Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Out racing last week and when tacking we found the jib kept getting caught up on the stanchion lines (135% jib fully out)and the crew had to continuely go forward to skirt it inboard. Tried a pair of Ronstan wheels on the stanchion lines but they are too small for the lines.
So far as I know, there is no solution, Hugh, other than to assign one of your crew to the duty of skirting the jib after every tack. I have been crewing on lots of boats on the Chesapeake Bay, including some of the hottest racers, and the good crews have someone assigned to skirt the jib, and the rest can't seem to remember it from one tack to the next. On my C25, I could often reach forward and skirt the jib without leaving the cockpit, but sometimes you just need someone to go forward and lift it over the stanchions. I have seen a failure to skirt the jib tear holes in two very expensive racing jibs, so it's really important to do it. Cruisers, with roller furlers and higher-cut jibs, don't have this problem. It's usually only a problem with a deck-sweeping racing jib. It's a consequence of having a racing jib that is cut to provide the maximum legal sail area. If you also have a racing mainsail, with a huge roach, you'll also find that the roach gets caught on the backstay when you tack, which is another nuisance, but it's the price you have to pay for having really fast sails. I crew on some big, expensive racers that require someone to ease the backstay adjuster and pluck the backstay like a guitar string to get the mainsail past the backstay, because it gets hung up when you tack in lighter winds.
But, cheer up! The fact that you're asking the question says you are probably trimming your jib well on the windward leg (unless you're overtrimming it), and, if your helmsmanship is as good as your sail trim, you're probably doing well on the windward legs.
I don't race, but I have a couple of thoughts based on our experience.
We have a 110 with a pretty high cut, and don't have this problem. When I had to replace my headsail, I knew that we do a lot of tacking in our relatively narrow river (~1 mile wide), so ease of tacking was paramount.
But we recently chartered a C36 with a 135 and noticed some similar problems to what you describe (even though it was not a deck-sweeper). One cause of the problem was the two big, bulky bowline knots that the owner had used to secure the two (separate) genoa sheets to the clew. I believe that a single (double-length) genoa sheet secured to the clew with a simple cow-hitch is better because the knot is more compact and lighter weight, and therefore has less tendency to get hung up on shrouds, lifelines, etc. You may also want to make sure your sheets are not oversized, since that makes the problem worse. I think that 3/8" is the recommended diameter for C250. You might do even better going down to 5/16" if your racing rules allow, and if your self-tailers can grip it OK.
I'm not sure this would help you situation, but it's worth a look.
Thanks for all the feedback, I tried to slow the tacks compared to usual to facilitate this issue, we sail short hand (wife and I) like the idea regarding the cow hitch and thinner line.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.