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Changed my oil today

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5430 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/16/2013 : 18:09:17

Got down to the boatyard today and set about to change the oil. This is the first step before my splash in April. I found out that I could use an automotive oil filter @ $6.99, a Mobil model 6607 type. Fit the Honda like a glove!
I was changing it up thinking of those nice warm summer days to come - and then it started to snow! Poof went my imagination.
Tomorrow, the sun's supposed to come out with temps in the low 40s. Next step will be to change the bottom unit oil.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4029 Posts

Response Posted - 03/17/2013 : 08:13:58

The auto parts stores will cross reference any filter. You don't have to use the Honda brand. Honda has someone else make their filters ( Wix, Fram, Purolator etc.) and just re-brands them. For instance Fram's filter number might be something like PH6607. Try a Google search for Oil filter cross reference chart also. Bruce, Shame on you for not changing the oil back in the fall, It's not good to leave the old oil in the engine over the winter. The old contaminated oil attacks the metal parts inside.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5430 Posts

Response Posted - 03/17/2013 : 15:38:36

Scott. I change the oil 2x a season : March and August.
Change the filter once a year. Probably not much different than FL and SoCal sailors.
The oil looked about the same color coming out as going in.
I was very surprised about the exact interchange (screw threads, rubber gasket and canister size) of the automotive type filter.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 03/24/2013 : 20:57:32

Checked the bottom unit oil yesterday. Was golden honey color. I let most of it run out but for the life of me I don't see why. The new stuff I put in was exactly the same color and consistency. Can't be too careful though.

Today we him 50°F (10°C). I decided I'd check the carb and the water pump impeller at the same time. I filled a 7gal (26 l) bucket with water, connected the gas line and started it up. I immediately disconnected the fuel line and let the carburator bowl run dry. Nice stream of water shot out of the drain hole until the engine konked out. I disconnected the kill lanyard and it cranked a few more times to drain the water. I'm hopeful I can splash in five weeks' time with the engine running at full speed.

Next project is scraping bottom paint and prepping the hull then repainting ablative. The spring 2013 list includes:
1. Cetol on the brightwork
2. Clean everything
3. Rebed stanchions
4. Drop the mast - check rigging, windex, sheaves and lights
5. Add a 12VDC 20A receptacle under the starboard settee
6. Reinstall rudder and tiller
7. Install Lowes' $30 LED puck lights in the galley
8. Add portable cockpit speakers with a 4-way plug to the radio/sound system
9. Poly-prep and Poli-Glo the hull.
5 weekends could be cutting it close…
some things I've got to do now, others post splash.

Edited by - Voyager on 03/24/2013 21:03:54

islander
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4029 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2013 : 12:45:25

Your making me sweat Bruce, I must be splashing the same as you, End of April but with the weather not giving me a break (cold and windy) I haven't done a thing yet but will start this weekend for sure. Don't have as much on the toodoo list as you. Its really not that the lower end oil is old but more to see if you have a bad seal. Our 50 hrs or less on the oil doesn't really warrant a change otherwise.
Things to do
Bottom paint- Brewers does it now, I just pay
Remove winter cover
Power wax hull
Engine is in garage, serviced and just has to be hung
Rudder in basement, Just has to be hung
Put interior back together
Set up dock
Huh.. Maybe I had better stop, This list is starting to get too long....

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5430 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2013 : 18:54:07

Ouch! I have to completely clean the interior before I can put it together. I need to sweep and mop, wipe down the interior with Clorox wipes and Mr Clean Magic Erasers.
I just got my new safety flares today - West Marine charged my $32! They're good until July 2016.
Now I need a four conductor plug/receptacle for my "add on" speakers. I need something like a trailer lighting receptacle and plug so I can remove the speakers when I don't need them. I guess I'll try Radio Shack.

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TakeFive
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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2013 : 19:03:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 ...Now I need a four conductor plug/receptacle for my "add on" speakers. I need something like a trailer lighting receptacle and plug so I can remove the speakers when I don't need them. I guess I'll try Radio Shack.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The trailer plug might be a good choice. I used one to install a semi removable bilge pump in the bottom of my Trophy motorboat. The float switch was permanently screwed into the false floor and the pump itself velcroed into the very bottom of the boat (since I didn't want to drill any holes in the hull). I cut the plug part in half and used the polarized half of the plug for the 12v supply to the pump, and the non-polarized part for the float switch. That way I could remove the bilge pump half of the plug when storing the pump, but leave the float switch half of the plug in place.

The trailer plugs are very versatile, waterproof (if you need that), and easy to find at the auto parts store.

Edited by - TakeFive on 03/26/2013 09:38:52

Sloop Smitten
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1181 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2013 : 09:25:22

Bruce,
Next year, if you want to needlessly avoid changing the bottom end oil, you can verify its condition and replace as needed. If the engine has not been run in a couple of weeks any water in the oil will separate. Since oil floats on water the water will settle to the bottom of the chamber. If you take out the bottom screw you can verify if water or oil drips out. If its water then change out the oil and fix the leaky seal. If its oil you can replace the bottom plug and top off the reservoir using the top screw. Since lower end oil does not run under a high temperature it should be able to last more than a season. Much like the rear end fluid in a car. Of course the lower end oil is relatively inexpensive but as you stated it seems unecessary to replace old oil that looks as good as new.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5430 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 : 20:35:47

Thanks for the tip. Will try opening the bottom screw first next year.

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

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531 Posts

Response Posted - 03/30/2013 : 06:57:30

Changing the oil is not a project I look forward to. I keep the boat in the water and there's just no easy way to change the oil while the motor is hanging off the stern.

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Voyager
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5430 Posts

Response Posted - 03/30/2013 : 08:10:14

Agreed - to remove my 100#+ engine from the transom mount while in the water I need a helper. Once the boat is on the hard it's a lot easier to manage. I can't imagine how you could safely change the oil with it in the water.
On a calm day can you back the boat into the corner between the main dock and the finger? You and a helper could lift the engine onto the dock where you could safely change it.
You could also do a short haul to clean the bottom and change the oil. Of course that'll cost you a buck and a half.

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

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Response Posted - 03/30/2013 : 17:40:07

Yeah, that 100# motor is just too much for this old man. I need a bottom job anyway, it's been 2 years. Guess I'll haul out and paint, do the oil change and check the engine. Gudgeons have a lot of play, maybe it's time to replace them also while it's out.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 03/30/2013 : 18:52:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tradewind
 Yeah, that 100# motor is just too much for this old man. I need a bottom job anyway, it's been 2 years. Guess I'll haul out and paint, do the oil change and check the engine. Gudgeons have a lot of play, maybe it's time to replace them also while it's out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Comment applies to 1997+ C250s only:

I have a 15hp Honda, so it's really heavy. (Actually it's identical weight to the 9.9 HP of the same vintage.) When I need to remove or hoist my motor, I lash my mainsheet tackle to the aft-most perch seat stanchion on one end, and the lifting handle on the other hand. It still takes an second person to keep it steady and keep it from scraping the transom on the way down/up, but it does keep the task very manageable and virtually guarantees that nobody will throw out their back or damage the motor.

I have only done this on the hard, but I can imagine if you back your boat into the slip it could help make the task easier and virtually guarantee that the motor would not end up in the drink.

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