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br />...My boat needs to be polished but I can't ever force myself to do it. I haul the supplies down to the boat every week. Once I get there I decide I'd rather sail than have arms so hard I can barely hold a phone/camera! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I guess it's different when your boat sits on the hard every winter--kinda makes it a natural ritual.
Actually, it's not looking as good as I'd have liked... I started with 3M Restorer-Wax on a power buffer, and then overcoated that with WM's (Starbrite's) PTFE polish (without the buffer). The 3M wasn't up to the fading issues this year--next year I'll start with compound. I knew when I had the boat built that getting dark green gelcoat was masochistic, but...... well... it's hard to explain. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Sitting onthe hard would make it easier for me to get the job done. My boat is so bad it's embarassing but I get over it every week.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tomas Kruska</i> <br />Great results Dave and OJ.
@GaryB: one more motivational photo
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> GaryB: one more motivational photo. yada yada yada!!!
I'll be happy to give any one of you highly motivated polishers my dock and slip number if you would like to show me your secrets! I'll provide all the beer and food you like!.
Being in the water year 'round makes it difficult to get a shine on the hull, but on the other hand when I'm sailing I can't see it! I think the only way I'll ever have a shiny hull again is paint.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br />I think the only way I'll ever have a shiny hull again is paint. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...on a '98?? Never!! Come to us for help first!!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br /> I think the only way I'll ever have a shiny hull again is paint.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Steve, I agree with Dave - your boat is <i>way</i> too young for paint. If you are not up to the task - there must a boat detailer near you.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br /> I think the only way I'll ever have a shiny hull again is paint.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Steve, I agree with Dave - your boat is <i>way</i> too young for paint. If you are not up to the task - there must a boat detailer near you. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I wasn't being serious about the paint, just a reflection on the amount of elbow grease it would be require. Before I put her in the water last year I spent literally days working on the reflection, I could get the oxidation off and get it smooth but it just wouldn't shine. Just dull swirls. I had no power available so it was hand cleaning and polishing on a ladder. I'm too old for that, I'll hire someone next time.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br />Is Poliglow really worth the hype?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Poli Glow won't give you the brilliance of OJ's photo, but it will restore an oxidized hull with remarkably little effort. You get a shine--not a mirror.
The first step is getting the surface as clean and mark-free as possible, and remove powdery oxidation. Poly Glow will immortalize any marks. The kit includes a very strong cleaner. (Don't get it on you.)
The next (and last) step is wiping on 4-5 thin coats of what is a lot like floor wax, using their applicator on a stick--one after the other as fast as you care to go. The first soaks in and disappears... the second creates a streaky finish... the third covers most of the streaks... the fourth is generally about when you get a uniform shine. You should be able to do all coats inside of two hours. After that, an annual dress-coat is about all you need. (I don't have experience in southern climates.)
A yard worker who was waxing a boat walked over while I was P-G'ing my C-25... She was amazed by how easy it was and how good it looked. I think I ruined the rest of her day!
I can't think of a reason not to. I used a 3M-type hand scrubber (with the plastic handle) and hosed it off. I'm not sure how environmentally friendly it is...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />I can't think of a reason not to. I used a 3M-type hand scrubber (with the plastic handle) and hosed it off. I'm not sure how environmentally friendly it is... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> It's the environmental part I'm worried about.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by GaryB</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />I can't think of a reason not to. I used a 3M-type hand scrubber (with the plastic handle) and hosed it off. I'm not sure how environmentally friendly it is... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It's the environmental part I'm worried about.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Nothing says you have to use their cleaner--just get her clean. Their cleaner is especially useful for removing Poly Glow--ordinary stuff won't do it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dolivaw</i> <br />I'm afraid my poor boat will need to be painted. The topsides and deck are in sad shape... Plus I think one of the PO's already painted her. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
My boat was already painted by PO (dunno what kind of paint), but I was able to polish it anyway. It was ivory white, but after oxidation removal its near snow white again. I cannot image I would do that by hands only! so I bought a buffer and even that, it was all day event just for the hull. PO did not take care of her for many years, so next year it will be easier for me to re-polish since she is not in that bad shape now. Deck is waiting but I suppose it will be much harder because there are too many corners not reachable by buffer.
Of course she have some scratches and cracks, but hey, she is 34 year old lady so she is allowed to have some wrinkles, like I do
The most important for me is that she is dry and sound.
Since my boat is in all year-round, I apply the poliglow while it is waterborne. Agree with all that Dave indicate regarding benefits of Poliglow for use on older boats that first need the oxidation removed. Poliglow puts a nice shine/glassy appearance that holds up for about a year and then after removing stains, etc only one or two addl costs per year to refresh it's look. However, poliglow does have a small tint to it and so after using it season after season, it does take on a slightly off pure white appearance but using Poliglow especially when the boat is in the water is so easy compared to waxing and buffing.
One thing to watch out for when applying Poliglow, as you do say a 2 foot area and then move down the hull to continue applying (I keep sliding my butt along the finger slip as I complete a side of the hull), ensure you have gone over the previous area sufficiently with the applicator to ensure all drips, etc have been removed. Once you have done an area and a drip remains, it only takes a couple of minutes and that drip will be semi-permanently set onto the hull. When a drip is missed and has hardened, it can be removed but it generally requires using the Poliprep Oxidation cleaner to remove the drip and then touch up the area with Poliglow once again.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I used a 3M-type hand scrubber (with the plastic handle) and hosed it off. I'm not sure how environmentally friendly it is...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I did the same when I got my boat to remove the heavy oxidation. Just kept the hose running while I lightly scrubbed the deck and cockpit with a 3M scrubby.. Did a great job and was very easy to just polish afterward but I did get a white stream of water running off the boat. My hull didn't need it for it had a good shine on it.
I never tried doing it while afloat, but because the application is literally just "wipe-on" with an applicator on a stick, it makes sense that it would be much easier than almost anything else--especially if you can reach everything from a dock.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.