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Reefing the main

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indecentseas
1st Mate

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Canada
67 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/09/2014 : 11:07:49

I'm looking for a 101 on reefing the main.

I've never done it and the reefing line on my boat has been removed.

The good news is I believe all the other hardware is present. I have two pairs of grommets in my sail. There are eyelets on my boom at approximately the spot where the grommets are. One eyelet is to port one to starboard.

I need help choosing a line ( diameter and length?) and setting it up.

All the instructions on rigging I have found assume the reefing line is set up.

I'm guessing I rig as follows:
-stopper knot in the eyelet to rear of boom
-reefing line goes up to the lower of the rear grommets
-reefing line goes forward to grommet at front of sail
-Reefing line goes down to eyelet towards front of boom
-reefing line then gets tied off somewhere on the boom.

Have I got that right? Where should I tie off?

Thanks.

Edited by - on

dasreboot
Admiral

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804 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2014 : 11:13:01

on a two line system. you have the rear line from eyelet trough grommet to block on other side of boom , forward to cleat. front reefing line goes from cleat at base of mast through grommet to cleat on mast at opposite side. if you have a cunningham installed, you can use that as well.

just google two line reefing for pics

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2014 : 11:34:12

I prefer two-line reefing as described above, but a single line can be rigged--just not as you guessed. A single line starts with a stopper knot at the boom, goes up through the reef clew (grommet), down to a cheek block on the boom (slightly aft of the clew), forward on the boom to another block by the gooseneck, up through the reef tack (grommet), and down to a cleat or through hardware that leads it back to a clutch at the cockpit.

What I prefer about two lines is you can fully tension the clew before the tack so the reef tack line doesn't pull the lowest slug out of the mast slot. It also has less friction on each line, due to just one turn through a grommet for each line.

With just four strap-eyes (?) on the boom, I guess somebody reefed with two lines, each with a stopper knot, and tied knots on the other side after pulling the sail down. Cheap, simple, and a bit cumbersome, especially when you're out there with the wind building. Maybe they ran one line as I described, but that would have a lot of friction.

Be aware that any grommets between the reef tack and reef clew are for loosely-tied lines to hold the bundle on the boom. If those lines are at all tight, they can rip out the lightly-reinforced grommets when the sail is loaded. If your sail is loose-footed (no bolt rope in the boom slot), the "cleanup lines" can be snugged down as long as they don't run under the boom.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 07/09/2014 11:56:18

dasreboot
Admiral

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804 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 03:55:23

did a double reef the other day after arthur came through. big mess of sail flopping around. I do not have a loose footed main. has anyone used thin bungie cords for the reefing points so they wont pull the cringles out of the sail when you tie around the boom?

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4038 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 05:26:54

The 3 cringles in the center of the sail should have lines tied in them.If yours doesn't have the lines you can put some in by putting a knot on both sides of the cringle and leaving the ends long enough to loosely tie up the sail. Do not tie these tight. If you do you can rip the little cringles out of the sail when the sail is loaded.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 06:19:44

The parts catalog, under Manuals and Brochures, has a drawing in the jiffy reefing section that might help you visualize the reefing lines setup.

You mention "...the lower of the rear grommets." If your sail has a grommet about 6" above the clew, that is a flattening reef grommet. It is used to flatten the main in higher wind when reefing is not needed or desired (probably used mostly in racing). The reefing grommets are higher up. As for reefing line size, a good quality 1/4" line is sufficient, but 5/16" will be easier on the hands. My rear reefing line began at one rear eyelet on the boom with a stopper knot, went up to the grommet and back down to a turning block on the other side of the boom, then forward to a cleat on the boom about a foot back from the mast. The forward reefing line began with a stopper knot at an eyelet on the mast, went up through the forward reef grommet and down to a cleat on the other side of the mast. Like Scott above, I also had 1/4" lines run through each of the inner reef grommets, tied with a knot on each side of the sail, and enough line hanging down that I could loosely gather up and secure the sail fabric to the boom to reduce flopping in the wind.
Remember, the best time to reef is before you leave the dock. It is a lot easier to shake out a reef on the water if you don't need it than to take one in after you do need it!

Edited by - dmpilc on 07/10/2014 06:25:13

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 06:28:16

I've never used thin bungee cord for the inner reef cringles/grommets, but I expect it would work almost as well. I would select 1/4" bungee cord and tie it off on each side just as if using regular line.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 06:33:33

quote:
Originally posted by Stinkpotter

. . . strap-eyes (?) . . .

eye-straps

Edited by - OJ on 07/10/2014 06:35:32

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 11:11:44

quote:
Originally posted by OJ

quote:
Originally posted by Stinkpotter

. . . strap-eyes (?) . . .
eye-straps

Ya, ya...

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