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 Cleating off spinnaker sheets		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts
Initially Posted - 07/07/2014 :  20:13:35  Show Profile
Where did you place your turning blocks before running the sheets to cleats?
Edited by - OJ on 07/07/2014 20:19:53

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts
Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  03:40:30  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
As far aft as possible.
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DavidBuoy
Admiral

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707 Posts
Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  03:46:55  Show Profile
What size line do u guys use? I basically have two sets. 5/16" and 3/8"
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OJ
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  04:26:23  Show Profile
I had a professional rigging company make up all of my spinnaker lines. Halyard is 5/16" with a swivel shackle.
Edited by - OJ on 07/08/2014 04:26:56
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DavidBuoy
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  05:00:39  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by OJ

I had a professional rigging company make up all of my spinnaker lines. Halyard is 5/16" with a swivel shackle.


Both my tack and halyard lines are 5/16", I just wonder if using 3/8" for the sheets might be too heavy. It would certainly be easier on the hands to handle.

Im not trying to steal your thread, just also getting ready to do the first launch and retrieval of my spin.

Also, are you going to be using winches for the sheets. I hear they can be a bear without and are definitely a must.
Edited by - DavidBuoy on 07/08/2014 05:02:35
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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  06:41:38  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Spinnaker sheets, you can expose the core for the last 20 feet or so... it makes it smaller diameter and lighter where it needs to be (and just as strong)... 3/8 would work if it's more comfortable for you to handle them.

I use solid 5/16 for halyard and sheets... at times I feel the 5/16 is too heavy for our mostly light air spinnaker runs... I am symmetric and a Capri 25 though.
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awetmore
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  07:47:17  Show Profile
Measure before you strip the last 20'. If you want to use them in a reach they'll probably need a lot less exposed. I exposed 10' of my spin sheets, but the amount will differ boat to boat.

On my Catalina 25 I had a second set of standup blocks on the genoa track and slid them all the way astern.

On my Pearson 28-2 I have blocks attached with a loop to the stern docking cleats for the spinnaker. This is a low-tech/low-budget solution that works on most boat.
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OJ
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  08:01:34  Show Profile
Speaking of sheets, FWIW, my rigger used "soft shackles" to minimize the weight. He explained that in very light winds they can make the difference between flying the spinnaker or using the outboard.

Interesting to see the lengths people will go to improve, maximize performance.
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OJ
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  08:24:24  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by shnool

As far aft as possible.
Yeah! good one!

One of the challenges I face is on the 89 (and later) they moved the foresail tracks inboard - so the track ends just in front of the coamings.

Good thought Alex, perhaps I could install an eye strap on top of each aft cleat and install swivel blocks.

This spinnaker project has turned out to be a bigger project than I first imagined. All because some guy on a C22 that pops the chute every time we go downwind and he cleans our clock!
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islander
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  09:41:13  Show Profile
Or the base of the pushpit stanchion with a hose clamp so as not to clutter up your cleats?
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OJ
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  11:01:51  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by islander

Or the base of the pushpit stanchion with a hose clamp so as not to clutter up your cleats?


Good idea Scott. I reckon you are referring to the forward most stanchions of the stern pulpit?
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  12:02:03  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
That's essentially where mine are (this is on a C-250). The blocks are attached to the forward, outboard legs of the catbird seats.

One of my sheets is too large for the block (or the block is too small?). It takes a bit of doing to get the line through the block, but once through it runs freely. I think maybe it's just the melted blob at the end. It's usually my friend's 13 year old son who's rigged it, and he struggles on that block, but eventually gets it through. It's on my list of things to replace so the sheets are the same diameter.
Edited by - delliottg on 07/08/2014 12:02:48
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islander
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Response Posted - 07/08/2014 :  15:30:21  Show Profile
quote:
I reckon you are referring to the forward most stanchions of the stern pulpit?

Yep. Not really my idea but this has come up before and I remembered that hose clamping a swivel block to the base of the stanchions was a proven method. You could clamp a 'D' ring there then attach the swivel block to the ring or how ever you think might work better.
Edited by - islander on 07/08/2014 15:34:13
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dmpilc
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4593 Posts
Response Posted - 07/10/2014 :  06:47:39  Show Profile
Put a snap shackle on two single blocks and attach the snap shackle/blocks to each stern cleat for your spinnaker blocks. Very easy to remove for docking.
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