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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Bulkhead Removal?

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Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/25/2014 : 13:45:11

The new boat is gutted of everything that didn't require a tool to get out in preparation of a complete clean and teak refinish, not to mention the re-bedding of some hardware. Since I am not in a rush to get this thing done I'd like to remove as much of the wood as possible and refinish in the garage - I don't plan on removing any wood with dowels covering the screw heads (although I would consider it).

Would I be crazy to even consider removing the bulkheads to refinish in the garage as well?

Kyle
'86 SR/SK/Dinette #5284 "Anodyne"
In the barn where we found her...

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1768 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2014 : 15:06:31

Hi Kyle,

Before you go through all the work of removing the bulkheads, you might try some Howard Restor-A-Finish on them:

http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php

I have used a lot of it with great results, and others on the Forum use it, too. "Golden oak" is the shade I use.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

rrick
Captain

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USA
261 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2014 : 16:11:33

I use this bit with the ratchet brace to cut out bungs with very good luck. I think they are sold for electricians.

Edited by - on

sailorbaz
1st Mate

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Australia
26 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2014 : 18:54:19

Hi Kyle,
I did the same as you at the end of last year. I took all the wood out including the forward bulkheads. I left the main bulkheads in place as the chain plates didn't leak and I didn't want to create a problem there! I took the steps out and all the galley units. I even took out the strips that cover the hull/deck joint as I wanted to do some rewiring and ran the new wires behind. I took everything home to the garage, sanded down outside, wiped over with meths and varnished with International satin - 7 coats.
It looks great.
Sailorbaz

Edited by - on

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 05:30:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Buzz Maring
 
Before you go through all the work of removing the bulkheads, you might try some Howard Restor-A-Finish on them:
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I know removing the wood can be a hassle but I like the ease of working it on a bench rather than in a hot boat and I don't have to worry about masking and slopping. Any photos of the light oak finish?

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sailorbaz
 
...I took all the wood out including the forward bulkheads.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Was that a "simply remove the screws" process?

Would you have any photos, as well?

Edited by - on

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 05:33:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by rrick
 I use this bit with the ratchet brace to cut out bungs with very good luck. I think they are sold for electricians.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I am stopping just short of removing any wood with bungs but only because I haven't dealt with that before. I suppose now is a good a time as any to learn! Should I start on the exterior handrails? I'm guessing tap in new bungs, sand smooth and finish?

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5368 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 07:05:53

Yes. The teak eyebrows and the bridge threshold have bungs. The pieces are easy to remove once you get the bungs and screws out provided the PO didn't use 5200 to bed them in place.

Edited by - Voyager on 05/26/2014 07:09:39

oldragbaggers
1st Mate

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USA
47 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 07:46:30

We are in the process of doing the same, removing all wood from the boat inside and out to refinish at home. I agree with you, working at home on a nice flat surface and having access to all my tools, my bathroom, patio chairs (for a break when I need it) and refrigerator, makes the task a lot more pleasant. I also plan to paint the interior of our boat so having it stripped down to an empty fiberglass shell will make that job a lot easier, faster and more pleasant (and will save a fortune in blue tape.)

Once our mast comes down we will also be removing the main bulkheads. Our chainplates leaked at one time and apparently there was damage to the port bulkhead. Someone did a really bad repair with epoxy putty. It looks awful. Our forward bulkheads had some delamination and rot at the bottom as well. Because of the repairs we will need to make, the bulkheads themselves (but not the trim) will be painted white. I had thought about cutting new ones, but the price of good teak faced ply changed my mind for me. White paint is a lot more economical. The rest of the interior wood will be varnished bright.

I think some of our exterior wood may have to be replaced, but I will withhold that verdict until I actually get it home. Some pieces are cracked but If I can get them glued up satisfactorily them I will varnish them and reinstall. Fortunately the crib boards are in good shape. I know they are awfully expensive.

My poor old boat really needs a lot of love.

Becky

Edited by - oldragbaggers on 05/26/2014 07:51:29

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 08:47:44

The novice sailor questions are starting to pile up....

My list is growing longer as I start removing items and taking inventory (amazing where the mud daubers find to build nests).

Through hulls and valves - is there a good source for bronze through hulls or am I wasting my time? I really don't want plastic if I can help it. What about the valves, can they stay plastic? Should I replace the deck pipes for the waste and fresh water with stainless or are the factory units durable enough to simply re-bed and keep using?

The fresh water tank has growth inside. Is there a sure-fire way to clean and disinfect or should I replace? I plan to replace all the hoses in the fresh water system. I don't imagine we'll be using it for drinking but surely it will end up getting ingested in limited quantities.

Below is a photo of the waste tank and plumbing. There is a pump and section of garden hose with a connection to attach to the pump. Is this an addition or the factory setup? I'm used to RV's so pumping out is a new experience to me.

Is there a reputable on-line source for all the generic type stuff we'll be needing? I'm familiar with Catalina Direct but they don't offer bronze items and I'm thinking they may be a bit "spendier" than other suppliers.

Edit:
The board behind the head running between the two bulkheads has delaminated at the bottom due to a leaking waste water deck pipe in need of re-bedding, would it be best to try to recreate this piece or are they available on-line?

Edited by - Kper on 05/26/2014 08:56:04

awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 09:12:56

Fisheries Supply (http://fisheriessupply.com), Defender (http://defender.com) and West Marine are all good online suppliers of small parts.

Groco makes bronze through hulls that you can get at Fisheries Supply and probably the other two places as well.

I added a cleanout port (using a 6" or 8" deck plate) to the top of my water tank and was able to give it a very good cleaning. It came out of the boat fairly easily on my Catalina 25.

I agree with you that Catalina Direct is expensive on items that aren't specific to Catalina boats.

Edited by - on

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 10:00:39

There is an 8" access cover on the original fresh water tank. What's best to use to disinfect... a bleach solution?

Thank you for the links!

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 14:16:34

Kyle, If you can reach into tank then I would wipe the interior with a bleach solution. I would then put 5-10 gal of water along with a strong dose of bleach in the tank and go sailing on a rough day. After that pump out the water and refill your tank along with a cup or two of bleach. I always add some bleach to my tank when I fill it and I have never had a mold/mildew problem by doing this. By the way we don't drink water from the faucets!

Edited by - on

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 15:39:23

Thanks, Scott. We've made it a habit to never drink the water from the faucets while RV'ing and we'll carry that forward to the boat, also. I just want to start fresh with the new boat so I may pull the tank when replacing the hoses and do a complete bleach clean then use your recommendation on the first sail. Thank you!

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 15:39:53

I removed the handrails on my '85 without touching the bungs. Each rail had something like four bolts with the heads under bungs--I just removed the nuts below. The other loops were held by screws from below. I lifted the rails off with the bolts intact, refinished, and replaced, with polysulfide bedding.

As you may have discovered, the trim on the sides of the companionway is screwed on--the inside trim hides the screws for the outside pieces. You'll likely find a lot of brown goo under them.

One more detail: Garden hose (or similar) is not the stuff to use for waste lines, either from the head or to the Pumpout fitting. It's permeable and will smell. I recommend the expensive white stuff from Sealand, or equivalent sanitation hose.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/26/2014 15:42:21

sailorbaz
1st Mate

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Australia
26 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 15:45:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sailorbaz
 
...I took all the wood out including the forward bulkheads.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Was that a "simply remove the screws" process?

Would you have any photos, as well?
[/quote]

Hi Kyle,

Yes all the internal wood came out just by removing the screws including the forward bulkheads. The original cup washers under the screws were plated brass and had gone green! I replaced all of them with stainless.
I put the screws for each item in a yoghurt pot and on the label noted where the longer screws went.
I did unscrew the instrument panel but didn't remove it as the wiring was long enough to lay it flat on the galley sink. This panel and also the bulkheads were "finished" with a foam filled brown vinyl 'P' section. The round part was about 1/2" diameter and the vinyl had started to disintegrate giving the appearance of a dead snake losing its skin!
It took a lot of scraping and acetone to remove it.
My boat is an Australian built C25 so maybe the US boats didn't have this, I replaced it with white piping that upholsterers use.
I'm going to the boat on Thursday and will take some photos.
Sailorbaz

Edited by - on

Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2014 : 16:10:37

Wow, this is great stuff. I wish everyone would just stop by for a boat restoration party/BBQ. This is the stuff I was hoping for! Thanks again!

Edited by - on

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