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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have any pictures and description of how they have added shore power to there C250. I would like to get it right the first time and not drill holes that I don't need. 2003 WK Fraid Knot
Right now its a shorepower to regular three prong residential conversion plug, (see picture West Marine Catalog page 553) and a 50 foot 12 gauge with ground orange extension cord from Home Depot, with a power strip at the other end.......
I guess a permanent installation would be nice, but the parts and pieces are not cheap, so it's not at the top of the list.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d803b3127cce899b5415de690000001610" border=0> The only thing I'd do differently is to drill a smaller hole for it. The directions say a 2 3/4" hole, but it doesn't have to be that big and a smaller hole would have made for a better fit and left more material between the three mounting screws and the large hole. Just measure the inlet and go with that.
Al Maniccia SeaWolf C250WK #698 Marina Del Rey, CA
last summer we bit the bullet and had shore power installed. it is in the same location as al's. until then we did the same thing as oscar. it worked fine for what we needed at the dock. we also had the power strip which gave us outlets on board. we had wanted to be able to stay out for a few days at a time so we also had an inverter and charger installed at the same time. a second battery and a depth finder was also installed. now we can stay out and make coffee watch tv and and run the cabin lights without worring about the battery. it was without a doubt the best thing we have done with this boat.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>stay out and make coffee <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
You mean you no longer take three Maxwell filter pouches put them in boiling water for ten minutes and wait for the mud to settle? You're going to miss it. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
I had shore power installed with a connector in the rear of the starboard cockpit "pocket". This worked very well for wiring to a GFI socket mounted on the ceiling over in front of the aft berth. If I had my druthers, I'd add another socket down on the cabinet below the sink -- providing I could figure a way to get the wiring there. I've run heaters, (yes Oscar!) coffee pots, air conditioning, electric grills/hotplates, battery chargers, and various electric tools off this system with great success. The worst part was the local yard made a friggin mess out of the boat sawing through the fiberglass -- requiring a complete cabin cleaning to get rid of the dust and itchy particles! I since found a good technique to contain dust (my wife's idea!) while doing my own autohelm install. It involves taking a clear polyethelene drum liner, cutting the end off the bag to form a tube, and taping it around the work. Since it's clear, you can use cutting tools inside it and see where you're cutting while containing the nasty fiberglass dust inside the bag.
I'll take a pictures next time I'm at the boat. The "pocket" mounting is nice because it completely hides the connector and you can get away with one that's a bit less heavy duty than the "external" mount displayed above. If you really do the job right, you put in an AC breaker panel along with an automatic battery charger .... maybe one of these days .... too busy enjoying sailing in the meantime! I can't believe all the recent moaning and groaning about Catalina quality. Despite a few minor flaws (such is life and nothing is ever pefect), my C250 is a great boat and I'm very happy with it.
I used a Blue Sea 8032, because my inverter doesn't have a automatic transfer switch. But I replaced my DC panel too, and remounted both of them, so I don't know if the 8032 is a good choice for everybody. Maybe we'll get some more views...
I do not have picture at the present time but I did not go the 30amp route with a big fat yellow cord which is too bulky for this size boat. I went with a much cheaper 20 amp three pronged male power inlet that is housed in the starboard combing pocket and a much cheaperand lighter 20amp power cord. Since most of our marinas use a 30amp twistlock power box,I use a Marinco pigtail adapter to plug my power cord in. The power inlet is connected to a xantrex Truecharge 20 amp Multistage charger that is located under the sink and out of the way of any possible water leaks. I have a Perko battery selector switch and 12vDC Switch Panel Battery Tester/Lighter under the table. I use this lighter to charge my handheld GPS,handheld radio or my cell phone. I have two group 27 batteries in boxes under the V Birth. I have an additional lighter socket mounted under the stock C250 panel in the galley and I use this to power an Igloo electric ice chest which is located in the same position as the standard ice chest. I did not concern myself with AC power because I simple disconnect my power cord, lead it through the companion way and connect it to a power strip. When I don't have shore power available, I charge my batteries off the outboard motor or off a BatterySAVER Plus Pro 5 watt solar panel.
Here is a thread from a shore power topic that took place last year. This is a good simple system that would work for you.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Shore power is great. The only problem with the way the dealers install it is they loop the outlets together with one common GFI outlet. A GFI outlet does not protect you from overloads it protect you from ground faults. Most marinas have a 30-amp 120-volt power supply to plug in the boats. If the dealer does install an in line fuse or breaker it is sized to the wire they run inside the boat. Usually a 20-amp breaker or fuses for #12 wire. This method will short you of 10-amps or 1200-watts of power that you may need one day. If they don't install a breaker or fuses this is the problem you could run into. Inside your boat they run #12 wire if you are running a 1500-watt heater and a 1800-watt double hot plate for cooking, on wiring that is only good for 2400-watts it could cause a problem. The wire will get hot and start to weaken over time and could melt before the breaker on the dock trips that could start a fire. I would recommend installing a small panel in the closet located in the head area. You can drill though the bottom of the closet and get to any location in front of the companionway through the bilge and the bench storage compartments. Run each outlet you install on it's on run of #12 wire from the panel and put it on it's own breaker (20-amp) this will protect the wiring and by plugging in appliances to different individual 20-amp outlets allow you to utilize the 30-amps (3600-watts) of feed coming into you boat. The electrical inlet can be installed forward of the port step and behind the head window this puts the inlet right above the panel. There is a 3" hand hole you can get to the hollow area behind the window. This location keeps the cord feeding the boat in front of the step getting in and out of the cockpit to the dock. Hubbell makes a good stainless threaded inlet any electrical supply house in you area should be able to get Hubbell products. Any small panel will work. Make sure you tie the two buses in the panel together with a small piece of #10 or bigger wire so you can use all the breaker slots. Use common house wiring methods to wire your boat and protect the wire in areas it can be easily damaged. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I finally braved the sweltering heat here in AZ and paid an early morning visit to the marina. Even managed to sail a little. Temp was 107 when I left around 12:30!
Here's the shore power connector at the rear of the starboard "pocket". The smaller covered outlet is a 12V socket.
I don't have any onboard AC devices, so the single outlet has been plenty for what I need. As stated above, the "right" way for onboard AC wiring is through an AC breaker panel.
Oscar, I'm looking for a simple way to utilize the shore power I pay for in my marina slip fees, without hiring a mechanic for a permanent yet $$ fix. What is the part number/s in West Marine catalog you were refering to? I saw a "Reverse Y Adapter" but yelped at the $409.00 price, is that the part you bought and use? Thanks, didn't realize you could go off a shore power plug to regular 12 gauge 3 prong.
Before the wiring I pictured, I used an adapter to an extension cord on a reel that has 4 outlets mounted in the middle of the reel. Plug it in and roll it out through the hatch and you're all set.
The adapter was like West Marine 203901, which has the marina 30A plug on one end and a household style socket for the extension cord on the other end. It's still kind of pricy at ~$60, but much better than $400. I found this adapter sticks out of the marina 30A socket and is exposed to the elements where you plug in the extension cord. If rain was expected, I usually wrapped it in a plastic bag.
On a second look at the West Marine offerings, I must have had the standard adapter, 147470. They say the waterproof ones are like a short shore power cord. You may not need a plastic bag for one of these! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> shore power outlets are protected at 30 amps, with no GFI, <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Any marina that was wired after 1981 is required by the National Electric Code to have GFI protection on all 125-volt 15,20 or 30 circuits. On the 30-amp circuits the breaker controlling the twist lock outlet will be a GFI circuit breaker.
Remember the GFI part of any circuit does NOT protect against overloads, only ground faults.
Thank you Bryan. I got that tid-bit out of the evil empire catalog. No doubt part of the conspiracy to scare me into buying expensive stuff <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>
Al, I bought an inlet similiar to yours and your location is ideal for me as well. Now for the BIG worry. How did you drill the hole for the inlet? I onced braved through the fear and drilled holes for my anchor roller, but going through the side fiberglass is a concern. What tool did you use, did you cut from the outside, and any other tips to make the job successful would be greatly appreciated.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.