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Tips on sailing on headsail only?

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2012 : 09:01:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 ...I think we should experiment with it before we pass judgment on it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I wasn't passing judgement--just trying to understand it. Sten's earlier description didn't make sense--his later one (centering the sail and then adding some slack to both sheets) is more like what I was envisioning. Cupping from the windward sheet probably affects the lower part of the sail more than the upper, and some drive can undoubtedly be generated with the right amount of slack. If the objective is easy tacking while beating into a blow, I don't doubt something like this can work--I was just unclear on Sten's initial description.

However, if you release or substantially ease the windward sheet after the tack so the leeward sheet takes over, then you've essentially screwed up the "self-tending" setup.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 09/27/2012 09:04:20

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2012 : 11:13:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 [quote]However, if you release or substantially ease the windward sheet after the tack so the leeward sheet takes over, then you've essentially screwed up the "self-tending" setup.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">A self-tending jib doesn't necessarily eliminate the need to trim the jib. It eliminates the need to tail a long jibsheet every time the boat tacks. You might still need to trim the jib for optimal shape for the boat's course relative to the wind. A true self-tending jib would eliminate all but a little trimming of the jib when tacking from closehauled to closehauled, but this isn't a true self-tending jib. This is a quasi self-tending jib. I don't think Sten is claiming that this method works exactly like a self-tending jib. He's just saying that it works similarly, and has some of the advantages of a self-tending jib. I think he's suggesting that it's a way you can rig the boat to eliminate some hard winch grinding when tacking to windward and shorthanded in heavy weather.

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redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2012 : 11:20:02

I guess it was a rather simple explanation.

"Now as far as tips go, roll up the roller curling up to the point where the headsail clears the rigging. Loosen both sheets a bit so that it works, and you now have a self racking jib. Rig the main, hopefully from the cockpit into its second reef. Now you have a self tacking boat that is easy to handle in heavy weather."

sten

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2012 : 11:23:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
I'm guilty of another hijack here...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Some people get annoyed when a thread goes off on a tangent, but I'd rather see it be more freewheeling, and going wherever the members interests take it. IMO, it's your forum, and you can use it however you wish.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...but most APs have parameters that you can tune to increase sensitivity in rough weather. There are tradeoffs to this, because they can go unstable in calm weather (oscillating course where the oscillations grow). I was able to set my Raymarine ST4000+ to display the tuning parameters on the screen, enabling me to adjust them on the fly. I use a very low gain in mild weather, but increase it in rougher weather. There are other parameters as well, but I generally don't need to mess with them when the weather changes.

Sometimes weather is so rough that no settings will help the AP. AP's can only do feedback loops - your eyes look ahead and do feed-forward, which is better than any AP can do.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You have to see my AP to appreciate it. It probably is original to the boat (1983), and it has to be mounted in place and adjusted whenever you use it. It's a good quality device for it's era, but it's primitive by modern standards.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 09/27/2012 11:30:34

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 09/27/2012 : 11:29:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redviking
 [quote]When I singlehand, I will turn auto off, manually tack to my new course, engage auto and start trimming the leeward sheet before releasing the windward sheet. Pretty painless that way.

sten
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yeah, that would be the way to do it, but I don't trust my old AP to hold a course in rough weather. It's very slow to react. I need a new AP. Maybe I'll put it in my budget for 2019.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Find an old school below decks hydraulic unit. Have Bacons keep a lookout for you. Bolts straight to the quadrant so if the wheel cable goes, you can still steer the damn thing! Also, tends to be stronger than wheelpilots. That rubber band system leaves a lot to be desired in heavy weather. My AP has failed me only once, and that was in big seas and 25 plus AFTER we put a reef in and upset the sail plan. After an hour or two, shook it out and the AP stayed on course the rest of the night.

sten
sten

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