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Getting ready for the long winters projects.

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2013 : 18:57:29

FINALLY faired! 2 part interprotect going on... boy that stuff is toxic!

I swear it came out better than I expected.

Edited by - shnool on 02/27/2013 18:59:01

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2013 : 04:37:41

More pictures at https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+2057+100

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2013 : 13:55:44

Gaining some ground now on getting the bottom done. If anyone is still with me, and survived my want to purchase XAS spinlocks... well, I'd love to... but $$$ isn't there... so I'll be replacing the cam cleats, for now. Next year's to-do lists are already lining up... so maybe. I am thinking topsides/spinlocks/and windows.

<center>

Starboard...
I`m very happy with how the boat is shaping up below the water line.</center>
<center>

Ok my fairing is terrible
but it`s lightyears better than it was before and frankly, within spec for shape!</center>

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 05:41:33

You certainly have had your work cut out for you this winter !! But it looks like you are past the heavy duty work and will be on-time for the season. Great photos of the Interprotect and bottom paint !

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 06:07:15

God willing... topsides next. Ordering paint this week. Now which color... only have 3 choices because of the color of my sail covers (blue)... my choices are blue, black, or red. I tend towards red, because I am funny that way.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 09:05:43

How about light grey.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3466 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 13:08:18

Maybe certain colors are better during long term in sunlight. My thought is that red may not stand up that well. Since you have blue and black on the list, why not go with a deep navy blue. You may also want to go down to a marina (okay winter-time population may be limited) and see how some hulls with a topside color look and have held up thru the years.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 14:40:23

Larry good idea.. 2 problems.. There are no docks in my marina now (water is solid, actually the club is participating in ice sailing today). Navy blue is stellar, but we have a J/24 that color, and it's a friend of mine, and I'd rather not "copy," him.

A fellow club member went red with Pettit, and it's a stellar looking boat (on it's 5th year with the finish). Oh and the Navy Blue is "Perfection" is on it's 3rd year (still looks good). Royal blue is a maybe. Honestly hadn't thought about sun fade (if that is the case maybe black)... I put my ideas out there mostly to find out whose tried any of these colors (for just what you mention). If I had my drother's I'd actually pick hunter green. But since all my canvas is blue, it'd look funny. I've wanted hunter green on a sailboat since I was 7. My father and I looked at a brand new Hunter in that color at a boat show, and I still think it's a classy sailboat color.

Anyway... Back to projects... I had one of these before, loved it, wanted another. I was "Browsing" defender (bad idea by the way)... Like window shopping, only, VIRTUAL money doesn't hurt right away when you click BUY. But I guess I looked at the gauge, and added it to cart... left it for a few days, and when I came back to buy the last 2 cleats, I manged to leave the gauge in by "accident." Oh well wanted one anyway:
<center>

Lev O Gauge
I bought one of these for the last boat and loved it I was toying with purchasing another... Must have left it in my cart (BONUS).</center>
Replacing 1 on starboard, Harken 150 with fairlead. I had to replace the flathead screws (cause they stink) with phillips. harken says use #10 bolts. I found LOTS of Phillips #10 in 2", and nothing larger. Finally my local hardware store had countersink 3" #10. So I went with those, and used my favorite tool (the dremel with reinforced cutting wheel to "shorten them up.").
<center>

Full Harken 150 with fairlead
I installed with countersink bolts. The original bolts annoyed me they were flatheads. </center>
3 on starboard
<center>

3 up Installed
For those that answered my Rope Clutches post.. I had these cleats... I could not afford to get clutches yet.</center>
<center>

Port Side got it too
The Port Side got both replaced as well.</center>

Edited by - shnool on 03/03/2013 14:44:11

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 14:45:19

Wow look how dirty that deck is... ugh. As soon as I get daylight and weather 50 or above, she's getting dragged out and power washed!

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2013 : 21:27:51

In regards to your black plastic inclinometer. Looks fine !

I decided this winter to replace the old faded one with a new white plastic inclinometer. It's somewhat similar to yours but in white, made by Rieker. While the old one which was faded, incline degrees not easily read, I lived with it for many years until I installed this new one. Now that the new one is installed, there is something about it, maybe that it is white, maybe because it is made of plastic, that it now bothers me a bit. I may just get used to it as it really is not such a big deal anyway. However, I was recently searching for alternatives that were made of bronze/wood. The below is also an option but the indicator may be harder to read than the bubble in the new one I recently installed. I may just let this go....but....you never know. On a whim, I may buy/install the thing.

Edited by - OLarryR on 03/03/2013 21:29:15

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2013 : 04:46:27

Larry, I was expecting that to cost $100 or more... wow, prices were very reasonable, and I agree, it's a beautiful device! I think that is $10 more than I paid! http://www.stanleylondon.com/inclinometer.htm nice find.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2013 : 15:32:45

John,

Same here ! I also paid only about $10 less for my plastic inclinometer at West Marine. I am not sure but the Stanley London one above may be plastic made to look like wood but the rest of it is either brass or bronze. My concerns if I bought it would be if it would be as visible as the bubble on our plastic inclinometers and that since this one is round, it means that perhaps the screws used to install the plastic inclinometer may after filled in may still show since the perimeter of the round inclinometer is wide only at the mid-point and the screw holes would probably be above the widest part. Not a big deal either way...leaving the white or black plastic one or replacing it with the round one. Probably best to wait on this and I will probably forget about it while sailing. Right now during the winter, these things take on more importance than they deserve. Anyway...just wanted to share it with you.

Edited by - OLarryR on 03/04/2013 15:33:10

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 17:27:06

I done did it.. ordered the paint today.. Fire Red for topsides, and bright white for cove and boot stripes (I may just do boot stripe, depends how it turns out).

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2013 : 09:05:56

Oh I am digging through this listing, and I show that I went into high detail about installing the bow eye, and totally missed that I installed the rudder post bushings.

Some issues I ran into with that...
1. you have to prop up the rudder from below, because once you remove the bolt the rudder just drops! Of course I did this.
2. The bolt through the tiller-rudder-post was bent slightly. It came out OK... but I noted it taking it out.
3. Replacing the washer/bushings is easy once you drop the rudder out... You drop the rudder out, put 1 bushing on, lube the post up, put it back on... On the flip side I put the shaft back up in, placed the cap on, tried to put a replacement (I think 5/16 by 3") bolt I had through, and could not get it to align. The trick was to put pressure on the rudder to force it flat up into the boat. I did this by placing a motor stand under the rudder, and shimming up under it... then raising the dolly on the trailer, to compress the rudder into the boat. Once I did this, I was able to shove a phillips head screwdriver through the hole. Then TAPPING the bolt through from the opposite side, it slowly took up the space that the screwdriver occupied... It took about 30 minutes for me to get it all to line up. The whole time I worried that my contraption for holding the rudder up was going to collapse, dropping my nicely painted rudder on the floor!

Just thought I'd share... if you CAN, do this with 2 people, it should make it a lot easier!

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2013 : 09:35:36

I put the plastic inclinometer on each bulkhead so I could see it on both tacks.

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2013 : 09:56:00

Anyone have tips for removing blue stain (from sanding ablative bottom paint dust then walking on the hull with it) from the deck? I submit that it's probably very much like painting the deck with a very fine coat of ablative :)

Oh and sanding it off is really not an option because I am quite sure the deck was painted at one point.

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2013 : 18:26:06

Ugh... well I knew I had a few more things to do to this bottom job, mostly under the support pads. Well (I did the first one in about 25 minutes)... took me about 20 to get the other one setup, and scraped.. then OH NO! first blister HALT!

Cut out and grind out the blister back to good fibers... sand around it... and now I wait.... time to let it dry.

Then I'll fill with water tight compound fair, barrier coat, and VC17m.

Edited by - shnool on 03/25/2013 18:30:56

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2013 : 07:25:57

Ok, well while I was waiting for my blister watertight compound to dry, so I could fair, and barrier coat, I decided it was time to start work on the topsides. I started rolling and tipping after I quick sanded with 80 grit. To be fair, my topsides were a disaster. Someone painted them 15+ years ago with a 2 part epoxy paint (they did a great job, seriously), but it was well overdue for replacement, and there were nicks through the white into the gelcoat light blue. There was some bubbling/cracking in places from where it just plain wore out. I went cheap, and chose a 1 part polyurethane, the brand (interlux, they've made some products I've used here that I've been very impressed with, and while I am quite sure other manufacturers have had great products too, Interlux has yet to let me down) I chose was Brightsides, in fire red.

This was before:
<center>

Ugly Boat before
This is what the boat looked like before.. The boat`s original color was light blue with dark blue boot and cove stripes. About 15 years ago someone painted the boat off-white with blue coave and boot stripes.</center>

This was coat number 1, roll and tip:
<center>

First roll and tip
This is Interlux Brightsides fire red. Its a one part poly, yep gonna take a couple coats - seeing through the paint.</center>

I am astonished at how thick the paint is, how tough it dries (very sticky, doesn't peel off easy), and most importantly how shiny it is. I've read that the Brightsides is at best a 5 year paint. OK, I think I can overcoat it every 4 years or so.

Here's a link to the whole album. I'll update pictures as I get more painting done.
[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+2057+112"]
Capri Topside Paint[/url]

Oh and you may not be able to notice, since the BRIGHT red is shining in your face here... but the bottom paint went from RED VC17m, to Copper VC17m. There are 4 coats of bottom paint on the boat, and it should be obvious when it wears off through the copper color, when we hit red, it'll be time to repaint (probably 2 seasons). Thank you Brian again for the bargain priced VC17m, again I put it to good use!

Edited by - shnool on 04/01/2013 07:42:45

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 08:01:31

Oh I'm gonna keep going with this thread to drive everyone nuts... More toys ....
<center>

More toys
New jib rollers for spreaders and lifelines.</center>

Installed:
<center>

Installed on a shroud
This is the jib roller installed on the shroud (I wanted space above the spreader in case the spreader has to move) For lifeline it says to install next to a stanchion so the roller doesn't move far, but far enough away to allow it to spin.</center>

Edited by - shnool on 04/09/2013 08:27:56

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 08:02:38

Another new tool... Boy I think I've spent MORE on tools for this boat, than I did the boat...
<center>

New Sprayer
Had enough of roll and tip gonna try to spray, this should be MORE disasterous! Well if it looks like garbage, I`ll tell everyone my 9yo daughter helped!</center>

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 08:07:39

I had a friend ask how I got the bottom work done on the boat... well here's a distance shot of the boat, balanced on the temporary floor jack (48-54" model), with the jack dead center under the bow... I flopped the boat back and forth using bow lines tied off to either side of the garage.
<center>

Balanced on the keel
I placed the temp floor jack under the bow and actually lowered the dolly. I then balanced the boat with lines to the bow cleats, flopping port or starboard as I worked.</center>
This should give you a good idea how far I can drop the support pads on the trailer... it gives me about 8-10 inches to work if I can lift the boat enough... What you see in gray is barrier coat, obviously the copper color is VC17m, red. I did 2 coats red and 2 coats copper. Barrier coat I am at I think 4 or 5 coats. Depending how you mix the barrier coat it can go on thin or thick... at 3:1 (recommended) it's pretty thick, at like 4:1 its super thick but takes longer to dry.
<center>

Bottom in progress
This shows how I painted barrier then VC17 this is first coat of 4 around the pad.</center>

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 11:41:18

A 45lb package arrived supposedly at the "garage" for me today. Let's HOPE it is at MY garage (and not someone else's), heheheh (long story on that one). If it truly has found my little house in the woods, then I am the proud owner of 2 finely crafted in the USA, sails from Eilliot Pattison http://www.epsails.com/Race_sails.html a 155 and a mainsail.

I'll post pictures once I open my booty.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 18:40:56

Ok, MORE toys arrived, this one I've waited months for... and worth every minute! These Elliott Pattison sails seem sweet. http://www.epsails.com/

<center>

Gotta roll it now
Now we roll it up proper for long term storage.</center>
155 Genny

<center>

Super look
This looks like one hard working race sail... I like the detail. Can`t wait to try it out.</center>
The new main with 1 reef point... Boy that is a sexy sail... Nice Job Harry!

Edited by - shnool on 04/09/2013 18:59:57

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2013 : 08:05:46

Well I officially finished the bottom last night (raised the pad on the trailer, and buttoned it back up).
I tried to spray on (non-thinned) brightsides for the port side 2nd coat... it looked terrible... so I continued with roll&tip which surprisingly worked better than the last time I did it (maybe I am getting better, maybe the weather conditions were better, last time it was 30 degrees outside, 55 inside and my heater was working overtime to keep up) last night was 60degrees and probably 70% humidity.

Stupid me lowered the bow down from the jack (after all I finished painting the bottom) and I forgot I removed the bow bumper on the winch post (to paint you know) - GOUGE! darnit.. stupid me... grumble grumble grumble... Jack it back up, patch.

Putting on coat number 3 tonight... I've decided if the 4 coats of brightsides won't cover the old blue cove stripe, I'll paint it white as well... I am at crunch time now, and am scrambling to get done (surprise!).

Edited by - shnool on 04/11/2013 08:06:53

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2013 : 08:41:12

John,

You are doing a great job !! Keeping us all up to latest status. Looks like you can see now see the end of the tunnel with the light shining bright and be in time for the Spring season. A lot to be proud of but...what are you going to do next year ?

I still have not considered whether to buy that inclinometer or not. It really is not necessary but does look nice. Not sure if that is enough of a reason to buy it. Right now my interests are focused on waiting for a new car to arrive and gearing up for it and what to do with my other cars. So....minimal work done on my boat this year. last year was my big year having the blister work and Interprotect put on and I also had the standing rigging replaced. My big projects this winter have been resolving binding in my outboard motor bracket, replacing the furling line and ordering a new sunbrella cover for top works of my outboard. That's about it ! Oh ! I also bought a pair of Sperry Topsider shorts. Definitely a lot of labor went into that project !

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