Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi Guys: sounds like you have covered all kinds of possibilities. When you need to squirt carb cleaner into your float bowl without opening up the carb. just pull the float bowl drain hose bottom out and drain the gas out. Close the fuel intake to carb,put the carb cleaner straw into end of drain hose and with it turned up, spray cleaner until the bowl is now full. Close drain screw and leave cleaner in bowl overnight. Should clean up all lacquer in jets and bowl. Hope this is useful to some of you, Had a great winter fishing the Colorado river in Arizona! Chief
COMPASS ROSE C250WK Tall Mast, Wing keel PORT CHIEF, Bodega Bay Ca. IE,EE,FCC lic #1890
Steve, with a tank connection, two RACOR connections, two connections on the bulb and one at the engine, it's no wonder there's a gas line leak. I tried carb cleaner everywhere I could squirt it without removing the carb but it still quit at idle unless I squeezed the primer bulb. Runs good at running speed.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
...it still quit at idle unless I squeezed the primer bulb. Runs good at running speed.
To me, that says that the line is probably not pressurized for some reason. You pump the bulb and it pressurizes the hose momentarily, until it loses pressure again. It might be that, when it runs at higher speeds, it is able to siphon enough gas to keep it running. I had one that behaved like that, and I pumped the bulb continuously to keep the engine running until I got back to my slip.(Look for cracks in the hose, cracks in the pressure bulb, loose connectors, anyplace where there's a leak. I always replace the crimp-on hose clamps with screw-on hose clamps.)
I agree that the number of connectors you have in the line makes it vulnerable to any tiny leak or loss of pressure.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I never thought of a Cal 25 as looking like a VW Beetle, but both are fun to drive!
The PO named it. I'm thinking about buying a battle flag at the next boat show, with a black VW Beetle with yellow flames coming out of the fenders and doors, and grey smoke coming from the tires.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Found it today! It was the hose connection to the barb on the engine connector. Seems it was hidden under the hose clamp - completely overtightened and cracked through. I loosened the hose clamp and pulled it off. I took my knife and found the rubber material was quite tough. I cut off about 1" and reattached the hose and clamp to the barb. Viola! No more leaks and the engine idles great! I had motored out to the Harbor island this afternoon and then sailed back on a broad reach while the engine idled. Took about 30 minutes to get back and she idled in neutral the entire time. Better than good, and I'm glad I sprayed her with carburetor cleaner. Took the roughness out of the engine.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Hahahahaha! You could say I milked this for all it was worth, but really - it was underneath, you could not see it when you removed the hose and clamp (only showed under compression) and it did not leak gas. Moral of the story as Einstein said: KISS. A simpler explanation is probably right.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.