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Tuning Fore and Aft

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skol
Deckhand

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Cayman Island
7 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/10/2003 : 22:59:19

I recently had to replace the cup on the factory provided jib furler. To do so, I removed the fore stay, unscrewed the lower end of the turnbuckle did what I needed to do to the furler cup then replaced the lower section of the turnbuckle (the screw). After much tightening and loosening the stay, I was finally able to reattach it to the chain plate. Now, the rear stay has a lot of slack. I am sure that I need to tighten the fore stay but cannot seem to get to the turnbuckle to do so, as it is “behind” the drum of the furler.

Hopefully I am missing the obvious, can some help? How do I get to the turnbuckle?

I also have read where adjusting the top of the mast forward will help with weather helm…this sounds good to me.

Many thanks!

Lee
SKOL
K250 #414
Cayman Islands

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2003 : 08:13:16

Lee,

The upper section (drum) of the furler will release from the luff by removing the pin on that assembly (not the forestay pin). Doing so allows it to be slid up the luff exposing the turnbuckle. The T bolt comes up through the nylon or ball bearing and exposes its threads to the turnbuckle. You didn't say however if you replaced the bearing which may either be nylon or ball. If it is nylon and you replaced it, was the old one counterbored to allow exposing more threads on the T bolt and giving the turnbuckle more range?

What I mean by counterbored is that the nylon bearings hole is the diameter of the T bolt. The turnbuckle barrel is considerably larger and the bearing can be counterbored up to half its height to allow the barrel to protrude within the bearing from the top. This gains a good bit of adjustment on the headstay.

If your furler was upgraded to the ball bearing, then it is all ready counterbored for the barrel of the turnbuckle.

BTW, be sure to replace the cotter pins in the T Bolt and forestay tang once the barrel is adjusted to the desired position. To leave them out is to invite disaster as the drum can spin the turnbuckle and release the stay.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
R&R N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

Edited by - arlyn stewart on 02/11/2003 08:49:30

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Bryan Beamer
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1038 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2003 : 09:52:49

Lee,

This is the method I use.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> A good way to get to the turnbuckle inside the drum. Loosen the furling line running to the cockpit. Lift the drum out of the stainless housing take a line about 2' long with a bowline tied at each end rap the line around the drum thru one of the loops so the line will tighten on it self as pressure is applied hook the other bowline loop to the unused jib halyard pull up on the jib halyard and cleat it off. This will raise the drum about a 1" above the turnbuckle giving you plenty of room to work and 2 hands free.

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Bryan Beamer
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc23b3127cce9462f2858f2b0000001010" border=0>
Daylight Again
C250wk #495

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ssteakley
Captain

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USA
467 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2003 : 12:21:35

Arlyn,
thanks for the tip on counter sinking the turnbuckle into the Nylon Bearing...I could use a few extra turns up there!,
Steve Steakley

Edited by - on

skol
Deckhand

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Cayman Island
7 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2003 : 21:39:51

Thank you for the feedback. It is very much appreciated.

Lee

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.