Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello all, I am done grinding all the bottom paint off the hull of my boat. I grinded out some blisters and letting them dry..
Now, most of the hull is the bare white gelcoat and the blisters are going to be repaired with some west system and sillica topped by some barrier coat. Before i apply the antifouling paint should i prime the hull with another product??? an epoxy primer?
I recommend a thorough wipe down with solvent/dewaxer, then 2-3 coats of epoxy barrier coat, then a no-sand primer if you're not around in time to overcoat per the barrier coat's mfr, then whatever type of anti-fouling you like (I like multi-season, ablative co-polymers myself). The barrier coat will prevent any future blistering that may occur if you only apply bottom paint. Happy sailing <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Follow the epoxy instructions carefully. Some epoxies set up with a blush or film that needs to be scrubbed off or lightly sanded between coats. Some can be recoated while still tacky without the above process. Most slow setting hardners don't generate a blush while the faster setting hardeners do.
I did a complete bottom job this spring using West System with the barrier-coat additive #422.
To avoid the amine blush problem I put the second coat on when the first was still tacky, but set up enough to support the second without sagging. I did this through all the coats. After the last coat of epoxy, I did the same thing with the bottom paint. The epoxy barrier-coat was still tacky when I applied the first coat of bottom paint (a modified epoxy-type).
This way I avoided the de-waxing/sanding between each coat and was able to do all the barrier-coats and the first coat of bottom paint in one day. The bottom paint needed to dry over night between coats, otherwise the entire thing would have been done in one day (after weeks of scraping and sanding and grinding and filling and...).
When I repainted the bottom of my Catalina 22 last fall I refinished the cast iron swing keel also. After getting to bare metal and priming with Interlux's etching type of primer I put on 4 coats of the Interlux 2000 barrier coat system. That stuff was pretty easy to work with and hardened like iron. I have to repaint the bottom of my 25 and i am considering the use of the interlux 2000 system as a barrier coat on the whole hull. I have also used the West system epoxy for years for various projects. I am really tired with having to deal with the "amine blush" associated with West. I would consider a non blushing epoxy by another manufacturer if I was to use it as a barrier coat. The 89 model Catalinas were made with a vinylester resin to resist blistering. When I bought my boat I thought that I had a blistering problem. After it dried out on the trailer for a while I realized that they were paint blisters, not gel coat blisters. But I may use a barrier coat anyways just to be sure. I'll decide after sanding. My hats off to anyone doing the nasty bottom job themselves. I just don't trust any of the local marinas to do a proper job. Billy Bob at the local marina just knows about bass boats.
Raka Marine in Florida sells a non blushing slow set epoxy and hardener at real reasonable prices. See www.raka.com. I've used their stuff for years building kayaks and a 12 foot sail boat.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I have to repaint the bottom of my 25 and i am considering the use of the interlux 2000 system as a barrier coat on the whole hull. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I used the Interlux System 2000 (5 coats) (after opening, filling and sanding 300 plus blisters <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>) and their VC17m antifouling paint. Bulletproof combination. I agree with you Frank - I think this is such a tedious process that the average customer couldn't afford what it would cost to do it right, and, the economics may simply not work out either. Good luck.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.