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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 fiberglass repair
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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/01/2016 :  11:10:42  Show Profile
I own a Vagabond 14 and the PO had a mishap with the trailer tire/hull. The trailer has no fenders (I am having them added), the boat was loaded cockeyed, and the tire rubbed a good wound into the hull. I bought it anyway as it is a sweet boat!

The damage is approximately the size of my iphone. It does not go through the glass...there is still good material left and seems solid.

Looking for tips on repair...

Please note that while I am very skilled in general, I have never worked with fiberglass and have never even seen it done. I do not own any special tools I may need for laying-up glass.

I do own a box of white Marine Tex. :)

Can I simply spread Marine Tex on there and sand fair? If so, would I be better to do layers or one application?

Would I be better-off laying some glass and gelcoat even though I have no real idea how to do that?

Feeling stumped and want to get it "right."

Dale


1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1998 Catalina 36 mkii
1983 Vagabond 14

dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  11:15:27  Show Profile
Oh! I forgot...

I also hope to install a 4" round deck plate in this dinghy's forward cuddy (so as to install a bow eye).

How on earth do I cut the circle in the glass?

Dale

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1998 Catalina 36 mkii
1983 Vagabond 14
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5932 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  11:54:49  Show Profile
It looks like only the gelcoat was rubbed away. It doesn't look like an appreciable amount of the underlying fiberglass was damaged. I'd just build it up with Marinetex and sand it fair. It looks like the damage is on the underwater part of the hull, so it won't be much of a cosmetic concern. You might be able to cover it with one application, but sometimes when you sand it, you'll find a small depression or uneven spot that needs to be filled. If so, just mix up a small amount and fill it. Marinetex is very easy to work with, and a small second application is no big deal. Don't put on alot more than necessary, with the idea of sanding it down. Try to put on close to the correct amount, because if you put on way too much. it can be a chore to sand it down.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  15:59:32  Show Profile
quote:
How on earth do I cut the circle in the glass?


Carbide Tip Adjustable Circle Cutter
http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-69063.html

Joe Wergers
Utopia
Fleet 7/Oceanside, CA
78 C25 FK/SR #381
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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2016 :  14:50:10  Show Profile
Thanks for the tips! I will get busy in a few weeks...just as soon as I can line up a few peeps to help me lift her off the trailer and flip her over

Oh, yeah...and a trip to harbor freight. :)

Thanks again!

Dale

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1998 Catalina 36 mkii
1983 Vagabond 14
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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  05:36:25  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
I'd be temped to coat it in resin, sand it down, hit it with acetone, and re-gelcoat it. But then I'm no longer a fan of marine tex repairs.

Hole saw, if you order the beckson port repair kit from Catalinadirect they'll rent you the hole saw too.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  09:22:45  Show Profile
I'd also lean toward a hole saw, with a variable-speed drill that you can run fairly slowly so as not to generate too much heat. That adjustable circle-cutter could be tricky to hold just right, and might be better suited to something like sheet metal than a thick, granular material. Just my suspicion...

Dave Bristle
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage before going over to the Dark Side (2007-2025); now departed from Mystic, CT, and boatless for the first time since 1970.
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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  10:58:35  Show Profile
I have to mention the need to use a respirator when cutting or sanding fiberglass. That's because you want to prevent dying of silicosis 10 or 20 years later! I have used a regular house fan blowing the dust away from the hull when sanding the bottom, but inside work requires protecting yourself from contamination of your skin, eyes, and lungs.

The West System has a helpful guide for working with epoxy resin and fiberglass in general, and another guide for fiberglass boat repair.

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay
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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  12:18:50  Show Profile
Are the resin and gelcoat simply products I mix and apply? Seems like it...

And how on earth does one adjust for the eventual thinkness of the final gelcoat so as to have a fair hull? I have seen pics on here of amazing, smooth work, and every time I am like "how did they do that!?!"

Thanks for the tools tips! Does CD mail the rental tool?

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1998 Catalina 36 mkii
1983 Vagabond 14
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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2016 :  07:23:05  Show Profile
Yes, Catalina Direct mails you the circle cutter, and you mail it back when done. It's very convenient and cost-effective.

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay
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