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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Mast base plate removal and reinstallation		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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ftworthsailor
Captain

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USA
279 Posts
Initially Posted - 03/28/2013 :  19:04:06  Show Profile  Visit ftworthsailor's Homepage
I was a little surprised to find that the mast base plate is bolted down with stainless LAG bolts and some high strength sealant.

Is there a better way to reinstall this plate under the mast step plate, that might be a bit more secure? I am installing a Halyard accessory plate underneath the Mast plate and would like to make sure it is installed securely. Here is a picture of my new halyard accessory plate:


I like this plate because it has tangs on all sides. The plate offered by CD only has them on the sides, however they are predrilled. I purchased this one from Garhauser at http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68

Catalina 25, Hull #779, Built 1978, FK/SR "Miss Natalie"

Catalina 25, Hull #971, Built 1979, SK/SR,"Sea Legs"

"if we get lost, we'll just pull in somewhere and ask directions."
Edited by - ftworthsailor on 03/29/2013 07:34:17

awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts
Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  21:19:15  Show Profile
It shouldn't be held down with lag bolts. The one on our 1984 C-25 was held in place with two machine bolts that penetrated the deck and were accessible in the cabin below. If your boat really does have lag bolts then I'd switch to the machine screws.

I bedded it with Lifecaulk, and it seemed to have something similar earlier. You don't need an adhesive.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  22:22:44  Show Profile
Not only "don't need", but don't want adhesive. The step is loaded in compression with a modest sheer component. Lags probably meet the actual load requirements, but they can't be tightened after the mast is loaded like a machine screw nor can they be properly bedded. Change them out. Also, have fun drilling the holes in the stainless. Use a lot of cutting oil to keep it clean and cool and several bits of each size as you work up to the finished diameter, especially the smallest for pilot holes
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hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  04:20:42  Show Profile
In my boat the lag bolts go into the 4" X 4" compression post that transfers the load to the keel. I resealed mine last spring. Not sure how I could get machine screws in there. I would drill the plate to match the existing hole location and inspect the wood for signs of any damage due to water intrusion.
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  04:34:17  Show Profile
Mine has machine bolts/screws with nuts.. two just aft of the compression post and two forward of the bulkhead. You can see one of them to the left in this shot. (looking back from the front cabin )
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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  09:55:12  Show Profile
My 1984 matched Ray's boat. Not too surprising since they are 200 serial numbers away from each other.

To drill stainless use sharp cobalt bits, lots of cutting fluid, lots of pressure, and a low cutting speed. Every revolution of the bit needs to make a chip or you will work harden the stainless and make it as hard as the drill bit (then you just get a dull drill bit). Doing it on a drill press or milling machine is better, but a hand drill used properly works well too. I drilled out a similar mast base on my dock.

Catalina Direct sells a mast base plate with holes that are sort of in the right place (they vary boat to boat).
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  11:19:35  Show Profile
Speaking of mast plates - I have one (already drilled) and a tabernacle for sale.
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ftworthsailor
Captain

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USA
279 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  19:49:31  Show Profile  Visit ftworthsailor's Homepage
I added the halyard accessory plate today. I took about 15 minutes to pull the 4 lag bolts that were holding the mast plate. about an hour to tap and drill the 4 holes needed in the stainless steel plate, and another 15 minutes to reinstrall it using 5200 Marine sealant and adhesive. Looks good...
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ftworthsailor
Captain

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USA
279 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  19:51:29  Show Profile  Visit ftworthsailor's Homepage
Derek, How much? send me a pic or post here.
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rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts
Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  20:30:34  Show Profile
I know newer Catalina Yachts are through bolted at least in two spots, but lag bolts are nice as they pull through, should your mast-stepping skills ever fail. Easy repair to just as strong as before replacing pulled lag bolts using flexible epoxies.

But since you used 5200, a mast-step mishap will just turtle your yacht :) Razzing you re: 5200 is wrong for topsides and please don't get that urge to use up the rest of the tube's week long lifespan on anything else than permanent non flexing, preferably below waterline, applications. Polysulfide (with all its stink and long cure time) was the correct answer.
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts
Response Posted - 03/30/2013 :  08:53:59  Show Profile
Roy, I e-m you from the forum. Let me know if you get it.
Edited by - Derek Crawford on 04/02/2013 14:30:56
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts
Response Posted - 04/01/2013 :  10:34:04  Show Profile
<< I added the halyard accessory plate today >>

Looks good.. I got carried away with the boatlife and mine does not look that good but I hope it will not leak. That's nice having the for and aft tangs.
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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts
Response Posted - 04/01/2013 :  12:06:15  Show Profile
another idea: So I would like to put my wiring through this same baseplate. My concern is when lowering or raising the mast that I will shear the wires off. Anyone else seen/done this? That would take care of the pesky connectors and clean up the mast area some.
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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts
Response Posted - 04/01/2013 :  13:50:06  Show Profile
PO of my boat had wires coming thru underneath mast. Discovered the hard way long time ago that I cannot drop mast forward without shearing the wires. However, dropping the mast aft works okay for me.
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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts
Response Posted - 04/01/2013 :  14:26:25  Show Profile
cool, PZell: Do you have any type of cutout on the mast for wire clearance? Perhaps it is only in that one direction. Based on your response, I may go for it.
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts
Response Posted - 04/02/2013 :  13:23:26  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
Chiming in late - I hold mine in place by storing a 28' long, heavy aluminium mast on top of it. That seems to keep it from moving ;o)

Really, the plate doesn't take any load at all, except the redirect from the pulleys. The weight of the mast helps hold it in place. Ours was also screded down with a couple screws, and it has never moved.
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts
Response Posted - 04/03/2013 :  04:50:39  Show Profile
<< doesn't take any load at all >>

Lateral load from the mast, as it bends from side to side, fore and aft.
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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts
Response Posted - 04/03/2013 :  12:23:39  Show Profile
I am just going by memory, but the wires must come through deck a bit more forward so that they clear when back of mast cants forward as it's dropped aft. I think you will have to have the mast down and then eyeball and measure and somehow do a trial to be sure the area you select the wires to come through will not be sheared when the mast drops. Each boat might be slightly different.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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