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 Battery charger
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tweeet65
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/08/2012 :  15:43:02  Show Profile
Good day salts,

Need a new batt charger for Alacrity. I have a deep cycle "house" and a starting bat for the 9.9 Yamaha. The "Guest 5/5" gets good reviews. Is 5 amps enuf? Any suggestions?

Too hot here in Pendleton/Boardman to sail, looking forwrd to fall.

Thanks in advanace, good sailing.

Dave

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 :  17:03:55  Show Profile
Starting batteries are for inboards, first I would get two identical deep cycle batteries then buy a nice marine charger that functions as a power source when plugged into shore power. Some chargers cannot stand up to running the house when at the dock. Small Guests were mentioned in other threads as failing when used as a DC source.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 :  17:14:26  Show Profile
I have a 6A Pro Sport that fits my needs, but it depends on how much recovery time you normally have. I can easily spend a weekend on my two Deep cycle 27"s and the charger drives my 12v needs while on shorepower. And Frank is right, a 9.9 outboard only pulls about 30 starting amps, well within the deep cycle's capacity.

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JKBIXBY
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 :  20:13:23  Show Profile
I've had a Guest 2611 on my boat since 2001 and no problems.
It is the 5/5 style. Would recommend it.
John on MsAchsa 77 FK/SR

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5500 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 :  20:38:45  Show Profile
If accidentally pulling too much current from the battery charger could result in the failure of the charger, you can always put a 5A fuse in line with the 12VDC side of the charger. It will save the output from over-current.
A more convenient device is a 5A thermal circuit breaker instead of a fuse. The thermal breaker will cut out when the circuit exceeds 5A for a second or two. After a little while, it will cool off and automatically reset, so you don't need to go looking for a replacement fuse.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5500 Posts

Response Posted - 08/08/2012 :  20:49:20  Show Profile
If you are charging 2 group 27 batteries using a 6A charger, it can take a while. If you run the battery down to 1/2 charge (40AH), then during recharging each battery would receive 3A. To replace 40AH, it would take 13.33 hours to fully recharge (at 100% efficiency), but you probably only get 80%, so you'd have to charge the batteries for about 17 hours.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2012 :  16:02:17  Show Profile
Right, Bruce. I use a 50% discharge limit and rarely discharge one battery that far on a weekend. It is a single output 6A connected through the battery switch and I alternate batteries so they both get cycled through the season. My needs are met, but it might not suffice for others.

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2012 :  19:56:10  Show Profile
True 12V converter / chargers will not be three stage chargers (Bulk, Absorption, Float) or have will have a settings to turn off Absorption mode. Using 12V appliances while a charger is connected causes the system voltage to drop without depleting the battery. A 2 or 3-stage charger will kick into Bulk mode to provide current to the appliances and all is fine until the load is removed. The 2-stage charger recognizes the battery is charged and drops to float, where the 3-stage charger thinks you just connected a depleted battery applies an Absorption cycle. The risk is worst to sealed batteries since you can't add water for all these overcharge cycles.

This advice is more to a live a board. If you are overnight charging and using appliances, the battery is already depleted and could use the extra absorption cycle(s).

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redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2012 :  21:48:35  Show Profile
Wally world sells a 15a automatic charger that handles STD, AGM and Gel batteries and will equalize, fast charge, and trickle charge for about $60 as I recall. I bought one as a backup to the onboard system and so that I could make the most out of a few hours of dock time every so often while cruising...

sten

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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2012 :  23:26:52  Show Profile
Go for gold. My 115 Ah flooded battery sucked up 35A for half hour until 15.5 volts, then absorption took over (charged from 11.7 volts in under an hour). Why I have a 100A charger? Came with the inverter.

The equalize function is fun to run. Decent concept: a controlled overcharge (up to 17.5V in a generic flooded battery) to generate gas on the plates to stir electrolyte and dislodge accumulated sulfates. Nice WalmArt sells a charger with that has that function.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3521 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2012 :  03:34:51  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage
I have a Guest 5+5 which is directly hooked up into my AC circuit. I rarely use it. I use it when I visit another marina overnight. I have very light loads consisting of mostly the fishfinder, sometimes the nav light use when sailing and when dockside, occasionally my mini-boombox, some cabin LED lights and maybe my fans but I usually do not run them that long and then only on slow speed. The Guest charger works fine for those overnighters when in another marina but again, I have rather light loads requiring recharging.

For daily recharging, my 20 watt Kyocera solar panel is sufficient. I invested in that 7 years ago, since my marina charges separately for electricity and for my boat would be $20/month which I have never signed up for as the panel takes care of my recharging. My batteries are estimated at about 8 years old. I have had them for 7 years and the PO had them for at least 1 year. Initially, they had a standing voltage of about 13.1 or 13.2 volts but thru the years, that has now dropped to about 12.8 or 12.9 volts. I suspect a battery changeout is coming but so far, not needed yet.

My website has details of various electrical upgrades - New switch panel below the sink, accessible from the cockpit to turn on the nav lights and etc loads, though, my old panel is still functioning as well for a couple of loads I did not transfer over (ie. VHF). I installed the charger, shown below, switch panel, fans, solar panel, accessory DC plugs, rewired mast and probably leaving out one or two addl things.


Edited by - OLarryR on 08/13/2012 03:37:29
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RRMarsh
Deckhand

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New Zealand
2 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2013 :  03:29:37  Show Profile
I have Projecta MC400 Battery Charger myself. Got mixed reviews but does intended job at best. Never had any issues. Here is the link for more suggestions: http://www.mrpositive.co.nz/lead-acid-and-automotive-battery-chargers/

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blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2013 :  03:52:03  Show Profile
i have the ProMariner Pro Sports 12

http://www.pmariner.com/productFeature.php?ProductNum=42012&page=0

it charges quickly my 2 regular batteries (no starting battery) and i can use all my accessories (all lights are LEDs) and music player (small iPod speakers) while it's charging, i like it

during the winter i bring the batteries and charger home and leave the plugged all winter (it goes on a trickle charge when the batteries are full

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2013 :  06:38:50  Show Profile
I found a solar setup to provide plenty of juice for the 2 group 24 batteries on my Catalina 25. We had a 20 watt panel, but if I had spec'd it I'd have gone for a 30 watt.

Between that and the alternator in the motor the current batteries have never seen another charger.

Our DC uses were very light. All lighting was via LEDs, there is a VHF, depth finder, and autopilot. 2 group 24 batteries were probably overkill, doing it again I think I'd have gone with a single one and used the extra space as storage.

I agree that starting batteries are not necessary for sailboat-sized outboards. Should your house batteries die you'll start it by pulling the cord. If you do think you need a starting battery than the new way of handling one is a lot better.

The new way is:
* two battery banks, house and starting
* all charging goes to the house bank
* starting battery is charged from the house bank using an "Echo Charger". Xantrex makes one, there are others too.
* Switching is handled using a switch like this:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/6011200/m-Series_Mini_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch_-_Black

It is normally left on "On", which powers house loads off of the house battery, and starter loads off of the starting battery. If your house or starter batteries die you turn it to "Combine".

This setup completely isolates the two systems and removes all requirements to think about switching battery banks after the engine is started.

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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2013 :  07:10:22  Show Profile
Our boat came with a Guest 2611. Been happy with it.

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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 07/03/2013 :  20:35:56  Show Profile
After recommending the Guest, mine has died, but it did provide 13 years of service. I did dislike discovering that they filled the entire unit with plastic (I imagine they pour liquid plastic into the housing) which made t completely unserviceable.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2013 :  11:04:57  Show Profile
I liked my Charles (marine UL)




Edited by - pastmember on 07/04/2013 11:13:12
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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2013 :  12:07:30  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by awetmore</i>
<br />
* Switching is handled using a switch like this:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/6011200/m-Series_Mini_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch_-_Black

It is normally left on "On", which powers house loads off of the house battery, and starter loads off of the starting battery. If your house or starter batteries die you turn it to "Combine".

This setup completely isolates the two systems and removes all requirements to think about switching battery banks after the engine is started.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The solar panel is a great idea. As is the echo charger.

WADR, the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch is an incorrect application for a sailboat, it is good for small console fishing boats that start and stop their engines often.

A simple 1-2-B switch, properly wired, is a much better solution.

Why? Because all the DCP switch does when one battery is dead is to combine a good battery with a dead one, the very last thing you want to do.

You may be interested in this:

AGM Battery Issues and the Blue Seas Dual Circuit Switch (from Maine Sail) "DARN AGM Batteries"
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=848465&highlight=darn%20agm

While it discusses AGMs, the point about the DCP is discussed at length.

If you have the DCP, before you switch to both, disconnect the dead battery.

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 07/04/2013 12:08:12
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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2013 :  12:40:00  Show Profile
Here's a gpood charger recommendation

Wiring a new charger From Maine Sail: http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136765

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