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Aft Boom Sheaves

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Tahoe Cruiser
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/28/2013 : 22:32:17

So I was looking at my rear boom sheaves and noticed one is missing some of its side walls. I also noticed the starboard side is more narrow than the port side sheave. I use the two outboard sheaves for my 1st and 2nd clew reefing lines. I want to replace the sheaves but I am not sure if the catalina direct ones are the correct ones. The description said it is for the inner forward sheaves. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1621&ParentCat=408 will these work for the aft end boom sheaves as well? Might as well replace the gooseneck ones as well while I am at it.

1998 250 WK/TR #355 "Trail Break"
Lake Tahoe California

Edited by - Tahoe Cruiser on 09/28/2013 22:33:41

britinusa
Web Editor

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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2013 : 04:47:38

Looked at ours, 2005 model. The sheaves are ok, but we do regularly have an issue with the lines coming off the sheaves when there is no tension on the lines.

The sheaves they show look nothing like the aft end boom sheaves on ours.

Having purchased many times from CD, I can confirm that they have always responded to phone calls and emails. Might be worth a call.

Paul

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2013 : 04:49:12

On the earlier models the starboard sheave was narrower to use smaller line for a topping lift. If it is the one broken, use of a larger line may have stressed it.

If there is enough space, exchange it for a larger width if not using for a topping lift. If using for a topping lift, the line doesn't need to be large.

IIRC, the forward sheaves were all the same width with the only narrow being the aft starboard sheave.

While having things disassembled, if you have found the outhaul purchase inadequate, you might wish to consider doubling from 2:1 to 4:1.

http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/sailing/outhaul.html

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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2013 : 07:24:34

I use [url="http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RONSTAN-Sheave-4FRW8?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-BTM_BTB05209020&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2"]these from Grainger[/url] for the two. I use them for 1st reef and topping lift:

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At the time I replaced my original sheaves a couple years ago, I was also having a hard time finding an exact replacement from all the normal sources (CD, WM, etc.). The Grainger ones (made by Ronstan) were the closest I could find to an exact match, and the price was good.

I think that my original sheaves were both the same width. But my owners manual calls for 5/16" Dacron on the topping lift. Many boats use smaller than this, and seem to be outfitted with narrower sheaves to match. At some point I will probably downsize my topping lift line, but plan to keep the same sheave.

As for the problem of jumping sheaves, the best thing you can do is make sure you have a good divider. My boat came with a grey plastic one that had chipped away over the years and was not performing its function, so I replaced it with a clear acrylic one that I made myself. This 3 year old pic shows the divider, alongside the original sheaves and original lines (which are thinner than my new topping lift line):

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Edited by - TakeFive on 09/29/2013 09:29:01

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2013 : 10:01:35

That looks like a good solution to solve the lines jumping ship

Paul

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Tahoe Cruiser
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 09/30/2013 : 20:51:39

Thanks for the info gents. I am going to measure the space and see if I can get a bigger sheave in there. I do not mess with my out haul so I will just let that be for now. Might deal with it when I get a new loose foot sail someday.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.