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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Cleaning Vinyl Covered Lifelines
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britinusa
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Initially Posted - 09/16/2012 :  06:41:10  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
I have tried all sorts of cleaning gunk to get the Vinyl lifeline covering clean, none of them worked well and all required a crazy amount of effort.

Then on our last sail, I had to refuel the generator tank at anchor. Being a little A.Retentive about that, I always have several sheets of paper towel to catch any drops and to dry off the spout and filler opening of the tanks. So after the refuel I had paper towels with less than a teaspoon of gasoline.

On a whim, I wiped down the grotty white (mucky grey) Vinyl covers on the lifelines: MAGIC! They came up pretty well spotless in a couple of wipes, no scrubbing, just wipe back and forth and they were bright and white.

Who'daknew?

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.


Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4316 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2012 :  07:08:50  Show Profile
Nice to know.

Had you tried Mr. Clean Magic Erasers before? They work pretty good for a lot of hard to clean stains.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 09/16/2012 :  07:13:24  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Mr. Clean, yep, failed the test, were a dirty nano mess by the time I did one side of the lifelines.

BTW, so far I'm not impressed with the Magic Erasers, but I have not tried them on mildew/spots on fiberglass yet.

Paul

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redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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1771 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2012 :  23:17:35  Show Profile
Petroleum products will work, but what they will also do is soften the vinyl and leave it even more vulnerable to staining from pollution, which is usually the cause. Un coated is the way to go. No hidden corrosion. I'd strip them.

sten

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 09/17/2012 :  03:20:23  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Scotchbrite pads, done.

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Prospector
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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 09/17/2012 :  05:23:50  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
What red said - I think the gaz-o-lina is doing is actually eating away the vinyl itself. Thats a good thing if you want to buy new parts.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 09/17/2012 :  16:05:41  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
So, if I use gasoline often enough, I won't have to strip the vinyl off to make them naked?

Sounds like a plan.



Paul

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redviking
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Response Posted - 09/17/2012 :  22:14:55  Show Profile
Soften em up and then take a razor blade to them. One good solid cut in the middle to the core and then grab and end and they should just peel off. Too much gas and you will have trouble pulling on them...

sten

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TakeFive
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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2012 :  04:04:41  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redviking</i>
<br />Soften em up and then take a razor blade to them. One good solid cut in the middle to the core and then grab and end and they should just peel off. Too much gas and you will have trouble pulling on them...

sten
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Before Paul does this, be forewarned that the underlying wire will likely be very brown from crevice corrosion. It could be ugly down there. It may be better to continue to use them as is, and plan for replacement with uncoated wire at some point.

Many people dislike the vinyl coated wire because it increases crevice corrosion, which could lead to premature failure without warning.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 09/18/2012 :  04:16:17  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Agreed about the crevice corrosion issue.

I experienced a nasty many years ago when a fishhook wire snag ripped my skin on a dinghy. Very messy at the time, and something worth preventing in the future.

Is Vectran a viable (cost/suitability) alternative?

Paul

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NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2012 :  05:46:56  Show Profile
$40 worth of Amsteel, and 2 snap shackles. Done!


I've had it now for 2-3 months and love it. So much easier to get in and out, and to lay it down since it's so flexible. Plus it weighs next to nothing.

Edited by - NautiC25 on 09/24/2012 05:47:16
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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3704 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2012 :  12:19:29  Show Profile
Magic Eraser is a great cleaning tool for fiberglass in my experience. Paul, did you try the Vinyl cleaner from StarBrite? We use it on our lifelines with good results.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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4479 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2012 :  12:41:09  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i>
<br />$40 worth of Amsteel, and 2 snap shackles. Done!


I've had it now for 2-3 months and love it. So much easier to get in and out, and to lay it down since it's so flexible. Plus it weighs next to nothing.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've been thinking about doing this for a while, and I actually have some Vectra or Dyneema that was given to me a while back to do it with. I scared the crap out of myself this past Saturday, I was re-attaching the starboard life line, which is the least used one, and the gate shackle thingy popped off in my hand just as I snapped it closed on the eye. If it hadn't snapped closed, I'd have probably lost it over the side. The reason? The fitting had rotated to it's very last thread and the "lock nut" had backed off in the other direction (or more likely it hadn't moved at all, just the gate had rotated over time away from it)! It was a very good thing it happened at the dock instead of having one of our guests go swimming because they leaned against it! I quickly tightened up the nuts & checked the other side without looking alarmed so as not to frighten my guests. I plan to put some Nylocks on there instead of just backing nuts. However, I like the idea of the Dyneema / Amsteel in there instead of possibly corroded lifelines, they've been coated with vinyl for as long as we've had the boat & I'd bet they're close to if not original.

What knot did you use to tie in the Amsteel? I've got spare snap shackles I can use for the gate ends and I think I've got some SS shackles for the other ends.

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NautiC25
Admiral

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957 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2012 :  12:59:07  Show Profile
I spliced small loops in one end and whipped the other ends. Then used a cowhitch to secure the loop to the base of the front pulpit. Then sent the line through the stanchions, tied a stopper knot at the gate stanchion, then a bowline for the snap shackles, all the while pulling the line tight.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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1144 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2012 :  15:36:38  Show Profile
Amsteel has good splicing instructions for making the loops.
http://www.samsonrope.com/splicing-instructions.cfm

You want "Eye Splice for Class 2". I give that link because it has both text and video. They work with huge line, but smaller works the same way.

I need to replace the lifelines on my new boat and will probably use Amsteel instead of stainless. It looks like a good winter project.

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NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2012 :  04:29:02  Show Profile
I had a post where I wanted to modify my current lifelines because my jibs kept hanging on the forward lifeline.
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=25044&whichpage=2&SearchTerms=lifelines

So I lowered the forward attachment point and went to Amsteel. It's much lighter and easier on the hands. Not to mention cheaper. Win, win, all the way around.

Edited by - NautiC25 on 09/25/2012 04:29:48
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