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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a new Garhauer motor mount in hand and am ready to bolt it onto the vessel. (The engine is a Honda 8hp longshaft)
For those of you who have this mount, and have access to your boats, what is the approximate distance you have from transom (under the lip) to the top of the mount base ? (assuming you're happy with the lash-up)
I was going to mount at the same level as the older aluminum bar mount. (reusing 2 of the holes). Seems about right but... any practical advice would be appreciated.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
I don't have either a Honda 8HP long shaft, or a Garhauer motor mount. I have a Yamaha 9.9HP high thrust extra long shaft motor on a Garelick 20HP mount. However, I'm not one to let that discourage me from trying to answer your question.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
On my 1979 C-25, the top of the motor board is 9-1/2" below the bottom of the aluminum rub rail. That's at the centerline of the motor with the motor mount in its lowest position, boat approx. level on trailer. My motor has a 25" leg (cavitation plate to top of motorboard). In other words, the top of my prop is almost 3' below the rub rail. This geometry gets the prop deep enough under most wave conditions, without coming anywhere near dipping the powerhead.
The only time I've had the prop suck enough air to rev up badly was when running an ocean inlet with tidal current against the wind and 3' to 4' choppy waves. For a short distance at the breakwater, there was a lot of hobby horsing going on.
<b>"For those of you who have this mount...what is the approximate distance you have from transom to the top of the mount base?..."</b>
This would depend on the motor mount travel distance and shaft length of the motor that is being used. You should probably determine the optimum prop depth of your outboard, then install the motor mount so this depth is acheived when the mount is in the down position.
Expanding on Don's reply, the long shaft Honda's cavitation plate is 22" below the top of the mounting board. To minimize cavitation, I suggest putting the anticavitation plate of the motor at least 3" below the static waterline. (With the extra-long shaft, I'd say 6", but with a long shaft, the mounting board would drag in the waves.) That suggests that the top of the mounting board, with the bracket in the down position, should be at most 19" above the waterline. If you feel comfortable putting it lower, fine.
At that level, I'd check for clearance for tilting the motor with the bracket up. There's nothing wrong with blocking the bracket away from the transom a little--in fact, I recommend using at least a 1/2" sheet of Starboard--thicker if you need the clearance--to spread the load on the fiberglass. If you haven't worked with Starboard, it cuts and shapes like wood, if not easier.
My P.O. mounted his new bracket where the old one was, which put the anticavitation plate of the long-shaft Honda right at the waterline--a big mistake. Under way, it squatted a little, but waves would cause lots of screaming. Also, when I walked forward with the motor idling, it would suck air into the cooling intake. Not good. Base your measurements on the waterline, not the rub rail.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
CLAMBEACH I installed a Garhauer mtr mt with a 17 in drop last year. Then hung a 8hp honda high thrust motor long shaft(22"I think) on it. I used the original mounting holes and put a 3/4" plywood back plate on inside. With the motor lowered & going 1/2 throttle the mounting board is just above the water. The board is in the water when going any faster. When I first installed the new motor & mount I could barely pull the motor up, then I met a "MR GARHAUER" at the Annapolis boat show and told him my problem, he said just back off the through bolts a 1/4 turn and that should help, IT DID. The new Garhauer motor mts should lift 70lbs he said. I'm happy with my new toys.
Also last spring I replaced the Sw.keel cable, winch,pivot pin,shoes using the threaded rods trick I learned about here. In addition to the rods I used a bottle jack and a just in case bracket which would keep the keel from tilting sideways.
1st timer who has learned a lot from all who ask and answer. thanks Frank Law "About Time" Cat. 25 sw. keel ,std rig.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...When I first installed the new motor & mount I could barely pull the motor up, then I met a "MR GARHAUER" at the Annapolis boat show and told him my problem, he said just back off the through bolts a 1/4 turn and that should help, IT DID.... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Hi Frank... Was that the bolts through the transom, or the bolts holding the cross-tubes to the transom mounts? If the former, I'm curious about the cause--unless it has to do the the curve of the transom causing the bracket's hinge-points to bind somehow.
Glad it worked...
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Then with the <b>bracket in the down position,</b> find out where the bracket has to sit so that the bottom of the yardstick is about one inche below the waterline. (if you are not sure where this is, the bottom paint is roughly at the waterline area...Compare to where the bottom paint ends on your rudder)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.