Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My out board occasionally pulls out of the water in choppy conditions. It looks like this is a relatively common problem, and I see this site has a lot of posts about dealing with motor mount issues, which I hope to take care of in the long term.
But in the SHORT TERM, I have two questions
1. What are the immediate effects of the propellor popping out? Will my engine overheat because its water coolant is not circulating properly? If this popout starts happening, do I need to cut the motor, or can I run for any period of time while this problem persists?
2. What measures can I take in the short term to limit this popping out?
1. The outboard is water cooled. No water, no cool. Momentary lifts from the water and interruption of the coolant flow aren't cause for instant disaster, but this is Not A Good Thing.
2. It sounds as though your outboard, like mine, is not an XL shaft (25 to 28 inches from the top of the mounting board to the bottom of the shaft). Mine is a 20" shaft. So, your options are:
a. buy a longer outboard: 2300 - 2800 dollars. There are archived discussions here about manufacturer preferences.
b. buy a longer throw motor mount: 14 or more inches. 150 - 300 dollars. There are also many archived discussions here about favorite mounts.
c. relocate your mount lower on the transom: lots of grunting and sweating, some Marine Tex, new bolts and washers and nuts. 15 dollars or less.
d. move everyone as far back in the cockpit as possible. free.
<i>1. What are the immediate effects of the propellor popping out? Will my engine overheat because its water coolant is not circulating properly? If this popout starts happening, do I need to cut the motor, or can I run for any period of time while this problem persists?</i>
The risks are more due to overrevving the motor and stressing the bracket than overheating the block. I wouldn't recommend it for a day of motoring, but rather for an hour or less heading for shelter.
<i>2. What measures can I take in the short term to limit this popping out?</i>
A Clydesdale in the cockpit...
Maybe not... So, whaddaya got? (Motor & bracket)
You can control the situation to some extent by not bucking the waves head-on. Falling off a little, or better yet going downwind, can reduce the fore-and-aft pitching. However, if you fall off so that the motor is on the windward side, that may lift it a little in a blow--even under bare poles.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
Its good everyone has warned you about overheating. The big point to consider is how long will your water pump last if it is run dry. Most manufacturers warn the pump will be damage if run over a certain speed and a few seconds without water. I have been through some realy bad seas with the same problem 4' chop with high wind and adverse tide. 1) Get some sail up. A deeply reefed main and or small head sail will make a vast improvment in the bucking. It will stabalize the boat and dampen the rocking. 2) Take the waves at a larger angle and try to ride over them rather than bashing head on. 3) Throtle back to idle or as close as you can to a lower engine speed when the sturn starts to rise. 4) Depending on your area (depth) try running closer to shore where the wind and wave action may not have built as much / this also includes using the lee of a point or island to run up behind to make progress home. 5) The mechanical changes are a good idea and if your a good scrounge it wont cost as much as it could. I bought a 19" lift motor mount here on the board for 25$. I referbished it with new teflon busshings from the hardware store. I bought a used long shaft for a lot less than 2400 / 2800. You can find them in very good condition at a reasonable price you just need to do some work looking. Put a post on here asking if anyone has the old tube type stainless steel motormount sitting under their work bench and would they help out a fellow sailor. I did and I did find one.
Here in Puget Sound you can spend hours more on a trip if you dont know how to use the back edies or calmer waters behind land masses.
What about adding a piece of mahogany to the transom that will allow the motor mount to attach slightly below and off the side of the existing transom? Only one bolt (the lower outside one) would be outside the existing transom and the others would thread through the mahogany and the existing transom. ????
Also, what is the ideal depth for the prop when submerged?
It's not the prop -- the cavitation plate should be at least two inches below the surface of the water. The water intake is on the underside of the plate.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...the cavitation plate should be at least two inches below the surface of the water. The water intake is on the underside of the plate. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> I'll go further and say at least 4" if you're dealing with chop that pitches the boat. Actually, the boat will squat somewhat under power and put the plate/prop even lower, which is good. Not all motors have the intakes on the anticavitation plate--my old Honda did, but my new one has it well below that.
BTW, some sail can steady the boat, but if the wind is on the same side as the motor, the motor will tend to lift out.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.