Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Ron, I built my own. I have a neighbor who used a nicely overbuilt version of a gin-pole. The long and the short of it is there are 2 ways... a Gin Pole, or an A-Frame. MacGregor owners (and Seafarer) have had a factory Gin pole arrangement for years.
I have pictures of what I've used.
Basically I took 3 2x4x8s.. and bolted them with 5/16x5" high grade bolts on the corner/bottom. Then I put a padeye/bolt at the top... I run line from the padeye at the top, down to the bow cleats. On the mast side I run the mainsheet 4:1 purchase (4:1 is required, 3:1 isn't enough). You need a pretty long mainsheet line.
I connect the mainsheet 4:1 to the spin ring.
The critical part is to raise the aft end of the mast. it needs to be at least 6 feet high, and the other critical part, is the end of the mast has to be supported PAST the stern... As the tipping point is RIGHT at the stern (as are the spreaders). The good news is the Capri 25 has a fixed stern rail, and there is space between the rudder and the stern that you can wedge a 2.4. Place your 2x4s so that they are side by side, not horizontal (2x4s have very little strength horizontal) for this part... I put a huge bolt (threaded pipe I think) through the top, and slid a piece of PVC on the top, leaving a LARGE WIDE goal-post type affair at the top to support the mast... the sides of the goal-post have to be high, because when you slide the mast back, shrouds and stuff like to hang up on everything... you want them "free" and clear, and not pinched.
If you do this, then you raise the aft end FIRST. Then you slide the mast back to the tabernacle. Then you put the pin in... then you setup your bow line to the A-frame Then you put the mainsheet purchase on the spin ring, and the top of the A-Frame Sheet in (as quickly as reasonable, with your back to the stern, pulling down toward you, you should be able to raise the mast and steer (the mast may flop side to side some) with your other hand.
and
When you secure the A-Frame, secure it to the stanchions
Once up you have something that you can literally pull forward, to put the pin in.
Note that my A-Frame is vertical, and well forward of the normal standing height of the mast...
With tension on the mast pulling it forward HARD, you can put the forestay pin in, at your leisure.
There was a company in Australia or New Zealand advertising a unit - but the price was probably more than the average 25' sailboat owner would be willing to pay.
Seeking a pre-engineered product is a smart approach - I have hours of design and fabrication in mine and experienced a back-to-the-drawing board moment over the Memorial Day weekend
Thank you all for your suggestions. It is hard to believe that the 2x4s are strong enough to take the load. My crew rick and I are going to try to contruct and A frame. Some suggestions on Youtube indicate that they used the mainsheet pulleys and wheels to lower and raise the mast. Anyway wish me luck.
The load is a point load at the top for the A-frame or even a gin pole (rather on the gin pole its always 90 degrees to the mast)... it's straight down... as long as you can distribute the load at the corners (large enough diameter bolts, but not so large as to compromise the wood)... you've basically created a truss. I forget my math on this from mech eng... but I'd bet the load it could handle is well over 1000lbs (straight down only). But more importantly once the angle is greater than say 15degrees on the mast, the lifting initial pull is significantly less.
Hey SAFETY FIRST! Have an extra set of hands, to hand over hand it (or 2 sets)... in case the rig gives, nobody gets hurt... .MMMMMMM K?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by shnool</i> <br />. . . have an extra set of hands, to hand over hand it (or 2 sets)... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">One disadvantage of the gin pole is it doesn't keep the mast from swaying port to starboard. We pick a very level spot in the parking lot. We need three sets of hands. One to keep the mast from swaying, one holding the furler off at an angle and one sheeter. We have a tall rig - not only is it 2' longer + a thicker extrusion - a different animal from the standard rig. We also connect both halyards to the block and tackle (in case one should fail.) If something suddenly goes cattywampus - be prepared to let the rigging go and fall where it may.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />DavyJ's A-frame made from 1" conduit is VERY easy to make, and his system works quite well. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I agree. Took me less than an hour to assemble and cost less than $25. I raised and lowered my most solo with a 10 knot direct crosswind in the water and had no problems going down or up.
One trick to reduce the chances the mast will swing from side to side while lowering is to get the mast over the "hump" and tilted back just slightly. Wait for a lull in the wind and waves and then lower very quickly to a point where you can grab the mast and guide it into the mast support at the back of the boat.
Once over the "hump" and ready to lower it took me maybe 5 - 7 seconds to get the mast down to a point where I could control the side to side motion.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.