Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm thinking about constructing a fixed mooring for my C25 fin keel. There are a couple of areas near me that offer good shelter and are deep enough at low tide. One spot is about 1/4 of a mile from the house.
Question:
Do you need to get permission from anyone (Coast Guard) before building one of these?
Has anyone done anything like this? I could use some construction tips.
Before moving to osmepneo to The Great Sacandaga Lake I moored her in the Hudson River, north of NYC. We had to contend with tide, current of the river, and 300 boats in a relatively small area.
We required a 250-300 pound mushroom anchor with 20 feet of a grounding chain. This chain was a heavier chain and it was not expected to pulled off the bottom. This grounding chain was connected to a swivel shackle and a 20 foot rising chain was also connected to the shackle. (I'm sorry I couldn't quickly grab hold of the mooring standards and cannot give you chain dimmensions.) the up end of the rising chain was connected to a second swivel shackel and the other end to an "O" ring. 10' painters were connected to the other side of the "O" Ring.
This resulted in a relatively short scoped anchor system which was needed because of the number of boats moored in a relatively small area. You could increase chain lengths and have "better" scope. Any shackle needs to wired closed. It's amazing how these can and do come loose if you aren't there. You also might want to make everything safer in case of a hurrican - when we got them on the Hudson several boats would break loose and go for their own private little trip. Often resulting in substatial damage. The problems always resulted because of equpment that was too small for the conditions - either because the do didn't provide reasonable protection or because the corrosion of the "system" had resulted in weak link - in the chain, or the shackles, or the "O" ring, or the painter.
I know this doesn't help with questions about permissions, but it does provide the general set up.
Good luck!
Don Peet c25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY
I do not know where you are located, but various municipalities have various rules, ranging from none (do as you please) to completely controlled. For a sample mooring, your local library may have a copy of Chapman's, which used to have a section giving complete specs for moorings using mushroom anchors, these specs were developed after the great NE hurricane of '38 for Mamaroneck and other LI Sound areas. In Maine they used to use very large granite rocks with a bar through them. Here in FLA SW they use large flat concrete slabs with a rebar staple inserted, nbecause the mooring sinks only a ways onto limestone, doent sink in as up North. Good Luck, ron srsk #2343 Orion
Check with your local Harbormaster. If there is a mooring plan and required permits, they are the ones usually in charge of it. Sometimes these even specify the kind of tackle required. Also check with the local Coast Guard district office to see if the area is a general anchorage, etc. (Coast Pilots also have this information). Teasel is on a 500# mushroom with 3X mean high water of heavy chain and a lighter, 3/4" nylon pendant. This has held through a couple of smaller hurricanes (Gloria, Bob). I hear really good things about helical moorings that are screwed into the bottom, but I imagine these aren't cheap. Cast iron mushrooms run $1 to $1.50 a pound. Check the bottom first, though, it may not be good holding ground anyway (soft mud, ledge, etc)
Walkure is moored off a beach in Northport (LI) harbor.
THe local town requires that you get a sticker for your boat. You fill out a form telling the kind of sanitation facilities you have (porta-potty) and your name, address and phone number. Then you're set.
I use a 250-lb mushroom anchor. I have 15 feet of 3/8-in. chain on the bottom, and 15 ft. of 1/2-in. chain on the top. Mean high water is about 15 feet. They're connected by a shackle. The swivel is at the top of the chain, which, the guy who drops my mooring insists, is better than putting it between the two chains, even though all the books show the latter arrangement.
Every shackle is secured with those plastic wire ties that you use to bundle wires together. They are very tough, they stop the shackle pins from turning, and they don't degrade in sea water.
The chain at the top goes to something called a sling link, which is a triangular piece of steel. I drove two thimbles around the sling link, then put two eye-splices on the thimbles, and eye splices on the other end of the ropes. I have about 10 feet of mooring line. The float ball I use is the solid type that allows the chain to go through the ball. Connect the sling link to the chain with another shackle.
Be sure to check with the local harbor master to see what the community's requirements are.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.